Everest 2006: 7 Summits Club expedition: North Col camp - the most comfortable in history

Copyright©Everestnews.com

The large part of our expedition stay at height 6400m now, in the ABC camp. And tomorrow we plan climb up to the North Col. Today command under Igor Svergun's leadership, two Norwegians, Dane and Noel Hanna from Ireland, reached the North Col. 2-3 day before, Sherpas could completely establish our camp on height 7100 meters.

The first time in the history of Everest, a large tent was established on the Col, dining room and kitchen - simultaneously. In this tent a high-altitude cook works now, who must prepare food both for members and for sherpas. There are 4 tables, 16 chairs in the tent, also we want to conduct electricity from the solar battery. Usually, in the camp on the saddle members and sherpas passed nights and prepared food in small tents. This was the reason for disorder and inconveniences. Sometimes this led even to the diseases. We hope that our innovation will be pleased and we will always place comfortable camp on the North Col.

There was a connection with Valery Babanov, he said that constantly snow falls, difficult to establish camp ABC at 6100 meters. We have a very similar situation, each day is snowing. I do not remember such bad conditions in 5 years, in the camp ABC the depth of snow – up the elbow. Tomorrow we plan to bless our ABC camp, the lama will arrive. For this we had supplied beer and Coca-Cola on the yaks. And tomorrow we leave to the North Col 7100 m high. This is the sequential stage of our acclimatizing program.

Snow is falling several days. The Weather is unusual - there was not such bad conditions for last four years. It seems, that winter was not finished yet and spring has not come yet. Usually there were dusty storms, strong wind, and only sometimes snow dropped out. Now everything is covered with snow. We move up with big efforts.

With best regards,

The Leader of expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest
Alexander Abramov

Dispatches

Background: Expedition name "7 Summits Club"

Expedition Leader - Alexander Abramov

Expedition guides - Alexander Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader,  Everest Summiteer, leader of 5 Himalayan Expeditions)

                   -  Igor Svergun, Ukrain (guide, 2 times Everest summiter,  from the North without oxygen, 5 other 8-thousanders, has 2 Piolet d’Ore)

                   - Mingma Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiteer)

                  - Sergey Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)

                  - Ludmila Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)

                  - Andrey Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)

                  - Maxim Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)

                  - Sergey Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)

                  List of  expedition members:

To the top

 20 Sherpas

6 cooks

6 kitchen boys

Total: 73 (30 clients, 43 staff)

Expedition start date : April 10

Expedition end date : June 10

Alexander Abramov with part of the staff arrives in Katmandu on March 20 to start the preparations for such a big expedition. 200 oxygen bottles are already bought for the expedition. 

Update: Alex is currently in Nepal meeting with Asian Trekking..

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps

   Hestra
   Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
   Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
   and more here