Update 3/17/2008: The North side of Everest: Where we stand: No visas are
being issued. One expedition leader believe there is a one percent chance,
most believe no chance. It is basically over and could get worse. Permits to
get into Tibet for treks, not even in the Everest area, are being turned down
It appears Everest from Tibet is closed
and shut down. It appears other expeditions to anywhere in Tibet have slim
chances of going. "It is basically over", one expedition leader told
Another expedition leader, "they are basically toast over there.."
The South side: We shall update on Tuesday,
but things could get worst there too... Some expeditions are going to go for
it... We will see...
Update: 3/14/2008 9.50 am America; Minister for Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation Prithvi Subba Gurung, ""Expedition teams will not be allowed to move from
Nepal's Everest base camp from May 1 to May 10," , Prithvi Subba Gurung
While not new information, it is public
Update 8.30am America:
Where we stand : Everest is closed on both sides until after May 10th as we
stand today. Heavy and heated negotiations on the Nepal side are
ongoing on a daily basis in Nepal to reopen the mountain with the GOAL
of being able to go to Base camp and a little further up before May 10th.
There is a real possibility Everest in Nepal will close totally for the
season. Some would say it already has been closed and that the negotiations
are to reopen the mountain.
Time frame: Commercial operators and hoping
for news but not before the first part of next week. Others are hoping for
results by March 20th. There is not a certain date when or IF an agreement
will be reached. The meeting are with the presidents of associations related
to mountaineering, trekking, travel trade and even defense.
One idea that has been suggested is to climb
Nuptse and go till camp 2 and then climb Everest if and after it is reopened..
Nuptse could be dangerous...
The North side of Everest: It appears one
needs to make plans to go to
Shishapangma and then head to Everest after the Chinese summit and wish the
Chinese well on having a fast, safe and quick climb of the mountain.
Uncertainly grows with the day,
on when and if the mountain will be reopened and on what "terms". E-mails to
the Chinese asking on what happens if the Chinese don't summit by May 10th go
Mt Everest is closed for
And just when you thought
things could not get worst: The State Dept sends out this message...
U.S. Embassy Warden
Message: Reports of
Violence in Tibet
This Warden Message is to
advise Americans of reports of rioting in Lhasa, Tibet. Some U.S.
news media are reporting violence associated with protests in the city of
Lhasa. The Embassy has received first-hand reports from American
citizens in the city who report gunfire and other indications of violence.
American citizens in Tibet and
especially in Lhasa are advised to avoid areas where demonstrations are
taking place. U.S. citizens in Lhasa should seek safe havens in hotels
and other buildings and remain indoors to the extent possible. All care
should be taken to avoid unnecessary movement within the city until the
situation is under control. Americans who were planning on travel to
Tibet are advised to defer travel at this time.
Everest from the South Side
Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350
This is a
picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest. Base camp is located
at 17,500 feet. This is where climbers begin their true trip up the
mountain. This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the
expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary. Many organizations
offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically
challenging (though you must be very fit).
camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to
the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and
forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall. This training and
recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often
being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to
train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push.
is in constant motion. It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than
houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall
at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and
listen to continuous ice creaking below. This often acts as a testing ground
to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing. The
Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.
Camp I -
Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet.
Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the
climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.
between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm. As the climbers reach
Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support
at Base camp. Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to
stay in contact.
Camp II -
climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a
27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest). The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny
icy wall. Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip
could mean a climber's life. Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives
through such mishaps.
Camp III -
23,700 feet (7200 meters)
To reach Camp
III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice
demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many
Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to
stay on the Lhotse Face.
Camp IV -
26,300 feet (8000 meters)
As youíre leaving C4Öitís a
little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are
typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along
with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad,
and thereís not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately
itís not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually
tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the
right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of
wind. Thereís a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of
the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase
there as youíre getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can
create some footing issues during the rappel, because itís impossible to see
over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to
leave Camp 4 without gas, as itís easier to keep moving down the Spur when
itís important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are
going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of
a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some
lower ledges which arenít so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid.
At this point, itís just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind
has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to
the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.
which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers' first
overnight stay in the Death Zone. The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet.
Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude
that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body
slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone." The
longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high
altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death
will occur. Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude
and above. Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will
travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.
Camp IV is
located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push. It
is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations. It is also
a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts
(both successful and not). Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here
with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.
From Camp IV,
climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at
28,800 feet. The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir.
Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first
people to summit Everest. The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed
ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time.
Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced
climbers, at Everest's altitude, it is considered the most technically
challenging aspect of the climb.
29,028 feet (8848 meters)
climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the
summit at 29,028 feet. The summit sits at the top of the world. Though not
the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak
on earth. Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than
one third the oxygen as at sea level. If dropped off on the summit directly
from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes.
Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their
composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as
possible. The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from
achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great
accomplishment at that moment.
readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the
climb to the summit.
Pictures from Enrique
Guallart-Furio web site http://ww2.encis.es/avent/
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