Mt Everest 2006 Nepal side: Dirk Stephan climb up again to Khumjung

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Midday we climb up again to Khumjung. Then I start looking for Pemba Shiri. After scanning Khumjung completely I find him. He doesn't know details but he is the one responsible for the baggage from Shyangboche. When I am back from my trek I know now where to find him. Right after I visit Pasang Shiri. He joined Pemba Shiri as climbing Sherpa last year. He explains that Pemba is still in jail, Mingma Dorje is now in charge. New rumors every day! In the evening Mingma tells me that he plans to be in Lukla, March 27. since a group of Japanese want to be guided to the Everest-View Hotel. Thus I change my plans and return once to Khumjung to manifest my plans then.

We start 7 am. from Khumjung. First of all I navigate to the only water source in the village. I am kindly allowed to jump the queue - my small bottles are quickly filled, while complete Khumjung tries to satisfy their water needs in big canisters. Right after the end of the village a ladder to the sky offsets. A vertical, artful stair of stones was raised in the mountain. My altitude meter shows later an incredible speed of 36m per minute. The path drags along the mountain side and reaches a pass with view to the monastery of Tengboche. Then the path plunges down via frozen snow several 100 meters in altitude down to Portse Tenga/ Dudh Kosi. I have to climb up again steeply to reach after 2hours 40 min Dole at 4050m. There I stop in Mamaste Lodge. The Lodge is quite plain, rooms without lights, looking for toilets lead to a thunderbox (some wood with a small hole) five minutes walk from here. The food must be "delicious" according to the sign in front of the Lodge. And that's it! We use the river to wash our clothes, the only floating water, except the drippy roofs. So does the Lodge, collecting waters from the roof for tea waters. Thus, it tastes a bit unfamiliar. In the afternoon I climb up almost 200 meters in altitude. Returning I hold my feet in the icy river to get my feet comfortably warm for the rest of the day. The evening is getting amusing, the Lodge fills up, Sherpa play cards, an elderly French couple fall asleep while sitting and I make conversation with a German Trekker, who rode per bike from Germany to China last year.

Bye for now
Dirk

March 29th: Sunshine. Through deep snow we ascend again to the Everest view point. The snow kindly envelopes the barbwire of the military camp. Now it looks more peacefully. This time the highest mountain is almost unmantled. Only a flag of clouds generated by the wind of the altitude predict how unobtainable he is. I shot the first picture of the fortune pennies together with the Everest. Through deep snow we ascend to 3900m. The snow is hip-deep and Mgima stays behind.

Dirk Stephan

Dispatch Index

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