Everest 2006: Dead or Alive By Larry Rigsby M.D.

Larry Rigsby MD is an Internal Medicine physician who practices in Chattanooga, TN. He is a Mountaineer and has a great interest in High Altitude Medicine and Physiology. His expeditions include Denali, Everest, Ama Dablam and Moose's tooth.

I was very distressed to read some of the news re climbers left for dead or bypassed on Everest.

Thank God we have climbers such as Dan Mazur, Tap Richards and Doug Tumminello who are willing to assist in rescues, with Dan recently giving up his summit attempt in the process.

As a physician it never ceases to amaze me how many mountaineers esp. guides are all "doctors". They all seem to be up to date on the latest in chemical mountaineering tricks e.g. enhancing supplements, meds etc. Don't get me wrong there are some very knowledgeable individuals, some certified as First Responders. But where are they during these situations? That would be equivalent to a physician not responding to an auto accident or in flight emergency.

I don't think we can say do nothing due to the altitude or terrain in a lot of these cases. Both Dan and Taps rescues were at very high altitude.

Someone can be in extremis or appear moribund but are still salvageable. There have been numerous accounts of individuals who have by all rights appeared dead but have been revived fully especially when they are hypothermic which is very common in this environment. We have a saying in Internal Medicine that you are not dead unless you are warm and dead.

I believe that it is our duty and responsibility as mountaineers to assist our fallen climbers to the best of our ability, even if this aborts our summit attempt. I think we all know what to do i.e. give fluids if possible, warm the individual, give oxygen, consider decadron and call for assistance. I think a golden rule to be taught to all First Responders and capable mountaineers is to #1- First Respond! Thanks, Dr Larry Rigsby

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