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We learnt this week that IMG
(the company that is organising all our logistics in Nepal) has purchased some
new generation oxygen masks for use by all their climbers this year. These
masks are called TopOut masks and were designed by Ted Atkins in 2003. Ted had
attempted Everest twice without success and believed that improvements could
be made to the masks that are commonly used by climbers. The result was the
TopOut mask and Ted was successful in 2004 in reaching the summit, which he
attributes in part to his new mask. Although they haven't been used much, its
obvious that IMG are impressed with them, otherwise they wouldn't make such a
significant investment in purchasing one for every climber. I recently tried
one and found that the mask is provides a good seal around your face, which is
important to conserve oxygen and prevent your goggles from fogging up, and it
also pools oxygen in a reservoir when you are breathing out, so that more
oxygen is available when you breathe in. IMG will supply us with a choice of
the new mask, and both of the older, but tried and true types (Hornbein and
LSE).
We are really impressed that
IMG have invested in this new mask - it's early days, but to us its an
indication of the levels that they will go to provide all the support possible
for their climbers. Certainly all the feedback from past climbers that we have
spoken to, including people that didn't climb with IMG, but observed their
operations on the mountain has been nothing short of excellent.
I thought I would share with
you a bit about the two Sherpa that Fiona and I are hiring for our climb. Rex
Pemberton (the youngest Australian to climb Everest) climbed with same IMG
unguided program last year, and he hired a Sherpa called Da Sona who is from
Pangboche. Da Sona is extremely experienced having climbed Everest 6 times,
and Rex highly recommended him. We have also hired another Sherpa called
Mingma Ongel who is from Phortse, and is related to Da Sona. Mingma has been
on over ten 8000m expeditions and has summitted Everest from both the North
and South side (we are climbing from the South), and is an assistant
instructor for the Alex Lowe Foundation which teach ice climbing for the
Sherpas in the winter months. We feel very privileged to be able to climb with
these guys and are really looking forward to meeting them and getting to know
them well.
Till next time,
Paul.
Updates
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Millet One
Sport Everest Boot for Spring 2010 has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
collar.
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here. |
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A cold
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here. |
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