Ascent to Mount Everest
Without Oxigen and no Sherpa By Patricio Tisalema from Ecuador
Well after the long staying
while acclimating and doing the deposits, I was finally ready for the last
I felt very well during the
process and never had any high altitude problem, at the beginning I was a
little bit afraid of climbing without Oxygen, specially because everybody said
to me all time that it is crazy. But step by step my confidence increased
when I saw my development, I was always very fast even much faster than the
Sherpas. I also went up to 8200m because I wanted to climb without Oxygen and
it was very helpful to touch that altitude and descent to rest at Base Camp.
I wanted to try a fast ascent
in order to stay as less time as possible at the altitude, then my idea was
to use less camps. And I climbed in this way:
14th May Sunday
Early in the morning I left
the ABC in a straight ascent to C2 7500m. As I already had a deposit there, I
made the Tent and slept till the next day.
15th May Monday
This day I did not want to
leave too early, because I wanted to go straight up to the last Camp before
the sunset and rest some hours before the Summit attempt, so, I left at
midday and got the 8100m at about 5pm, where I decided to make my tent
because I thought it was going to be too late when I got the 8300m.
So after making the tent, I
boiled water and prepared everything for the Ascent, rested a little bit,
woke up, prepared everything and left at midnight.
16th May Tuesday
I left the 8100m at midnight,
that day climbed also some other climbers, I had the same pace as them up to
8550m at the ridge that I got at with the sunrise, here for first time in my
life I felt the effects of altitude, threw up once and then kept the traverse
here is where I found three dead persons, It was very horrifying, I calmed
down and went ahead. I realized the difference of climbing without Oxygen,
because I could see how the others with Oxygen got in front and I slowed down.
It was very hard to climb the first and second Step, specially the last one.
After this I took the last snow ramp, and at its beginning I also found
another deceased. Here I was very exhausted and for first time I used the
fixed ropes, at that time I was alone on the mount because all summited
members with Oxygen already intersected me on their way down. I was also very
worried because of the descent, in my mind there was always the image of the 4
dead, It was a little bit late and I had to climb the last 150m that I think
are the most difficult in the world. It was the most difficult part, my pace
was very slow and I had to do the greatest effort I have ever done. Twice at
8750m and at 8800m I thought, I better do this point my Top and descent strong
enough to my tent.
But at those moments, more
than my physical force, worked the philosophy that took me up there: my
motivation, the compromise I had with all people who where with me in
Ecuador, all people who trust and support me, what I was going to contribute
to my country, my dream of getting to the Top of the world, all these things
took all my will – power to its limits! and I kept fighting till the end.
Finally, extremely exhausted
and with the greatest sense of accomplishment at 1:00 pm I got the Top of the
world! I was completely alone there, tears went out from my eyes, One thousand
thoughts and memories came to my mind, my beginnings as mountaineer, when the
thinking of Everest was a very remote Idea and those things. The most
fascinating moment in my life. I was there!! conquered the Top of the world,
there was nothing else above my feet on the earth. I said thanks to life,
thanks Everest for letting me have the honor of being on its Top, I
philosophized and meditated for some minutes, took some pictures and videos,
then started going down, I knew that it is the most difficult part and that a
little error can finish in the death and there was four dead climbers that
remembered me that the whole way down.
I never stopped, not even to
drink water, I was very afraid of sitting down and lose the conscience and die
up there, finally got the Camp 4 at 8300m where I decided to sleep in a
friend's tent,. Some Sherpas recommended me to use Oxygen to sleep, I knew I
was finished physically, but I felt that my breathing system was working very
well. Besides I was decided not to use Oxygen at all, so I slept without
oxygen and had no problem at all.
17th May Wednesday
On the next day, when I
opened my eyes, it was hard to start again but after some efforts I woke up,
wore my stuff, took my things and started descending, I took all my deposits
from all the camps and at night very tired I got the ABC.
Once there I realized that I
was the first climber without Oxygen this year and felt very happy of
descending without any frostbitten member and completely healthy.
After a short resting I
descend to base camp, then back to Kathmandu and finally back to Quito where I
had a big reception and could finally rest.
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