Everest 2006: 7 Summits Club: IT WAS A FATAL DAY FOR US...

22th of May. Ludmila Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov from АВС, 6400м.

I also want to tell about events of May, 21-22 which occurred not in area of summit and second camp. May, 21 the second group planned an exit for the North Col. There were 4 Australian climbers, and among them father and son, Richard and Christopher Harris. From the first steps from АВС the son, Chris now 15 years old, has felt badly. He had a collapse, that is sharp pressure drop, and all group has returned to camp. We have taken the appropriate measures: the guy has spent with a mask about one hour, his pressure was normalized. Later the Australian team made decision to try once again.

In the morning May, 22 after first 300 meters, Chris has felt very badly again. After that we have finally made decision to refuse an ascent. In camp ABC we have again carried out medical actions, Chris was filling better. Tomorrow they will go down in base camp. Also in this day when above guides struggled for Igor's life, Sergey Chistiakov in camp ABC has felt badly. We also have connected the oxygen equipment. When he has felt better, he has on gone downwards, into middle camp. So May, 22 was for us a fatal day. At once several persons were ill. Now, we hope, that Sergey is already out of danger, as well as Chris. Everest expedition is very heavy business and an organism of many people simply does not maintain long loading. Now only Harry, Тhomas Weber and strongest of Australians Lincoln Hall continue an ascent.

IGOR PLYUSHKIN WAS LOST ON SLOPES OF EVEREST.

May, 21 the first group of climbers, 20 person (9 members, 2 guides and 9 high-altitude porters) makes an attempt to reach the summit of Everest. Climbers have left camp at height of 8300 meters in midnight. All group used artificial oxygen during the ascent. By 10 a.m. 16 persons have reached the top of Everest. The others 4 climbers have reached heights 8600 - 8700 meters, among them was Igor Plyushkin from Krasnodar. At 10:30 all team, all 20 persons started to descent to the camp 3. At 3 p.m. all team was already down in camp of 8300 meters. The weather was good. Sherpas have prepared tea and climbers had a rest for two hours. Then all team has gone down (still using oxygen) for spending night in the camp 2 at 7800 meters, on more safe altitude. So day May, 21 was finished.

May, 22 in the morning after breakfast at 12 a.m., the team was ready to start for descent from camp of 7800 meters downwards to the North Col (7000 meters). Igor Plyushkin has passed 15 meters from his tent and has felt badly. He has addressed to guides for help, complaining on lack of oxygen and difficulty at breath. Thus he moved with use of oxygen equipment. The increase of submission of oxygen from two to four litres in minute has not helped. Injections have not helped also, struggle for life proceeded one and a half hour. Unfortunately, Igor's condition thus essentially was not improved. At 13:45 guides were forced to verify death. The body was solved to leave at height of 7800 meters. Guides have photographed it, have closed by sleeping bags and have covered by stones. At 7 p.m. all team was down in advanced base camp ABC, on height of 6400 meters.

Igor Plyushkin, 54 year, was a skilled climber, had climbed all 7000meters summits of the former USSR. (Snow leopard)

The Leader of expedition 7 Summits Club on Everest
Alexander Abramov
And the responsible secretary
Lyudmila Korobeshko

Dispatches

Background: Expedition name "7 Summits Club"

Expedition Leader - Alexander Abramov

Expedition guides - Alexander Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader,  Everest Summiteer, leader of 5 Himalayan Expeditions)

                   -  Igor Svergun, Ukrain (guide, 2 times Everest summiter,  from the North without oxygen, 5 other 8-thousanders, has 2 Piolet d’Ore)

                   - Mingma Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiteer)

                  - Sergey Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)

                  - Ludmila Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)

                  - Andrey Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)

                  - Maxim Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)

                  - Sergey Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)

                  List of  expedition members:

To the top

 20 Sherpas

6 cooks

6 kitchen boys

Total: 73 (30 clients, 43 staff)

Expedition start date : April 10

Expedition end date : June 10

Alexander Abramov with part of the staff arrives in Katmandu on March 20 to start the preparations for such a big expedition. 200 oxygen bottles are already bought for the expedition. 

Update: Alex is currently in Nepal meeting with Asian Trekking..

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