Location: Camp 2
Local Time: 20:00, May 24
Weather: Fine, -12C at C4
Hi Everyone, It's Paul here.
Well we are both back down at
C2, tired, but glad to be breathing what to us feels like thick air. The climb
down from C4 took us about 4 hours, and we have sore toes from hitting the
front of our boots. In this update I thought I would share with you the
details of my summit attempts.
My first Summit Attempt
We arrived at C4 at about 11am, and then spent until 8pm resting, drinking,
eating, activating chemical warmers & warming clothes and boots. (Boots are
placed inside the sleeping bag to get them warm.) The wind was steady, but not
too strong, however it did buffet our tent a bit. The decision was made to go
so Fiona left first at about 9:30pm. I followed her at 10:20pm.
The first part of the climb is a 45 degree slope, which steepens gradually
until it becomes almost vertical rock in some places. After a couple of hours
I caught up to Fiona and then two hours later we reached a flat spot called
the balcony where we had a rest, some food and water, and changed oxygen
bottles. Both of us were feeling really good.
Fiona and I then proceeded
along a steep ridge up towards the South Summit. The ridge started off not too
steep, but soon we came to a 30m rock section that was nearly vertical. At
this stage I was getting cold, so unfortunately I had to go ahead of Fiona to
move at a faster pace. Above the wall, there was a more forgiving snow slope
leading up to the South Summit of Everest. I was following behind Dasona and
he was behind Dennis Kellner. The three of us were moving together well.
Suddenly I found it really
hard to keep up with Dennis and Dasona. They could take 10 steps before
stopping for a small rest, whereas after 2 steps, I was totally out of breath.
I found a less steep spot and put my weight on the rope and tried to catch my
breath. After about 10 minutes, my breathing was not so rapid, but something
wasn't right. A few minutes later I checked the bottle which caches oxygen
from the mask and it was empty. Suddenly it dawned on me that I was out of
oxygen. I was at over 8700m, with the South Summit in sight. My first thought
was not to panic and to concentrate on breathing really deeply. And I mean
really deeply. Graduallly I found that no matter how hard I tried to breathe,
I was getting out of breath. I started to feel very drowsy & sleepy and I
would estimate that over 30 minutes elapsed since I noticed a change in my
performance. Fortunately Dasona came back down and hooked me up to his oxygen
bottle. This meant that he had to go without. I was so glad of this gesture,
because I was really going downhill fast. The effect of the oxygen was
dramatic. Within a minute I was feeling much better, although I wouldn't have
been able to stand.
With one oxygen bottle
between two people what where we going to do? Amazingly a very strong IMG
Sherpa called Danaru came down from the summit and he, without a second
thought, gave up his oxygen bottle. To say I was grateful is an
understatement. There wasn't enough oxygen to continue to the summit, but this
was the last thing on mind. I was extremely happy to be alive. At this time
Fiona came along and I wished her good luck and told her she had the summit in
Dasona and I then started walking down. I was a little unsteady on my feet,
but we made it down in a couple of hours. I was very relieved to be back at
the South Col. This felt like safety, even though its still 8000m.
On my way down, moves were already in place to give me a second shot. I didn't
expect this and am very grateful to IMG. Unfortunately, I would have to go
that night as the expedition was drawing to a close. I deliberated about what
to do, but in the end I decided that although I was extremely tired, I would
regret it if I didn't at least try. That day I drank lots of fluids & ate as
much as I could. I welcomed Fiona back from her successful summit & becoming
the 3rd Australian woman to climb Mt Everest. I am so happy for her. Although
tired herself, she helped me get ready that evening. At 10:00pm I stepped
outside my tent and started climbing up. I felt great.....at the start. At
8300m, I started to slow and tire, and it felt different in my legs. I think
they were too fatigued from the previous night/day's exertion. I had a hard
choice to make, push on and perhaps work through this pain and fatigue, or
turn around. Going through my mind was that if I turn around then and if I
want to climb Everest again I am up for another year of training, a two and a
half month long expedition to put you at Camp 4 where you hope the weather for
that night and day will be kind enough to let you climb. On the other hand I
thought that this isn't just some mountain in the Alps, where you can call in
a helicopter rescue at a moments notice; up here you have to be self
sufficient. I mean, no one can carry you down if something bad happens. I had
already cheated death the night before and didn't want to try my luck again. I
felt that I couldn't be confident that I was going to be able to get up and
down safely, so I made the somewhat difficult, but I think the right decision
to turn around and decend while I still could with relative ease.
Lying down here writing this
in camp 2, I still think I made the right decision. Normally I climb faster
than Fiona, but today decending, she was much faster than me, so clearly I am
still not in my normal shape.
The mountain is not going
anywhere and I have really enjoyed the expedition, so the thought of coming
back is not such a bad one. At least I feel I know what it takes to climb this
mountain. I do hope that if or when I do come back, that I can enjoy the
tremendous support that everyone looking at this site has shown us.
To good health,
PS. Heading down to base camp
tomorrow, leaving here at 5am. One more trip to make through the icefall.
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.