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 Everest 2008: More Aurn Trek climbers summits with 3 Sherpas


Five more from Arun treks summited at 11.45 am. details below.
21st May 2008, 3.30 pm.
 
Good news received from Everest base camp. Just 5 minutes ago, our base camp person Lunduk sherpa & liaison officer called up & passed the information that our Everest team did 100% summit success in Mt Everest Expedition.
 
Following clients & Sherpas did the summit at 11.45 am  
 
1
Ms Kalpana Dash
Leader
Indian
2
Mr Ryszard Kurdziel
Member
Canadian
 
Kalpana Dash is actually from Kumbhar Sahi, Kanchan Bazar, Dhenkanal, state: Orrisa , India
 
Following climbing sherpas from the same team reach on the summit at the same time
 
  1. Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa from Solukhumbu district, Sotang - 6
  2. Kusang Tenzing Sherpa from Taplejung district, Lelep – 9
  3. Ngima Nuru Sherpa from Solukhumbu district, Namche – 4
Ngima nuru did the 10th summit on Mt Everest. I think they discent to camp IV today & descent all the way to EBC by tomorrow.
 
Rosa Maria descent to the BC safely, she is taking rest & probably trek back soon.
 
Congratulation to all of you
 
Posted by Dawa, KTM
.....................................................................................
20th May 2008
It’s right time for shouting!!!! We did the first Mt Everest summit 2008 on the south side.
 
“Congratulation to our team”
 
We did first Mt Everest summit from the South side. Cheers my friend Namgya Sherpa, yes actually he is my best friend.
 
Few information of Namgya Sherpa!!!!!
 
Namgya Sherpa, a permanent resident of Lelep V.DC – 8, Taplejung district, (a very far eastern region of Nepal ) & now temporary resident of Kathmandu is a very successful mountain guide. He started trekking & mountaineering expedition field as a junior trekking sherpa man who just carry backpack of client. But now this is his 7th times summit on Mt Everest. Last year on the north side of Mt Everest he did twice summit.
 
How did he make the first Mt Everest Summit from the south east route?
 
He went up to Everest base camp after guiding a trekking team to Langtang region. As I remember he flew to Lukla on 3rd may 2008 & he is on the top on 20th may, which means that within the 17 days only. What a great job Namgya!!! Cool.
 
Yesterday around 4pm, I have received a call from my base camp cook, Mr Lunduk sherpa, we just talked few minutes. He said
 
“ Hello Dawa, today Namgya Sherpa reached on the top of Mt Everest at 3.30 pm. Plus Rosa Fernandez Maria & Da Chhiri Sherpa, they made summit of Mt Lhotse at 8.35 am.”
 
Ms Rosa Fernendez Maria, from Spain , is a real Himalaya mountain climber; she did Mt Everest with us before. Da Chhiri Sherpa, an experienced climbing sherpa from Namche- 4, date of birth 1977. I don’t say 100% that Rosa & Da Chhiri is the first summit persons on Mt Lhotse spring 2008 but I can say more than 50% that they are the first summiteers on Lhotse as well.
 
I am waiting for more news from Everest base camp. Richard an experienced Canadian climber supposes to go on summit this morning. Ms Kalpana Dash, an indian lady climber is doing well, she plan to go for summit attampt on 23rd morning. I will up date the news soon as possible.
 
Dawa Lama from KTM.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
18th May 2008
As per the phone conversation to Everest base camp person, our team is fine & now climbing up from Camp II . Now finally they are going for the summit attempt. Our Everest/Lhotse summit plan is
 
19th May Camp II
20th May Camp III
21st May Camp IV
22nd May Summit & descent to Camp II
 
But Richard probably going to summit on 21st may.
 
I wish them all the best for successful & safe climbing to the summit & descent
 
 
Dawa Lama
HQ office in KTM
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As usual, 2008 spring, we are doing couple of mountaineering expedition to the Himalaya .
 
  1. Friendship Mt Everest Expedition 2008
  2. Arun Lhotse Expedition 2008   
  3. BSF Mt Kanchengunga Expedition 2008
  4. DCXP Lhotse Expedition 2008
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Friendship Mt Everest Expedition consist of 2 members only, they are
Full Name
Capacity
Nationality
Ms Kalpana Dash
Leader
Indian
Mr Ryszard Kurdziel
Member
Canadian
 
As I have information from the base camp of Mt Everest, they are doing so well, climbing above camp III . Our summit plan is 22nd May, if not good weather then we will jump to the next following days.
 
Will up date the news soon ……………….
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Arun Lhotse Expedition
Full Name
Capacity
Nationality
Mr Anthony Olejnicki
Member
Australian
Ms Rosa Maria Fernandez
Member
Spain
 
Yes they are also climbing up from camp III , They are trying their summit bit between 22nd to latest 25th May. Both of them are so strong climbers therefore I hope we will 100% results from this team. But we still have to see…………………………

Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350 meters)

This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest.  Base camp is located at 17,500 feet.   This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain.  This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary.  Many organizations offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically challenging (though you must be very fit). 

From base camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall.    This training and recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push. 

The Icefall is in constant motion.  It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and listen to continuous ice creaking below.  This often acts as a testing ground to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing.   The Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.

Camp I - 5900 meters

After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet.  Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.

The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm.  As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp.  Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.

Camp II - 6500 meters

As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest).  The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall.  Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber's life.  Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps. 

Camp III - 23,700 feet (7200 meters)

To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many  Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.

Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)

As you’re leaving C4…it’s a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately it’s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as you’re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as it’s easier to keep moving down the Spur when it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which aren’t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.

Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers' first overnight stay in the Death Zone.  The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet.  Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone."  The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur.  Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above.  Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.

Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push.  It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations.  It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not).  Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.

From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet.  The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest.  The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time.  Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest's altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.

Summit - 29,028 feet (8848 meters)

Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet.  The summit sits at the top of the world.  Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak on earth.  Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third the oxygen as at sea level.  If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes.  Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible.   The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.  

As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.

Pictures from Enrique Guallart-Furio web site http://ww2.encis.es/avent/

 
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