
On Friday, the 28th of
April, I was excited to be headed back up the mountain. I left base camp at
6:30 AM. It was cold and windy. I started climbing thru the Icefall with
Doug and Will Cross. I could tell early on that my breathing was not as good
as usual. I decided to slow down my pace and let the two of them go ahead. I
met my teammate, Matt Tredway, coming down the Icefall. Matt had been at
Camp II for two nights and was headed back to base camp for a well deserved
rest.
About 2/3 of the way up the
Icefall, "I hit the wall." My breathing became very labored. I would climb a
short section and gasp for air, gasp for air. I considered turning around at
this point. I thought if I could take a break and drink more fluids, I would
be all right. This was not so and I continued to have problems. Fortunately,
one of our Sherpas, Mingma Sherpa, had come up behind me - he was headed to
Camp I. Mingma knew something was wrong and would not leave me.
I knew I was holding Mingma
back and told him several times to go ahead - but he refused. When I finally
got to the top of the Icefall, I took another break. I still remained short of
breath. As we climbed out along the Western Cum, I felt extremely weak and
dizzy. I subsequently had to lie down in the snow. I doubted I could make it
to Camp I and I truly felt like, possibly the end had come. Mingma apparently
sensed the same. He took my backpack in addition to his heavy load. He made me
keep moving. We would go three to four steps and then I would have to pause to
breath. I had the sense that Mingma was heading me like a lazy yak. He would
make the sounds of a yak driver on occasion.
We finally reached Camp I. My
team mate, Doug Tumminello, was waving us down. He was concerned, especially
since he had expected me to arrive four to five hours earlier. I tried to lay
down in the tent, however, I could not. I had to sit, propped up, in order to
breath. Doug and Mingma nursed me for the next several hours and my breathing
improved significantly.
Doug contacted base camp by
radio and discussed the situation with our base camp manager, Roger Coffey,
and Apa Sherpa, our Sirdar. They contacted other teams and IMG provided oxygen
and offered their support. I continued to improve over the next several hours
and was able to get some rest . . . eventually. The rest of the night was
uneventful.
The next morning, Apa Sherpa
insisted that I descend. I did not think I had the strength to do this. Apa
arranged for Mingma Sherpa and Ang Passang to accompany me. I felt better as I
got moving and descended to a lower altitude. Before I left, I took a long
look at the Lhotse Face and the South Col. They looked so close but I knew
that they were impossible for me. I also knew that my climb was over. I have
always had a fascination with the South Col - I even named my dog Col.
I finally made it down the
Icefall and was so relieved to see our tents and team mates. Due to some
health problems encountered in December and a subsequent diagnosis of coronary
artery disease, It was questioned whether I should climb. Coming to terms with
this diagnosis was very difficult as was making a decision on whether are not
to continue on with this expedition. This climb had been a long term dream and
we had been planning the details of this journey for well over two years. I
felt that I would have life long regrets if I did not give this expedition my
best shot. I am glad I made this decision. I gave the mountain my best.
I received so much more than
I gave. Just to be associated with my wonderful team mates was worth it. I
have learned so much from all of them, and will carry this experience with me
throughout the rest of my life.
I feel a real brotherhood
with the Sherpas. They are a wonderful, gentle, and honorable people. I am so
grateful to Mingma Sherpa. We still mourn for the death of our Sherpas, Dawa
Temba and Lhakpa Tseri, who were both killed in the Icefall. Mingma was also
injured as well as Passang Nuru. Passang was temporarily buried in ice and
snow, however, he was able to free himself. On my trek out, I plan to trek to
the village of Thame, home to Apa as well as most of our other Sherpas. There
has to be something special about this village to produce such remarkable men.
Dr. Rigsby will spend
three nights in the village of Thame on his trek to Lukla.
Everest 2006: Team No
Limits Dispatches
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