Location: Camp 2
Altitude: 6,425m
Local Time: 17:30pm, April 27
Weather: Snowed last night, windy but warm today, --2C
Hi it's Paul here coming to
you from camp 2. We were pretty tired when we arrived, but after a lunch of
rice, cabbage salad, tuna and chappati bread, and then a nap, we are feeling a
bit better. Both of us have mild headaches from the altitude, but this should
pass overnight.
Dasona called his kids in
Kathmandu
Last night Dasona asked if he could use our phone to call his children in
Kathmandu at their boarding school. Of course we said yes, and after a little
mucking around trying to work out the area code and country code for Nepal, we
got through. You could tell Dasona really enjoyed speaking with his kids, and
after he finished the conversation he said, "My kids are happy, I am happy."
Cooking dinner with our
Sherpas
Our Sherpas usually cook dinner in their own tents - they seem to prefer this,
despite many requests from all of us for them to come and cook and eat with
us. Last night with only Fiona and I in Camp 1, Dasona and Mingma said that
they would cook with us, but only after we had finished. When we asked why
they said that they wanted to cook Nak cheese and that it had a very strong
smell. (A Nak is a female Yak.) Dan (see his update from a week ago), said
that when he was in camp 1, he walked past a Sherpa tent where they were
cooking Nak cheese and he nearly vomited. We were glad that the Sherpas
decided to take pity on us and wait until we had finished, although I was very
interested, being a big cheese fan. Well, we finished dinner and Mingma
started cooking. The Nak cheese was in a jar and Mingma opened it, and
immediately there was a lot of coughing in the tent, but it was coming from
Mingma! Pretty soon the smell reached me, and boy is it strong. It's like blue
cheese, but much stronger. Soon we were all coughing in the tent, including
Dasona. They both thought it was extremely funny! Mingma heated the cheese in
a pan, added salt and chilli, and then let it sit. He then made a pancake
batter from flour and started to cook the pancakes. When the pancakes were
ready, the cheese sauce was poured on top. After a while we got used to the
smell and even tried a pancake. Not bad, but I can see why it hasn't taken off
outside of Nepal.
Getting ready for the climb
to camp 2
To make a fast getaway this morning, we got our water ready last night. The
temp was about -10C inside our tent, so it's really important that you take
measures to prevent the water from freezing. We start out with boiling water
in our water bottles, and then we place them either inside our sleeping bags
or between us. This usually works. Sunscreen also freezes at this temperature,
so this is also placed inside your sleeping bag. The socks that we are going
to wear are also inside the bag, so that they are warm in the morning. When we
woke up, we got dressed into out climbing gear; Poly-pro pants, Gortex
overpants, plastic liner socks, thin liner socks, thick socks, long sleeve
tech top, poly-pro top, Gortex jacket, down jacket, climbing harness, poly-pro
gloves, thick outer gloves & a hat. The reason for the unusual layering
(poly-pro not next to skin) is that it gets extremely hot in the Western Cwm,
and we wanted to be able to strip down quickly. Before setting off, we removed
our down jackets, although it was still pretty cold.
The climb to camp 2
We left at about 7am and there had been a lot of wind blown snow, so the track
was almost non-existant. After 15 minutes, Fiona's hands got cold, so we
pulled out some chemical hand warmers and Dasona and I shook them to activate
the heat. Within a few minutes, they were hot, and Fiona's hands were soon
warm. There was a lot of steep technical sections as the route crossed right
over big blocks of ice that have been thrust up by the glacier. There were
also a number of ladders too. Near camp 2 the glacier climbs very slowly
upwards in a long, unbroken snow slope and this seemed to take forever. After
3 and a half hours we reached camp 2, pretty tired.
My throat
I was a bit nervous how I would go today. My throat had been getting so much
better over the past few days, I thought that the cold air could set me right
back. I took a good swig of codeine, and really tried to stop myself from
coughing. Here at camp 2 I feel really good - can breathe fine, no tenderness
around the front or back of my neck. I am really happy! I think the new
antibiotics are working.
Bye for now,
Paul.