Everest 2006: Fi and Paul: Hiked down to Pheriche with Chris and Bridge

Location: Himalayan Lodge, Pheriche
Altitude: 4243m
Local Time: Sunday 9th April, 6pm
Weather: Cloudy and windy, 0C

Hi its Paul here,

Last night we learnt that the route through the icefall would not be complete for about 4 more days and then camp 1 a few days after that, so we decided to hike down the valley with Chris and Bridget. We are at a small town called Pheriche and enjoying the comforts of a lodge for the first time this trip.

Acclimatisation Plans
After talking with our Sherpas, we deliberated about what the best strategy would be for acclimatising so that we're ready for a summit bid sometime from around 8th May onwards. Between now and then we need to make at least two trips up the mountain - one to reach camp 2, and the last to spend a night at camp 3. But there are a lot of other variables to consider.

Although we have now got a small taste for the icefall, many advise that several trips are needed for familiarisation to ensure that this section can be covered with enough speed. On the other hand though, it may be best to minimise the total amount of time spent in the icefall as the upper sections represent some risks out of our control.

Best way to Acclimatise?
In terms of the best way to acclimatise, there are many theories but few conclusions about the best strategy. There seems to be a balance between working hard (aerobically) and getting enough rest. There are also theories about walking high and sleeping low, as well as sleeping high. As well, there are theories about coming down low to consolidate the effects of acclimatisation and improve overall health. But countering this are some fears about health risks associated with staying in lodges and mixing with more people. So, what to do? Maybe coming down to Pheriche now is a good dry run for next month.

Cheers,
Paul Adler.

Updates

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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