Everest 2007:  Alpine Ascents Everest expedition: Team in Pheriche

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Team in Pheriche
4/9/07    

Hello Everyone,
The team is experiencing some satellite connection difficulties today. They are currently in Pheriche and will resume regular dispatches soon.

The Staff of Alpine Ascents

April 6 - Thame
    

Namaste friends, family and loved ones,

Sleep is coming easier now that the team is adjusting to the rarified atmosphere. Of course, sleeping in the home of the most accomplished Everest climber in the world may help to put our minds at ease as well. Pancakes and eggs for breakfast also has a wonderfully calming effect on us. So, we were in a delightful mood as we climbed up to the ancient Thengbo monastery above Thame. This particular Gompa was established over 350 years ago by three Tibetian monk brothers. Inside is an exquisite hand written library, ornate murals and a multitude of religious relics and musical instruments. The gregarious Lama prayed for our safe return and blessed each of us with Kata scarfs and Shrudis (prayer strings). This ceremony was accompanied by his drum and bell playing and affected us deeply as we meditated on the days to come.

Afterwards we scrambled up to the top of the ridge where we had some great views up toward the Nangpa La and the mountains of the Tibetian border. The tallest of which is Cho-oyu, a lovely peak that Ferat, Amy and I climbed last October. I suppose you could call us “repeat ascenders”. It was then our appitites called and we ran down to Apa’s for lunch. Our Sirdar and good friend Lhakpa is originally from Thame so we were eager to visit when his mother invited us all over for tea. Her home was a simple stone structure yet it was filled with love and human warmth. It’s easy to understand how Lakpa became such a wonderful man, one we have all become quite fond of.

The trekker went to the Gompa or monastery as well in the afternoon and visited with Lakpa’s family. They will be calling in their own cybercasts from now.

Stay tuned, Vern

April 5 - Thame: Tashi Delek from Thame! Today the trekkers and Bill are taking an “active rest day” in Namche with Pete and Ellie. They are visiting the Sherpa museum, taking hot showers, shopping and eating. The shopping in Namche is really nice as the friendly shop keepers are not aggressive like in Kathmandu and there are so many yak bells, colorful homemade hats and socks, and carpets to buy as well as all the useful things like cough drops and batteries. Many of us are enjoying seeing friends we’ve made over the years both on the trail and in the villages so there is much visiting involved along the way.

The Climbers walked to Thame today along an unusually flat contoured trail. In fact there is no word in the Nepali language for flat. We lunched in Thamo on Khumbu potato French fries and a spread of yummy food. The Khumbu potatoes are famous because they taste like roasted chestnuts and are absolutely the bet potatoes in the world. We would have been able to look up and see a lot of peaks today including all of the peaklets on the south side of Cho Oyu but we were treated to a refreshing and foggy day and didn’t get to see much far away but were treated with the things close in. We saw miniature purple Himalayan Iris and Tibetan Mastif mix puppies and about 5 Thar in a drainage that Todd spotted with his super powered bow hunting eyeballs. Thar are like mountain goats in shape and size but they are brown. They live with the same habits as mountain goats and are impressive to watch climb up and down rocks. We also saw a Danphe pheasant, the national bird of Nepal. They are iridescent and green, purple, and white.

In Thame we are staying for two nights at Apa Sherpas lodge, Everest Summiter lodge. The name is fitting for Apa who holds the record for climbing Everest at 16 times. We have been treated here to a wonderful art showing of of beautiful folk paintings Pasang made and the amazing thing is that he lost all of his fingers when he was young when he got caught in a storm on the Nangpa La while he was carrying for traders. Tomorrow we are planning a puja, a Buddhist blessing, at the Thame Monastary. The first of several to come.

So that is what we are up to now. Really roughing it up high in the Khumbu, enjoying every moment of it!

Be Well everyone and thanks for checking in with us!
Amy

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