Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  Everest 2006: Fi and Paul: Safety thought the icefall


Location: Camp 1
Altitude: 6050m
Local Time: 5pm, 5th May
Weather: Fine at first, then snowy in afternoon

Hi everyone, it's Fiona here,

We've now moved up to Camp 1 for our second acclimatisation rotation. It's a good feeling to be above the icefall. No matter how many times we end up going through it, I don't think I'll ever get used to it.

The Trip Up
We left base camp this morning at around 5:30am - so that we could be through the icefall before the heat of the day hit. It seemed to be just as hard as last time - lots of ups and downs, making it hard to find a rhythm. However, we were pleased to find that we are moving faster now - having reduced our time from around 6 hours to 4.5 hours (although Paul was under the weather last time). This is still not considered especially fast, but is at least about average.

On the way up, my hands started getting very cold - and because we were in a position that did not seem a good place to stop and pull out warmer gloves (given there were big ice structures towering above us), and also because I could see that the sun was going to hit us soon, I foolishly left it until I had dangerously cold hands. Fortunately we found a rest spot and Mingma and Dasona helped me warm them up. Luckily no damage done, but it sure was a good lesson.

Camp 1
We arrived at C1 at around 10am - giving us plenty of time to relax and recover from the climb up. Ironically, with the sun shining on the tents, it gets unbelievably hot - in fact the thermometer on our watches read 45C! We were constantly trying to adjust the tent ventilation to get a breeze blowing through, and then piling snow into a bandana to cool ourselves down. Around mid-afternoon, the clouds came in and the temperature plumetted - leaving us scrambling to close up the tent and put layers of clothes on. We have left our good sleeping bags up at C2 so will be using IMG's tonight - along with a lot of clothes I imagine. At the moment I have 3 sets of thermals on and a down vest and it's only 4pm. It's expect it to be around -12C here tonight - and that's inside the tent!

After we send this off, we'll be heading over to the cooking tent where we'll cook up one of those instant pasta meals and possibly some 2 minute noodles for dinner. Will have to collect some snow for melting water first so we're hoping the weather outside eases off a little. As we're the only ones at C1 at the moment, there'll be plenty of room for cooking.

C1 has Moved
Since we were here last time, our Sherpas have moved the location of this camp. Last time there had recently been a lot of new snowfall and everyone staying at C1 had witnessed several reasonably close avalanches coming off the West shoulder. With this feedback, IMG arranged for the camp to be moved a little further across the valley towards Nuptse. It's not really clear cut whether it's safer or not as there could just as easily by avalanches off Nuptse but most people (including our Sherpas) are happier about its new position.

Mary's Trek
We've heard from Mary that today she hiked to Dugla and is staying there tonight. Yesterday, while on a rest day at Dingboche, she hiked over to Pheriche and attended the daily lecture on altitude sickness put on by the Himalayan Rescue Association. As that altitude (around 4000m) is often where people start having trouble acclimatising, they strongly encourage trekkers to break up their journey and stop overnight at Dugla rather than going straight to Lobuche. This makes it a pretty short day, but there is no hurry for Mary to get here - especially now that we are up the hill again for a few days. We'd much rather her arrive feeling well.

Well, that's all for now. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we plan to head up to C2.

Cheers to all, Fi.

Updates

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
  
CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
  
Headlamps

   Hestra
  
Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
  
Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
  
Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
  
Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2005 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it