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  Mt Everest 2005: Australian Rex Pemberton trying to be the youngest Australian to stand atop Mt Everest: Update

Update 5/02/2005: Hey Guys, An update from Camp 2. Yes camp 2! I have carried all the comms equipment up with me and it will come as high as camp 3. Here is the latest update from my view of the world (and believe me it is a good one at the moment). Enjoy Rex

Monday 2 May 2005: Today is a special update, I have personally managed to lug my laptop up two camp 2. Caroline (my sister) arrived at base camp yesterday which was exciting, she brought with her a USB chip so I was able to back up some of my photos and most importantly my book. I am sure that right now my "toughbook" is the highest computer in the world. So this morning, I came up from Base camp. I am now at camp 2. I will spend a rest day tomorrow here then push as high as I can on the Lhoste face the next day. The goal is to touch the yellow band (a band of rock that sits about 7500m) If I can do that I will be more than ready to try for the summit. I chose to put one more rotation in because, the jet stream looked like it was moving back towards Everest and our Sherpa support had been delayed by two days. So my strategy consists of doing a 4 day rotation, two days up, rest day on the 3rd then on the 4th day go as high as I can get (I will set a turn around time for 12.00pm). On the 5th day I will go back to base camp for 5 days of rest either down the valley or at BC. After those five days I will position myself for a 15th of May summit, weather depending of course.

Sadly we had another team member go home yesterday, Larry. Larry was the expedition joker, he kept everyone laughing but was having trouble with the sheer size of the hill. He was a non-guided climber and very much a respected member of our team. We will miss him but as I said before climbing Mt Everest is not for everyone. One plus side of having two members pull out of the expedition is the fact that we now have another eight oxygen bottles. So rumour has it we may be able to start climbing on oxygen from camp 2, on our summit bid! If this is the case it will greatly conserve our energy for the push from camp 3 to camp 4 and the camp 4 to the summit and back.

I definitely know this is going to be the last rotation now. Partly because I have been through the icefall so many times. I have certainly had my fair share of the suicide popcorn bowl! It is only a matter of time. I did smash my own and team record again getting from base to the top of the icefall in 2 hrs and 40 minutes! That's sherpa time! I am now also feeling good and can sleep at camp 2 which is a good sign. I am ready now, and will be super ready after this rotation. I have never been in the same mindset, it's weird because it is so positive yet, I know the enormity of the task that lies ahead.

Those 2 or 3 days where we are pushing for the summit above camps 2 and 3 will be the hardest of my life, no doubt. But I strongly believe I can do this and it feels right. Like somehow I am connecting with the mountain, I am not battling her; while it is a constant test, and constantly hard, overall I feel ready and prepared to rise to her summit for a short period. May the weather be on our side.

I will write from camp 3 on the 4th. (You may need to excuse the grammar and spelling; I can hardly breathe at 3 let alone type!) It will be a surreal experience! Cheers Rexy.

Update: Hi Everyone, I am now resting but have decided to go on one last rotation to make triple sure my body is ready to rise to Mt Everest's height of 8848m for a short period of time. Here is the latest from Base Camp.

Next Update >>>

Saturday 30th April 2005

Ok I want to thank the girls from CCI pope for their good luck message. As well as Nina, thanks so much you guys. It really makes my day to read such cool messages and they are going to take me to the top of the world.

This morning it is snowing in Base Camp, so I have decided to get all my oxygen gear sorted out for the summit bid. Fitting the regulator (oxygen mask) to your face and making sure your goggles can fit around it without fogging up is of great importance. Both choices of regulators did not fit properly around my face, but I managed to modify my Addidas "Yodi" goggles by sticking a bit of foam to the inside edge enabling my goggle to mesh perfectly with one of the British oxygen masks. They are top of the line goggles, with lenses called the "space lens". They were originally designed by NASA and they are the same lenses used by astronaughts. Well I guess I am a bit like a space man! It certainly feels like it with my down suit, goggles and oxygen mask.

I now nearly feel ready for the summit. I am still a tiny bit apprehensive and was see-sawing as to wither to go and complete yet another rotation. This morning the answer was given to me on a platter. The Sherpa's have been hauling gear to the South Col (camp 4) and due to bad weather they have been delayed for 2 days and are coming back down to base camp. This gives me a window of opportunity, to complete a fourth rotation. This will ensure my body is as ready as it will ever be to try for the summit. On this expedition I do not want to have any maybes, I want everything running perfectly, smoothly like a well oiled machine.

So far I have done everything right in preparation for the summit bid. I think one more rotation will make me both physically and mentally ready for what lies ahead. This morning I told Mark Tucker (our leader), he said it is a good idea, and also gave me a great compliment. He said that I was really using my head, everything I am doing has been good and that if I keep it up he reckons, Rex is going to be standing on the top. I was very pleased with this compliment. It reassured me I was on the right track!

So on Monday I am off, up through the icefall again to camp two. I will then take a rest day there. The next day I will set a turn around time and go as high as I can up the Lhotse face (weather and jet stream depending). I will then descend back to camp 2 and rest that night before descending to base camp the next day. Four days in total. When I reach base I will rest for a day then head down the valley to Pheriche (4200m) for 2 or 3 days. I'll come back up and go for the summit with the first window or summit wave this season. This strategy potentially gives me two attempts. If we don't make it up first go, we may be able to get another shot at the summit in late May.

We all have our life journeys and I strongly believe we learn things from everything we do. I am living my life journey now and while sometimes I question it, I know what I am doing is right for me. I am a dream chaser, and always will be doing crazy far out things. Whether that be in my climbing life or my career. I don't want to follow, I want to lead. In my mind there are no limits to what we can do and love in life. Life is a gift, we should all use it.

Rexy from Everest

Update Rex Pemberton is going to Everest Spring 2005! Stay tuned for more!

Previous Update:

Twenty-year-old Australian Rex Pemberton has a dream. Already an experienced Alpine climber, Rex has set his sights on Mt Everest and hopes to become the youngest Australian to stand atop the world's tallest mountain by summiting in 2005.

By the age of 10 Rex wanted to climb every hill and mountain he could find, by 16 Rex was on an expedition to Bolivia and Peru where he climbed 6,025-meter Mt. Huclca Huclca. In addition he has already climbed on six of the seven continents including famous ascents of Mt. Cook and Mt. Aspiring in New Zealand. He's stood atop Mt. Blanc, the Matterhorn and 14 other 4,000-meter peaks in the European Alps.

If things go according to plan and corporate funding falls into place Rex will lead an expedition to Nepal in the spring of next year. It's not a cheap venture, as any Everest veteran will tell you. Rex, who runs his own development company and works with corporate trainers Peak Times, is looking to raise at least $65,000AU for his expedition. It's a venture that Rex believes will pay big dividends for the Australian corporation that funds his expedition. He expects a lot of interest and publicity during his attempt at the Australian record for youngest Everest summiter.

As he works toward completing his dream Rex continues train and maintains a rigorous schedule of running, gym workouts and stair climbing to keep in top shape for the challenge ahead.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.



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