Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
Banners Ads
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace


   Mailing List

News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Seven Summits
   Readers Guide

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement






  Ascent to Mount Everest Without Oxygen and no Sherpa By Patricio Tisalema from Ecuador: I found three dead persons, It was very horrifying


Ascent to Mount Everest Without Oxigen and no Sherpa By Patricio Tisalema from Ecuador

Well after the long staying while acclimating and doing the deposits, I was finally ready for the last attack.

I felt very well during the process and never had any high altitude problem, at the beginning I was a little bit afraid of climbing without Oxygen, specially because everybody said to me all time  that it is crazy. But step by step my confidence increased when I saw my development, I was always very fast even much faster than the Sherpas. I also went up to 8200m because I wanted to climb without Oxygen and it was very helpful to touch that altitude and descent to rest at Base Camp. 

I wanted to try a fast ascent in order to stay as less time as possible at the altitude, then  my idea was to use less camps. And I climbed in this way:

14th May Sunday

Early in the morning I left the ABC  in a straight ascent to C2 7500m. As I already had a deposit there, I made the Tent and slept till the next day.

15th May Monday

This day I did not want to leave too early, because I wanted to go straight up to the last Camp before the sunset and rest some hours before the Summit attempt, so, I left at midday  and got the 8100m at about 5pm, where I decided to make my tent because I thought it was going to be too late when I got the 8300m.

So after making the tent, I boiled water and prepared everything for the Ascent,  rested a little bit, woke up, prepared everything and left at midnight.

16th May Tuesday

I left the 8100m at midnight, that day climbed also some other climbers, I had the same pace as them up to 8550m at the ridge that I got at with the sunrise, here for first time in my life I felt the effects of altitude, threw up once and then kept the traverse here is where I found three dead persons, It was very horrifying, I calmed down and went ahead. I  realized the difference of climbing without Oxygen, because I could see how the others with Oxygen got in front and I slowed down. It was very hard to climb the first and second Step, specially the last one. After this I took the last snow ramp, and at its beginning I also found another deceased. Here I was very exhausted  and  for first time I used the fixed ropes, at that time I was alone on the mount because all summited members with Oxygen already intersected me on their way down. I was also very worried because of the descent, in my mind there was always the image of the 4 dead, It was a little bit late and I had to climb the last 150m that I think are the most difficult in the world. It was the most difficult part, my pace was very slow and I had to do the greatest effort I have ever done. Twice at 8750m and at 8800m I thought, I better do this point my Top and descent strong enough to my tent.

But at those moments, more than my physical force, worked the philosophy  that took me up there: my motivation,  the compromise I had with all people who where with me in Ecuador, all people who trust and support me, what I was going to contribute to my country, my dream of getting to the Top of the world, all these things took all my will – power to its limits! and I kept fighting till the end.

Finally, extremely exhausted and with the greatest sense of accomplishment at 1:00 pm I got the Top of the world! I was completely alone there, tears went out from my eyes, One thousand thoughts and memories came to my mind, my beginnings as mountaineer, when the thinking of Everest was a very remote Idea and those things. The most fascinating moment in my life. I was there!! conquered the Top of the world, there was nothing else above my feet on the earth. I said thanks to life, thanks Everest for letting me have the honor of being on its Top, I philosophized  and meditated for some minutes, took some pictures and videos, then started going down, I knew that it is the most difficult part and that a little error can finish in the death and there was four dead climbers that remembered me that the whole way down.

I never stopped, not even to drink water, I was very afraid of sitting down and lose the conscience and die up there, finally got the Camp 4 at 8300m where I decided to sleep in a friend's tent,. Some  Sherpas recommended me to use Oxygen to sleep, I knew I was finished physically, but I felt that my breathing system was working very well. Besides I was decided not to use Oxygen at all, so I slept without oxygen and had no problem at all.

17th May Wednesday

On the next day, when I opened my eyes, it was hard to start again but after some efforts I woke up, wore my stuff, took my things and started descending, I took all my deposits from all the camps and at night very tired I got the ABC.

Once there I realized that I was the first climber without Oxygen this year and felt very happy of descending without any frostbitten member and completely healthy.

After a short resting I descend to base camp, then back to Kathmandu and finally back to Quito where I had a big reception and could finally rest.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.




   Atlas snowshoes


   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond







   Edelweiss ropes
Eureka Tents






   Granite Gear



   Helly Hansen


Ice Axes


   Kavu Eyewear





   Life is Good


   Lowe Alpine




   Mountain Hardwear




   New England Ropes




   Outdoor Research




   Princeton Tec


   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins




   Seattle Sports

Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope







   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
and more here


Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2005 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it