Everest 2006: Lincoln Hall is Alive !

News from 7Summits Club Everest expedition under the leadership of
Alexander Abramov

May 27 at 12.30 Chinese time rescue team of 10 Sherpa and expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov descended from the North Col. They delivered Lincoln Hall to ABC. Lincoln was able to walk on his  own. During the whole previous night Lincoln was sleeping on oxygen on the North Col. As soon as he arrived in ABC Lincoln was given new portion of medical  care. Brain edaema is practically gone now. He regained adequate perception of reality. Lincoln made a telephone call to his wife Barbara. He told her that he has bad frostbites of his fingers. Barbara answered that she would love him all the same even if he would loose all his fingers. In two days Lincoln is planning to go down to BC and then depart for Katmandu and Australia. Big thanks to Sherpas  of 7 Summits Club and expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov, who at risk for their own lives conducted rescue operation on Everest. Alexander Abramov, expedition leader

Update on the man who found Lincoln alive after he was declared dead is here.

Earlier: Alexander Abramov reports, "At ten in the evening on local time Lincoln Hall and Sherpas accompanying him have gone down in camp on North Col (7000м).

Yes !

Lincoln Hall has passed without assistance the whole snow slope, from 7500 m! In camp on the Saddle doctor Andrey Selivanov met him and led to a dining tent, which is now as a field hospital. As he said, the first problems of Lincoln is an acute psychosis, a disorientation in space, also he shows resistance accompanying and now to the doctor. First of all it will be necessary to calm him. The reason – an acute edema of a brain and hypoxia. The doctor have examined his hands – frostbitten 2-3 degrees. Legs to the moment of communication were not examined yet. On a question on prospects Andrey has told: "We shall overcome !". Now Lincoln is in heat, in spacious tent with electric illumination, 10 person are engaged in his service. Descent in АВС is planned for tomorrow's morning, but not early, when there will be a sun and will become warmer.

Under last message for today (23:00 local time), Lincoln Hall has fallen asleep in warm tent in camp on North Col. Necessary and possible (in this place) medical aid was rendered to him. "

The Leader of expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest
Alexander Abramov

Earlier: The rescue operation is continuing. While Alex reports it is unique, climbers has been rescued after spending the night out before up high, recall Brice's client and his guide Andy who spent the night out at the Third step. There has also been others...

Alex is reporting to us that the group appear to be descending the route from the ridge to high camp at 8300 meters. His expedition Sirdar Mingma Gelu (Lakpa's Sherpa Brother) is up there. He has brought some kind of carring basket. Lincoln has a rest, drinks tea. "He in consciousness, however not completely understands what happens."

From high camp the group prepares for descent following the difficult part, a rocky crest. From 7500 meters they will pass on a snow crest and Sherpas hope to lower Lincoln in camp on North Col by night. At 7000 the expedition Doctor Andrey Selivanov prepares a field hospital and waits for "descent of the victim."

Now 13 Sherpas under management of Mingma are occupied in rescue operation. They hope to have a rest and a sleep some hours in camp on the North Col.

Descent to АВС (6400м) is supposed to be begun at dawn, May, 27th. There, in advanced base camp (АВС) a new team of Sherpas prepares for the further transportation. Several teams are helping.

Earlier update: Yesterday Lincoln's team stated Lincoln Hall was dead (see below for the full report from them.) They also reported Тhomas Weber died.

We wondered what would Dan Mazur find? Other Everest climbers and EverestNews.com actually spoke about what Dan might find. No one knew what Dan knew about these apparent deaths or if he had any knowledge at all that these men were up there.

Dan called in to say he and a couple of other climbers from his team were headed up... Into the mess Dan was headed. Several dead bodies from 2006 would be in the path, but in what condition would the bodies from the night before be found? You see when you are "dead" on Everest, "dead" is a matter of condition in some cases. Maybe we can talk more about that in a few days...

So what did Dan find? Press reports are indicating Dan has found Lincoln ALIVE!!! The reports state Dan gave him tea and oxygen. We have not heard from Dan yet, as we would not expect too. Dan then reportedly called for call, and an army of Sherpas went up and are trying to bring Lincoln down.

PLEASE SEND YOUR THOUGHTS AND PRAYERS OUT TO DAN, PHIL AND ANDREW AND THE SHERPAS. Their lives are clearly at risk right now... The Sherpa will be able to stay longer the western climbers who will need to come down.

Alex, Lincoln's expedition leader has filed this NEW report: (the previous report stating Lincoln was dead follows it ...)

11:00 Moscow time. Alexander Abramov by the phone from camp ABC.

News about Lincoln Hall.

May, 25 at 19:20 Sherpas have stopped the rescue operation proceeding more of 9 hours at height about 8700 meters. They have verified the fact of death of Lincoln Hall, on the basis of that from 17:00 till 19:20 he did not submit any attributes of life. Five Sherpas, completely exhausted, have gone down in darkness in camp 8300.

In the morning May, 26 at 7 in the morning, Dan Mazur, which was climbing with group of clients, has informed, he is near Lincoln Hall. Lincoln was motionless, but submitted weak attributes of life. Immediately 13 Sherpas, spending night on North Col (7000 meters) were sent for realization of rescue operations on height of 8700 meters. The same task was put to five Sherpas which stay in camp 8300 . Unfortunately, two of them have lost sight yesterday and required help. Thus, approximately by 11 a.m. three Sherpas with tea, oxygen and medicines have reached Lincoln. After plentiful drink and reception of medicines, Lincoln started to talk, though speech of him was untied and he could not move independently . Not waiting arrival of the basic group, three Sherpas have started to move him on a crest. Now they could move him on 50 meters on a difficult rocky site. Now the second group of eight Sherpas with all necessary came for help. If weather will allow, rescue operations will proceed all night.

WE ASK YOU ALL TO SEND YOUR THOUGHTS AND PRAYERS OUT TO DAN, PHIL AND ANDREW AND THE SHERPAS. Their lives are clearly at risk right now...

Earlier report from the expedition leader: 18:30 Moscow time. Alexander Abramov by the phone from camp ABC. 21 – 25th of May good weather kept on Everest, the wind was very weak. May, 25 in midnight a team of Lincoln Hall (Australia), Homes Weber (Germany), guide Harry Kikstra (Holland) in support of 5 high-altitude porters has left camp of 8300 m for a summit attempt. The group was well provided with oxygen as about 20 superfluous cylinders were in camp 8300. At 9:00 Lincoln Hall and three Sherpas has reached the top. He went in good rate and has joyfully informed about his success on a portable radio set.

At 9:15 Harry Kikstra has informed, that Тhomas Weber, a climber with weakened sight, has completely lost sight. For this reason, traverse on rocks to the top at height of 8800 meters he considered practically impossible. Having conferred, Тhomas, Harry and two Sherpas have begun descent at 9:30 a.m., only 50 meters from the summit on height. At 10:00 Lincoln Hall has reached on descent a snow triangle, at height of 8800 meters. And at this moment Sherpas have transferred, that Lincoln started to move downwards very bad, coordination was lost. At 10:30 Lincoln has lain on snow and could not go down independently any more. Sherpas have begun rescue works. To the aid we have sent two more Sherpas from camp ABC with oxygen. They should bring additional oxygen, drink etc ….

Unexpectedly at 12:20, Harry Kikstra has informed that he is with Тhomas and to two Sherpas at a level of the Second step, height of 8700 meters. And that Тhomas has a collapse, Тhomas has told only: "I have died" and have lost consciousness. At 12:40 the death was verified . Harry has sent one of Sherpas upward to the aid of transportation of Lincoln. Then he has gone downwards with the second Sherpas. From 9:30 till 19:20 , almost 9 hours, four tried to get Lincoln lower. A crest here is very complicated technically and in condition of Lincoln it was possible to lower him for 9 hours on 300-400 meters on a crest. Sherpas could lower him from the Second step on height of 8700 meters. During descent Lincoln two times talked on a portable radio set to friends. Conversations were addle, there was an obvious loss of orientation in time and space. After 5 p.m. Lincoln has ceased to reply. Movements have got chaotic character. Sherpas continued attempts to move Lincoln along a crest, but at 19:20 the death was verified. The probable reason: brain cerebral edema, pulmonary edema . Now 21:30, Sherpas have gone down from a crest in camp 8300м, they are outside of danger though have got awfully tired. Harry Kikstra is in camp on 7000 m on North Col.

The Leader of expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest
Alexander Abramov
And the responsible secretary
Lyudmila Korobeshko

Very sad news... Our thoughts and prayers go out to the families

Dispatches

Background: Expedition name "7 Summits Club"

Expedition Leader - Alexander Abramov

Expedition guides - Alexander Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader,  Everest Summiteer, leader of 5 Himalayan Expeditions)

                   -  Igor Svergun, Ukrain (guide, 2 times Everest summiter,  from the North without oxygen, 5 other 8-thousanders, has 2 Piolet d’Ore)

                   - Mingma Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiteer)

                  - Sergey Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)

                  - Ludmila Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)

                  - Andrey Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)

                  - Maxim Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)

                  - Sergey Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)

                  List of  expedition members:

To the top

 20 Sherpas

6 cooks

6 kitchen boys

Total: 73 (30 clients, 43 staff)

Expedition start date : April 10

Expedition end date : June 10

Alexander Abramov with part of the staff arrives in Katmandu on March 20 to start the preparations for such a big expedition. 200 oxygen bottles are already bought for the expedition. 

Update: Alex is currently in Nepal meeting with Asian Trekking..

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