One of our favorite pictures: a climber
up high getting ready to go for it in 2004 ©EverestNews.com
May 23, 2007 Camp III: Tonight Brian, Jaime and Willie are at
camp III, hopefully sleeping well and holding up with energy for their climb.
They plan to start moving at 6:00am, suited up and with the oxygen flowing on
their trip to south col. Everyone seemed to move at a consistent pace today, and
they were all in camp by 1:00pm.
This is just a short report to keep everyone informed. Details of the climbing
route have been outlined in previous dispatches. The difference is, this time
Willie and Tendi don't have to fix ropes! More tomorrow as the boys start moving
into committing ground. Peace to you back home.
Earlier: May 21, 2007 Camp II: It's back
on the mountain again for Willie and Tendi! This morning they left with Jaime to
head back up to camp II, where they will meet Brian, and move up to camp III
together tomorrow. Willie and Tendi Sherpa had about three days rest in base
camp, during which time Brian was acclimatizing at camp II, with a day trip up
to camp III. Brian's health is holding up so well that we have faith he will
have a good shot at the summit in 2 days time. These days there is a lot of
traffic up there, so we are hoping Willie finds the route much easier this time,
not having to break trail. As for Tendi, he was Willie's partner on their last
summit day, fixing lines together all night, out in front of everyone, even
spooning with each other for two hours while waiting for more rope, at one
point. That's a strong foundation to a trusting climbing relationship, so we
know the two of them will be a good team for Brian on this attempt.
As for Jaime, he will be climbing Lhotse, if all goes well, and his amazing ski
turns of last week have become legendary around base camp. We are hoping he is
able to make a ski descent of all of Lhotse on the same night as our Everest
summitters. We will stay posted on him for the next few days, too.
All is well in base camp, as groups are leaving daily, rocks are falling out
from beneath tents, and it is downright pleasant weather most of the time.
Tomorrow we hope to report a timely arrival at camp III, where the climbers will
start oxygen and indeed, the ball will be rolling. We are sure Brian is very
excited for this monumental step in progress up the mountain, and until then,
Mountain Madness will return to Everest in Spring 2007 with
a commercial expedition led by Willie Benegas, The final commercial team will
be announced soon... But they have several clients. They will again attempt from the South (Nepal) side of
the mountain. Christine Boskoff, owner of Mountain Madness sadly passed away
The Climber: Willie Benegas
raised in the wild heart of Patagonia, Willie Benegas, along with his
twin brother Damien, have pursued a long apprenticeship in the
mountains. As one of the "young bucks" of the world-class North Face
team, Willie has pushed his craft on the big-walls of Yosemite, the airy
summits of South America, and the loftiest peaks of the Himalaya.
The boundless duo, now
hailing from Berkeley California, completed their first major new ascent
with a route up Patagonia's West Face of Pilquitron (VI, 5.9, A3) which
is still unrepeated.
At 20, they climbed Fitz
Roy's impressive Supercouloir as well as routes on Guillaumet and Poincenot.
In the following years, Willie has ticked off the South Face of Aconcagua, a
new route on the North Face of Pakistan's Nameless Tower (VII), record speed
ascents in Yosemite valley, and attempted major new routes on the legendary
North Faces of Thalay Sagar and Jannu.
But simply overcoming
technical routes or highest summits is not enough for this 30 year old
climber. He gathers equal satisfaction by introducing others to the
wide-world of mountain experience. To help fulfill this goal, Willie and
Damien established Patagonian Brothers Expeditions specializing in South
American guided climbs and treks. They also lead expeditions for Out There
Trekking (UK, OTT) in Africa, South America, and on Himalayan giants such as
Willie has many plans for the
future, but he often gets the same question; why do you climb? When asked
about the draw of high places, he says "a mountain adventure will carry over
into many facets of your life, teaching about yourself, your co-existence with
nature, and respect for other people's cultures."
Willie's Brief Resume below
2001 OLN "Outlaws of the
1991 "Swimming with
whales" discovery channel
Nameless Tower "Book of
Shadows" VII 5.10+ A4 WI4, 1995
Mt Kenya all massif towers
in 16 hrs, 2002
Mt Cuerno 17.600ft South
Face First Ascent 5.7 WI 3 4640ft in 4.36hrs R/ trip solo, 2000
Fitzroy Super Canaleta VI
5.10b A1 WI 3,1987
Atensoraju 19.328ft. new
route North ridge/face "The Pandora Box of Artensoraju:" 5.9 WI 3, 1998
Oshapalca new route South
face "My Message" 5.7 WI 4/5 2.400ft., 2000
Aconcagua World record
ascent/descent 54miles 13500ft elevation gain, 2000
First Ascent Argentina Andes
"Welcome to a Dream" V 5.11 A4+.,1999
Patagonia Exploration, first
ascent "Swept by the Wind" 5.13a, 1,000ft.
endurance run first place 9.35hrs., 1986
The Nose VI 5.11 A1 16
ascents, ten one day ascents.
South Seas (VI 5.10 A5)
Sea of Dreams (VI 5.10 A5)
Regular Route (VI 5.10 A1)
twenty times. Fastest time was 3:30
20/20 Classics Climb's in
twenty days of the 50 Classic's Climbs of North America Book. Ascended
60,080ft, traveled 137 miles on foot, 2hrs in canoe, and climbed 241
ABOUT WILLIE: Born and raised
in the wild heart of Patagonia, Willie Benegas has pursued a long
apprenticeship in the mountains. Willie has pushed his craft on the big walls
of Yosemite, the airy summits of South America, and the loftiest peaks of the
Himalayas. Willie completed his first major ascent in the winter of 1987 with
a route up Patagonia's West Face of Pitriquitron (VI, 5.9 A3 W2/3), which has
still not been repeated. At age 20, he climbed Aconcagua's impressive South
Face, as well as Fitzroy. In the following years, Willie "ticked off" the
first ascent of the North Face of Pakistan's Nameless Tower "Book of Shadows"
(VII, 5.10+ A4 W14), made record speed ascents in Yosemite Valley, and
attempted major new routes on the legendary North Faces of Thalay Sagar and
Jannu. In 2001, he set the world record speed ascent/descent of the highest
mountain in the Western Hemisphere, Aconcagua (22,831 ft.), summited Everest
for a second time, and ran the legendary Leadville Ultra 100-mile Race. In the
spring of 2002, Willie reached the Top of the World yet a third time. However,
simply overcoming technical routes and conquering summits around the world is
not enough for this 34-year-old climber. He gathers equal satisfaction by
introducing others to the world of mountain experiences and exploration.
Willie has many plans for the future, but he often gets the same question, why
do you climb? To this he simply says, "A mountain adventure will carry over
into the many facets of life, teaching yourself about yourself, your
co-existence with nature, and the respect for people's cultures."
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