April, 8: A general strike
storms in Katmandu. Tyre-covers burn in streets. There is a lot of police and
militaries everywhere. Shops are closed, taxis do not work, or ask for double
payment. It is possible to reach the airport only by buses with special paper.
There is nothing to do for us, there is a rain.
Only one thing is good, that participants of our expedition have started to
arrive. Four are last year veterans: Alex Abramov, Harry, Noel Richmond Hanna,
Lorenzo Gariano. New members are: Ludmila Korobeshko, Ronald Kevin Muhl,
William Hazelton Tyler III, Barbara Tyler, Milan Collin and Kevin Augello (two
last - from videogroup of Thomas Weber project)
At whole, everything goes as beforehand planned. While members gather in
Katmandu, in Tibet already our preparation work continues. Today there was a
communication with Base Camp, where there are our guides: Nikolai Cherniy,
Andrey Selivanov, Maxim Onipchenko and 24 Sherpas. They have informed, that
all is good, the Base Camp stands. As well as the Middle Camp. Only one thing
is lack now - electricity. Tomorrow they plan for the first yaks caravan to
Unfortunately one of our main Sherpa, Renjin fell ill. He is one of the most
skilled and last year he climbed Everest with our team. Under our plan, the
first group (10 Sherpas) has left to Tibet 25-th of March (20 days prior to
the official beginning of expedition) to occupy best places for ВС and АВС
camps, and to start to prepare platforms for tents. Renjin supervised over
this avant-garde, and probably has risen too quickly in АВС. He complains of
pains in a breast, it seems as a pneumonia. He has not eat 5 days. Now Renjin
has gone down in Таshi-Zhong (4200м) and feels already better.
And we in Katmandu are waiting for the following members and drink beer
"Everest", in hope that it will help us to acclimatize better. The most part
of group arrives 10th of April, and 13-th we should leave to Tibet under the
Alex Abramov and Maoists (a series 2)
There is unusual silence in the streets of Katmandu. Only birdies sing. And
Two days of strike have not passed for nothing. In Katmandu, usually
gas-polluted, with transport filled streets, the ecological situation has
changed for better. The air became cleaner. And two-days rain has washed off
all dust and a dirty. Simply paradise !
Today we have woken up early, about 7 a.m. and for the first time for many my
visit of Katmandu, I have wanted to go jogging. I have woken Luda, and we have
run. The route of our ran goes along narrow streets of Katmandu. Local
Nepaleses looked at us as at bewildered. Precisely same reaction is observed
in Moscow, where we live in the city centre and usually we run along modern
offices, making slalom between brand-new Mercedeses and BMW.
In the area of Swoyambhunath we became witnesses of origin of demonstration.
One Nepalese stood and waved a red flag, crying out, probably, it was
damnations to king and to rich tourists. New and new people approached to him.
Then the order of police was directed this side.
On a return way, we have run over a corner of the next street as have come
across powerful demonstration (about hundred persons). With loud shouts people
moved on us. I have noticed, that they take stones from road. The prospect of
a meeting with furious crowd has seemed doubtful enough pleasure. Not reducing
speed, were unwrapped on 180 degrees.
Already near our hotel, Jami, the leader of one Everest expedition has shouted
to us, that in Katmandu the king enter a curfew since 10 a.m. till 9 p.m..
Streets have become empty. Only militaries and polices in corners. No one
could see in the streets. Only cows quietly walk along empty streets, and even
lay across dividing strips. It is good for cows: they outside of politics!
And for us it means an enormous problem:
Participants of our expedition continue to arrive and they should be met at
the airport. Transport does not go. Only some tourist buses, with
super-permissions, where the exact amount of tourists is specified, venture to
pass in the Airport. While we went, we were stopped by militarians about ten
times. But today all has passed well.
I think about 2005 and my last year trip to Tibet. If then we were stopped by
militarians and have unwrapped back, it would not be possible to maoists to
throw to our machine granates, and Sergey Kajmachnikov would not be treated
for explosion which has deprived with his part of stops.
And I till now have not taken out ten splinters from legs too. So I have no
huge love to Mao, and once again to risk it would not be desirable for me.
But work is work and so, in complicated political situation today we have met
new participants of our expedition: Giuseppe Gariano, Patrick Singh, Vince
Bousselaire and Slate Stern.
The main part of Russian group climbers has gone to Nepal
April, 9 the main part of Russian group of expedition of the 7 Summits Club
Everest expedition has taken off from the Sheremetievo airport, by flight to
Karachi. It was two guides: Igor Svergun and Sergey Kofanov, the manager of
the internet-project of expedition Sergey Chistiakov, and also members of
expedition: Vladimir Pushkarev, Igor Plyushkin, Arkady Ryzhenko, Ilya Rozhkov
and Vladimir Lande. Moscow farewells their by small rain, we shall hope, that
it to good luck.....
What is your task in the expedition?
Sergey Chistiakov (Moscow):
We would like to solve unique tasks. Never before, any expedition even did not
try to make any similar. First, I must to ensure internet in the base camp.
Then it is necessary to make this internet accessible to all. Plus full
electronic support of all expedition.
We want to carry out in general an unique project: translation of an Everest
ascent. I hope, that it will be held. Though much depends on weather factors.
There will be a direct translation on a internet site of our expedition, there
will be a constant picture of the Everest which will be updated 5-7 times one
minute. And in a day of an ascent there will be a close up of the top. That in
day of an ascent from Moscow it will be possible to observe, how there people
approach to the top. Hardly somebody can be recognized. We have all for this
project, we shall try to realize plans.
Vladimir Pushkarev (Nojabrsk, Yamal, Western Siberia).
You have taken what lessons from the first attempt ?
What you think in a new way to make ?
Last time there was too much of desire. This time such desire is not present.
It would be desirable so quietly, silently - peacefully, somewhere to go
through this acclimatization. On the sly to creep, leave forces only at last,
on the final attempt. To jerk and nevertheless to be at the top.
Probably, Mount Vinson was a main thing in training. All rest - for
preservation of the form which has got in Antarctica.
Igor Svergun (Kharkov):
6 eight-thousanders, Everest in 2005, and South Face Everest in 1992 until
You are a veteran of Everest. What do you expect from this expedition ?
My primary goal – climb on the top, and take with myself our clients. Probably
we shall get acquainted with them tomorrow, or day after tomorrow.
And so, an ascent on Everest is always a holiday and pleasure. This only thing
in life, that I am able to do. Therefore I hope, that all will pass good and
will be finished safely …
How you estimate a political situation in Nepal ?
I think, that the political situation should not excite us absolutely.
Nepal has not exchanged, people has remained the same. They struggle for the
rights, and they are right.
Sergey Kofanov (Ekaterinburg)
Eight-thousanders went already ?
No, only on seven-thousanders … Lenin Peak, Communism, Korzhenevskaia Peak,
Kongur quite a lot of....
Whether asked advice of veterans of the Everest, in Ekaterinburg? …
No, did not ask. I think, that there will be many veterans near Everest. I
shall go there and to all to stick with requests to give advice...
You feel ready?
Well, yes... And what answer do you expect ? What I am not ready, what I am
afraid ? …
What is your task in the expedition ?
Depending on a situation, in general, I am as an guide-aspirant here….
Background: Expedition name "7 Summits
Expedition Leader - Alexander
Expedition guides - Alexander
Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader, Everest Summiteer, leader of 5
Svergun, Ukrain (guide, 2 times Everest summiter, from the North without
oxygen, 5 other 8-thousanders, has 2 Piolet d’Ore)
Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiteer)
Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)
Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)
Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)
Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)
Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)
To the top
Hazelton Tyler III
Weber (blind climber)
Christopher Harris (son)
6 kitchen boys
Total: 73 (30 clients, 43
Expedition start date : April
Expedition end date : June 10
Alexander Abramov with part
of the staff arrives in Katmandu on March 20 to start the preparations for
such a big expedition. 200 oxygen bottles are already bought for the
Update: Alex is currently in Nepal meeting with Asian
Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude
and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14
mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a
makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine
Fit, and even lighter
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
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steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
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See more here.