WE HAVE HAD COMMUNICATION
PROBLEMS IN THE LAST FEW DAYS
ANDALUCIA EVEREST IS STILL AT
ADVANCED BASE CAMP
BUENO AND BLAZQUEZ ARRIVE TO
Katmandu, April 27, 2006
Andalucia Everest Expedition
remains at Advanced Base Camp at 6,400m of altitude, surrounded by more than
300 tents of other expeditions. With their Sherpas Pemba, Mingmar and
Thsering and Carlos Garranzo, they acclimatized for a couple of days at that
altitude before attempting the assaults of the different high altitude camps.
At the intermediate camp (5,800m) and due to the persistent impossibility of
communication, journalist Javier Blázquez and cameraman Daniel Bueno decided
to start their return trip.
It took them a day and a half
to go back to Katmandu, a little calmer after the incidents of the last few
days. After a trip by car to the China-Nepal border and their later flight by
helicopter to the capital of Nepal, after many long hours waiting and the
religious payment in Yuans and rupees in important amounts, Blazquez and Bueno
still hope to get plane tickets for their return in the next two days.
At ABC the conditions are not
good, but the quantity of expeditions, among them a few Spanish, will let us
make alliances. This season there is numerous group from Castilla La Mancha
attempting to assault Everest, and the Basque group of Josu Feijoo, Jose Diego
Esteban, the civil guard, who is going solo and a Catalan group that has just
from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
HUISA AND LOPEZ
REACH ADVANCED BASE CAMP
Bueno go back to Spain because of the bad conditions
Camp, April 26, 2006
morning, due to the bad conditions, and that all the devices fail - satellite,
portables, etc. - and because they are not getting along with the
acclimatization, the four of us decided that Daniel Bueno and Javier Blázquez
should go down to Base Camp, to start their return to Spain from there. Pedro
and I left towards Advanced Base Camp, at 6,450m. The climb was striking and
beautiful, through and endless route of several kilometers, with glacier
stretches on both sides and with slopes and vertical ice formations that
reached up to seven or eight meters.
So, the ascent
has been spectacular, but very hard. We got there very badly and the mountain
sickness is hitting us. It is the first time we sleep so high, so the
mountain sickness is very evident.
Javier and Dani
told us that, once in Base Camp, they hired a car and they went to the town of
Tingri, where they wait for news to go back to Katmandu.
Camp is located on the slopes of Everest. From here the entire ascent route
is seen. It is spectacular and threatening at the same time. 3,000 tents can
be seen on the mountain with groups of climbers that try to ascend. Pedro and
I will be here three days acclimatizing. When we fell Ok, we will proceed to
the assault of Camp 1 to stock it up.
EVEREST EXPEDITION GETS TO INTERMEDIATE CAMP AT 5,800 METERS OF ALTITUDE
Camp, April 25, 2006
After a morning
organizing the shipment on the yaks with almost 800 kilos of material and
assuming the bribe of 400 extra dollars we had to give to the liaison officer,
we started climbing to intermediate camp around 13:00.
has been long, making a difference of altitude of 600 meters and more than 15
kilometers. Some film shots have been made for the documentary. As the hours
passed, Dani was getting weaker and weaker; finally, after seven hours of a
long ascent, we got to intermediate camp at 5,800m.
and Javier Blázquez arrived in bad conditions, so we are planning their
return. Especially because the communication failures, technically
unavoidable and because they have not been able to do their job, along with
the weakness at this altitude, tomorrow we will decide if they go back or
Huisa noted the
professional level shown by both of them "because despite not being mountain
climbers and not being used to spend nights at 20 degrees Celsius below zero,
they have been dodging the inconveniences very professionally. Pedro and I
are now in good physical condition and we hope that tomorrow's journey could
be done without incidents".
COMPLICATIONS IN BASE CAMP
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.