Everest 2006: 7 Summits Club expedition: North Col camp - the most comfortable in history

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The large part of our expedition stay at height 6400m now, in the ABC camp. And tomorrow we plan climb up to the North Col. Today command under Igor Svergun's leadership, two Norwegians, Dane and Noel Hanna from Ireland, reached the North Col. 2-3 day before, Sherpas could completely establish our camp on height 7100 meters.

The first time in the history of Everest, a large tent was established on the Col, dining room and kitchen - simultaneously. In this tent a high-altitude cook works now, who must prepare food both for members and for sherpas. There are 4 tables, 16 chairs in the tent, also we want to conduct electricity from the solar battery. Usually, in the camp on the saddle members and sherpas passed nights and prepared food in small tents. This was the reason for disorder and inconveniences. Sometimes this led even to the diseases. We hope that our innovation will be pleased and we will always place comfortable camp on the North Col.

There was a connection with Valery Babanov, he said that constantly snow falls, difficult to establish camp ABC at 6100 meters. We have a very similar situation, each day is snowing. I do not remember such bad conditions in 5 years, in the camp ABC the depth of snow – up the elbow. Tomorrow we plan to bless our ABC camp, the lama will arrive. For this we had supplied beer and Coca-Cola on the yaks. And tomorrow we leave to the North Col 7100 m high. This is the sequential stage of our acclimatizing program.

Snow is falling several days. The Weather is unusual - there was not such bad conditions for last four years. It seems, that winter was not finished yet and spring has not come yet. Usually there were dusty storms, strong wind, and only sometimes snow dropped out. Now everything is covered with snow. We move up with big efforts.

With best regards,

The Leader of expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest
Alexander Abramov

Dispatches

Background: Expedition name "7 Summits Club"

Expedition Leader - Alexander Abramov

Expedition guides - Alexander Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader,  Everest Summiteer, leader of 5 Himalayan Expeditions)

                   -  Igor Svergun, Ukrain (guide, 2 times Everest summiter,  from the North without oxygen, 5 other 8-thousanders, has 2 Piolet d’Ore)

                   - Mingma Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiteer)

                  - Sergey Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)

                  - Ludmila Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)

                  - Andrey Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)

                  - Maxim Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)

                  - Sergey Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)

                  List of  expedition members:

To the top

 20 Sherpas

6 cooks

6 kitchen boys

Total: 73 (30 clients, 43 staff)

Expedition start date : April 10

Expedition end date : June 10

Alexander Abramov with part of the staff arrives in Katmandu on March 20 to start the preparations for such a big expedition. 200 oxygen bottles are already bought for the expedition. 

Update: Alex is currently in Nepal meeting with Asian Trekking..

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