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  Everest 2006: Everest Expedition UPCT 2006


©EverestNews.com

Luis Carlos Garranzo Ibañez , a fireman from Cartagena (Spain) has extensive knowledge and experience in mountain climbing, an Instructor by the School of Mountain Climbing in Murcia, Carlos made his first climb at only 14 years.

Some of his main expeditions include:

-         Peru 1991 Huascaran (6.788metres) and  Pisco (5.752 metres)

-         Ecuador 1994- Cotopaxi (5.897 metres) and Chimborazo 6.310 metres

-         Aconcagua 1994 (6.959 metres)

-         Mount McKinley, via West Buttress route (6.194metres)

-         Expedition Murciana Karakorum 2000- attempted to climb Gasherbrum by the Austrian route but unfortunately it was hampered by poor weather conditions.

-         2003- Ice Climbs in Ourey ( Colorado USA).

-         2004- Ice Climbs in Valdez ( Alaska – USA ).

Now, at 45 years of age and sponsored by the University Polytechnic of Cartagena, Carlos has undertaken the challenge to climb the Northern Face of Everest,  the Col North, and a first attempt at climbing without using artificial oxygen.

 He arrived in Katmandu , March 27, 2006, to acclimatise and initially trekking in the Nepalese territory. He completed this successfully by climbing to the summit of Island Peack,  April 7.

After returning to Katmandu,  April 10, the current political problems in the city forced him to move to  the Chinese border by helicopter where he met up with another expedition from  Spain, “Expedition Andalucía Everest 2006” led by Huisa.

Crossing the Bridge of Friendship into China , they headed for the Chinese base camp where they arrived April 18. Due to heavy blizzards and snowstorms and the subsequent organisation of the yak convoys, various expeditions were held up their move to the Advanced Base Camp. 

Eventually, they set off,  April 24, for the Advanced Base Camp (6400metres) where they arrived on the April 26,  after spending a night  in a halfway camp at 5800metres.

In his own words, Carlos says  “ The Climb…spectacular, glacial tongues on either sides, slopes that would take your breath away, enormous cascades of ice, just some of the beauty that I was privileged to see on the days journey.”

After three days acclimatising in the Advanced Base Camp, the members of the Andalucian expedition, Huisa and Lopez complain of acute symptoms of altitude sickness (headaches, dizziness, insomnia and breathing problems). Although Carlos suffers mild symptoms only, the oxygen in his blood is at 72%, he is breathing well and therefore decides to continue on alone climbing to Base Camp I and if the conditions are favourable to go on further. Currently Carlos is above 7000 metres above sea level.

April 30, 2006 (information sent by Javier Blázquez)

After staying three at ABC, the members of the Andalucia Everest 2006 Expedition, hit with mountain sickness, with headache, insomnia, respiratory trouble... and, because of the extreme conditions of the night temperatures at ABC, the decide to go down to Chinese Base Camp to be back, in a few days, to this altitude mark in better conditions. 

Carlos Garranzo, from Cartagena, has slighter symptoms (headache) but his oxygen saturation is around 72% and he has no trouble breathing, so hi decides to stay and try to get to Camp I.  He continues is solo expedition, and his intention is to get soon to Camp I and even, if the conditions are good, to go beyond that point.  So today, he probably is above 7,000 m. 

We will try to keep contacting him, directly, or through other expeditions to keep you posted.  A hug and don't worry, I have seen he is very strong. 

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

The Spanish firefighter Luis Carlos Garranzo from Cartagena, Spain, is attempting Everest from his north side, the North Col route. He is an independent climber...

Update 05/02/2006: he is at 7000 mt (CI).

 

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