Looking down on High camp on Mt Everest
Camp 6 for some, camp 3 for others©EverestNews.com
22th of May. Ludmila
Korobeshko and Alexander Abramov from АВС, 6400м.
I also want to tell about events of May, 21-22 which occurred not in area of
summit and second camp. May, 21 the second group planned an exit for the North
Col. There were 4 Australian climbers, and among them father and son, Richard
and Christopher Harris. From the first steps from АВС the son, Chris now 15
years old, has felt badly. He had a collapse, that is sharp pressure drop, and
all group has returned to camp. We have taken the appropriate measures: the
guy has spent with a mask about one hour, his pressure was normalized. Later
the Australian team made decision to try once again.
In the morning May, 22 after first 300 meters, Chris has felt very badly
again. After that we have finally made decision to refuse an ascent. In camp
ABC we have again carried out medical actions, Chris was filling better.
Tomorrow they will go down in base camp. Also in this day when above guides
struggled for Igor's life, Sergey Chistiakov in camp ABC has felt badly. We
also have connected the oxygen equipment. When he has felt better, he has on
gone downwards, into middle camp. So May, 22 was for us a fatal day. At once
several persons were ill. Now, we hope, that Sergey is already out of danger,
as well as Chris. Everest expedition is very heavy business and an organism of
many people simply does not maintain long loading. Now only Harry, Тhomas
Weber and strongest of Australians Lincoln Hall continue an ascent.
IGOR PLYUSHKIN WAS LOST ON SLOPES OF EVEREST.
May, 21 the first group of climbers, 20 person (9 members, 2 guides and 9
high-altitude porters) makes an attempt to reach the summit of Everest.
Climbers have left camp at height of 8300 meters in midnight. All group used
artificial oxygen during the ascent. By 10 a.m. 16 persons have reached the
top of Everest. The others 4 climbers have reached heights 8600 - 8700 meters,
among them was Igor Plyushkin from Krasnodar. At 10:30 all team, all 20
persons started to descent to the camp 3. At 3 p.m. all team was already down
in camp of 8300 meters. The weather was good. Sherpas have prepared tea and
climbers had a rest for two hours. Then all team has gone down (still using
oxygen) for spending night in the camp 2 at 7800 meters, on more safe
altitude. So day May, 21 was finished.
May, 22 in the morning after breakfast at 12 a.m., the team was ready to start
for descent from camp of 7800 meters downwards to the North Col (7000 meters).
Igor Plyushkin has passed 15 meters from his tent and has felt badly. He has
addressed to guides for help, complaining on lack of oxygen and difficulty at
breath. Thus he moved with use of oxygen equipment. The increase of submission
of oxygen from two to four litres in minute has not helped. Injections have
not helped also, struggle for life proceeded one and a half hour.
Unfortunately, Igor's condition thus essentially was not improved. At 13:45
guides were forced to verify death. The body was solved to leave at height of
7800 meters. Guides have photographed it, have closed by sleeping bags and
have covered by stones. At 7 p.m. all team was down in advanced base camp ABC,
on height of 6400 meters.
Igor Plyushkin, 54 year, was a skilled climber, had climbed all 7000meters
summits of the former USSR. (Snow leopard)
The Leader of expedition 7
Summits Club on Everest
And the responsible secretary
Background: Expedition name "7 Summits
Expedition Leader - Alexander
Expedition guides - Alexander
Abramov, Russia (main guide and leader, Everest Summiteer, leader of 5
Svergun, Ukrain (guide, 2 times Everest summiter, from the North without
oxygen, 5 other 8-thousanders, has 2 Piolet d’Ore)
Gelu Sherpa, Nepal (sirdar, 5 times Everest Summiteer)
Kofanov, Russia (assistant guide)
Korobeshko, Russia (assistant guide)
Selivanov, Russia (doctor and ABC manager)
Onipchenko, Russia (mountain ranger, BC manager)
Chistyakov, Russia (internet project manager)
To the top
Hazelton Tyler III
Weber (blind climber)
Christopher Harris (son)
6 kitchen boys
Total: 73 (30 clients, 43
Expedition start date : April
Expedition end date : June 10
Alexander Abramov with part
of the staff arrives in Katmandu on March 20 to start the preparations for
such a big expedition. 200 oxygen bottles are already bought for the
Update: Alex is currently in Nepal meeting with Asian
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