Everest 2006 Nepal side: Dirk Stephan Update with big news on the Koreans also

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March 23, 2006 Thame Everest-Summitter Lodge 3800m

Owner is Apa Sherpa, 15-times Everest-Summitter. I am now as high as the highest mountains of Austria, or at the same level than the Hut of Gouter, Montblanc. Last time when I was there I had terrible headache, I ascended painfully the summit the following day. In contrast of today, I feel fine, without headache, no diarrhea. I have been in the mountains now for seven days. Slowly I get accustomed to the altitude, completely released from any obligation or tasks. I eat, sleep, leave from place to place. I use the Ironman-plan for my training, try to realize the required training intensity in walks. Additionally I practice general athletic exercises. If I succeed I meditate, controlling just my breath. In the evening I am reading a Buddhist story book. The principal idea is simple: any kind of desire and connectivity causes pain in its absence. Thus a life without any desire leads to the end of pain. Mgma shows me the monasteries where I undergo that religion together with theory very close. Today there is monks seminar. The young and the young at heart are reading different lyrics, loudly and for hours. After a while somebody provides them with a meal at the place of the readings. In between the reading young monks enter into a snowball fight. The building of Apa Sherpa is a pure museum brimming with hommages and honours. Besides certificates from all over the world I spot an extract from the Süddeutsche Zeitung, a popular German paper. Apa is not often here, a week ago I met him in Kathmandu, a small wiry man with all powers. With his moustache he looked like Sammy Davis Jr., writes the German paper.

A movie team from Korea lodges next to us at the Everest Summitter Lodge. They wait for a long Yak-Trek from Tibet. 120 Yaks have been stucked in the huge 24-hours snowfall three days ago. Tomorrow evening the animals suppose to be changed in Thame. The Yaks shall return to Tibet via Nangpa La Pass. Nepalese animals shall assume their load all the way back to Namche and further. Next Saturday those goods will be offered on Namche's week market. The Koreans return to Kathmandu and will show up again with a Korean expedition. They want to challenge the Lhotse-Shar. Mr. Um is on its way to the last of the 14+2. The Shar is a side summit of the Lotse. I am going to see the team again in the base camp.

Previous Update:  Namche Bazar 4400m

We ascend to the Everest view point. Initially we have to apply for in writing with the military. A huge military camp is literally enthroned above Namche. Unfortunately there is no view to the Everest, since the sky is covered completely. We ascend to the pass to Khumjung, 3900m. Last year I saw the Everest for the first time with my own eyes, but today he is mantled. We return to Namche. In the afternoon it start raining, the first rain for 5 months, thereupon the rain passes into snow. 11.03 It snows continuously for 24 hrs. I help clearing the roof. We are roped with electronic cable....

Previous Update: The ascent to Namche is steep and for me in bad remembrance of last year. I dragged myself painfully to the lodge. This time I literally sprint over the last bridge upon the Dudh-Khosi and ascent all at once up to the Sherpa capital, almost 2.5 hrs without going for broke. Sarab Janba Sherpa, the owner of the lodge recognizes me promptly and offers me a huge cup of milktea without asking. Later I ascend to Syangboch. There is a unhitched airfield for helicopters. To ascend a few 100m and sleep a bit lower helps to acclimatise. I descend to Namche.

to be continued

Dirk Stephan

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