Acclimatized Dirk and Klaus are
waiting for the right time for the summit. Yesterday Dirk said the weather was
wonderful, rare wind, almost warm....spring also 5300m high in altitude. But
delays are to be expected since the south summit is not prepared with ropes so
far. So far the route will be prepared earliest 21.5 [His guess].....lot's of
time...what to do to remain motivated??
Just heard from Dirk that he has finalized his second acclimation.
Thereto he had spent the night from 4. to 5. of May in camp III and climbed
down again to BC.
He is now waiting for the next weather window which allows him to keep going
higher and finally summit that mountain.
He is highly motivated and envisages the 11. of May. So keep all you fingers
crossed for a good weather forecast.
Best regard to all of you
Update 5/2/2006: Plans are set up to head to camp 2, next
week to camp 3 and back to base camp for a couple of days rest. Then it gets
down to business.
Greetings from Dirk to all of
you! He spent two nights in camp 1 and one night in camp 2. The next days camp
3 will be established. It seems that Apa Sherpa tries to find and motivate
additional Sherpas, since there a more climbers than Sherpas at the moment. He
feels quite good, except some pain in the back due to spending more than 14
hours in the tent.
Slowly the news seem to
concentrate that the three sherpas were killed by several ice towers in the
moment they have passed the ice fall on their way to camp 2. Five injured
Sherpas arrived safely at the base camp. The spirit on the base camp is hit
rock bottom. Dirk is extremely shock and his thoughts are with their families.
regards from base camp in grief
Yesterday on Good Friday there
was the Puta ceremony which shall plead for the mountain's mercy. However the
weather was very gracious, bright sunshine... We think of the people in
Katmandu which are still in a severe situation.... the base camp is too far to
be affected. I meet the other climbers of the expedition, the No Limit team
which I already learn to appreciate very much. So to say I sprained my ankle
on the bad paths of the base camp and gained the professional help of them.
According to their advices I take anti-inflammatory medicine and simply keep
On Saturday I
start at 6:00 am to challenge the icefall for the first time this year. The
sun is covered by the Everest himself for the first two hours and I walk with
cold feet until the sun heats up the whole valley drastically. There are
less ladders than last year. It takes me three hours to climb up to 6.000 mtrs
and two hours to climb down. I am quite content since I feel much more air in
my lungs than last year, optimism keeps you alive, but I do not dare to make
conclusions to my overall future body conditions in higher altidutes. When
they are about to establish camp 2 I am planning to spend the night in camp 1
to ascent further. After diner I am back in by tent, my ankle feels not bad.
Thanks to the doctors of No Limit.
Happy Eastern to
all of you.
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