Everest 2006: 7 Summits Club expedition: The TEAM 7 SUMMITS CLUB DRINKS BEER "EVEREST" FOR the BEST ACCLIMATIZATION  

April, 8: A general strike storms in Katmandu. Tyre-covers burn in streets. There is a lot of police and militaries everywhere. Shops are closed, taxis do not work, or ask for double payment. It is possible to reach the airport only by buses with special paper. There is nothing to do for us, there is a rain.

Only one thing is good, that participants of our expedition have started to arrive. Four are last year veterans: Alex Abramov, Harry, Noel Richmond Hanna, Lorenzo Gariano. New members are: Ludmila Korobeshko, Ronald Kevin Muhl, William Hazelton Tyler III, Barbara Tyler, Milan Collin and Kevin Augello (two last - from videogroup of Thomas Weber project)

At whole, everything goes as beforehand planned. While members gather in Katmandu, in Tibet already our preparation work continues. Today there was a communication with Base Camp, where there are our guides: Nikolai Cherniy, Andrey Selivanov, Maxim Onipchenko and 24 Sherpas. They have informed, that all is good, the Base Camp stands. As well as the Middle Camp. Only one thing is lack now - electricity. Tomorrow they plan for the first yaks caravan to АВС (6400м).

Unfortunately one of our main Sherpa, Renjin fell ill. He is one of the most skilled and last year he climbed Everest with our team. Under our plan, the first group (10 Sherpas) has left to Tibet 25-th of March (20 days prior to the official beginning of expedition) to occupy best places for ВС and АВС camps, and to start to prepare platforms for tents. Renjin supervised over this avant-garde, and probably has risen too quickly in АВС. He complains of pains in a breast, it seems as a pneumonia. He has not eat 5 days. Now Renjin has gone down in Таshi-Zhong (4200м) and feels already better.

And we in Katmandu are waiting for the following members and drink beer "Everest", in hope that it will help us to acclimatize better. The most part of group arrives 10th of April, and 13-th we should leave to Tibet under the plan.

Alex Abramov and Maoists (a series 2)

There is unusual silence in the streets of Katmandu. Only birdies sing. And flowers smelt.

Two days of strike have not passed for nothing. In Katmandu, usually gas-polluted, with transport filled streets, the ecological situation has changed for better. The air became cleaner. And two-days rain has washed off all dust and a dirty. Simply paradise !

Today we have woken up early, about 7 a.m. and for the first time for many my visit of Katmandu, I have wanted to go jogging. I have woken Luda, and we have run. The route of our ran goes along narrow streets of Katmandu. Local Nepaleses looked at us as at bewildered. Precisely same reaction is observed in Moscow, where we live in the city centre and usually we run along modern offices, making slalom between brand-new Mercedeses and BMW.

In the area of Swoyambhunath we became witnesses of origin of demonstration. One Nepalese stood and waved a red flag, crying out, probably, it was damnations to king and to rich tourists. New and new people approached to him. Then the order of police was directed this side.

On a return way, we have run over a corner of the next street as have come across powerful demonstration (about hundred persons). With loud shouts people moved on us. I have noticed, that they take stones from road. The prospect of a meeting with furious crowd has seemed doubtful enough pleasure. Not reducing speed, were unwrapped on 180 degrees.

Already near our hotel, Jami, the leader of one Everest expedition has shouted to us, that in Katmandu the king enter a curfew since 10 a.m. till 9 p.m.. Streets have become empty. Only militaries and polices in corners. No one could see in the streets. Only cows quietly walk along empty streets, and even lay across dividing strips. It is good for cows: they outside of politics!

And for us it means an enormous problem:
Participants of our expedition continue to arrive and they should be met at the airport. Transport does not go. Only some tourist buses, with super-permissions, where the exact amount of tourists is specified, venture to pass in the Airport. While we went, we were stopped by militarians about ten times. But today all has passed well.

I think about 2005 and my last year trip to Tibet. If then we were stopped by militarians and have unwrapped back, it would not be possible to maoists to throw to our machine granates, and Sergey Kajmachnikov would not be treated for explosion which has deprived with his part of stops.

And I till now have not taken out ten splinters from legs too. So I have no huge love to Mao, and once again to risk it would not be desirable for me.

But work is work and so, in complicated political situation today we have met new participants of our expedition: Giuseppe Gariano, Patrick Singh, Vince Bousselaire and Slate Stern.

The main part of Russian group climbers has gone to Nepal

April, 9 the main part of Russian group of expedition of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition has taken off from the Sheremetievo airport, by flight to Karachi. It was two guides: Igor Svergun and Sergey Kofanov, the manager of the internet-project of expedition Sergey Chistiakov, and also members of expedition: Vladimir Pushkarev, Igor Plyushkin, Arkady Ryzhenko, Ilya Rozhkov and Vladimir Lande. Moscow farewells their by small rain, we shall hope, that it to good luck.....

What is your task in the expedition?

Sergey Chistiakov (Moscow):
We would like to solve unique tasks. Never before, any expedition even did not try to make any similar. First, I must to ensure internet in the base camp. Then it is necessary to make this internet accessible to all. Plus full electronic support of all expedition.

We want to carry out in general an unique project: translation of an Everest ascent. I hope, that it will be held. Though much depends on weather factors. There will be a direct translation on a internet site of our expedition, there will be a constant picture of the Everest which will be updated 5-7 times one minute. And in a day of an ascent there will be a close up of the top. That in day of an ascent from Moscow it will be possible to observe, how there people approach to the top. Hardly somebody can be recognized. We have all for this project, we shall try to realize plans.

Vladimir Pushkarev (Nojabrsk, Yamal, Western Siberia).

You have taken what lessons from the first attempt ?
What you think in a new way to make ?

Last time there was too much of desire. This time such desire is not present. It would be desirable so quietly, silently - peacefully, somewhere to go through this acclimatization. On the sly to creep, leave forces only at last, on the final attempt. To jerk and nevertheless to be at the top.

Probably, Mount Vinson was a main thing in training. All rest - for preservation of the form which has got in Antarctica.

Igor Svergun (Kharkov):
6 eight-thousanders, Everest in 2005, and South Face Everest in 1992 until Hillary Step.

You are a veteran of Everest. What do you expect from this expedition ?

My primary goal – climb on the top, and take with myself our clients. Probably we shall get acquainted with them tomorrow, or day after tomorrow.

And so, an ascent on Everest is always a holiday and pleasure. This only thing in life, that I am able to do. Therefore I hope, that all will pass good and will be finished safely …

How you estimate a political situation in Nepal ?

I think, that the political situation should not excite us absolutely.
Nepal has not exchanged, people has remained the same. They struggle for the rights, and they are right.

Sergey Kofanov (Ekaterinburg)

Eight-thousanders went already ?

No, only on seven-thousanders … Lenin Peak, Communism, Korzhenevskaia Peak, Kongur quite a lot of....

Whether asked advice of veterans of the Everest, in Ekaterinburg? …

No, did not ask. I think, that there will be many veterans near Everest. I shall go there and to all to stick with requests to give advice...

You feel ready?

Well, yes... And what answer do you expect ? What I am not ready, what I am afraid ? …

What is your task in the expedition ?

Depending on a situation, in general, I am as an guide-aspirant here….

Dispatches

Background: Expedition name "7 Summits Club"

Expedition Leader - Alexander Abramov

Expedition guides - Alexander Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader,  Everest Summiteer, leader of 5 Himalayan Expeditions)

                   -  Igor Svergun, Ukrain (guide, 2 times Everest summiter,  from the North without oxygen, 5 other 8-thousanders, has 2 Piolet d’Ore)

                   - Mingma Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiteer)

                  - Sergey Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)

                  - Ludmila Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)

                  - Andrey Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)

                  - Maxim Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)

                  - Sergey Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)

                  List of  expedition members:

To the top

 20 Sherpas

6 cooks

6 kitchen boys

Total: 73 (30 clients, 43 staff)

Expedition start date : April 10

Expedition end date : June 10

Alexander Abramov with part of the staff arrives in Katmandu on March 20 to start the preparations for such a big expedition. 200 oxygen bottles are already bought for the expedition. 

Update: Alex is currently in Nepal meeting with Asian Trekking..

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