One of our favorite pictures: a climber
up high getting ready to go for it in 2004 ©EverestNews.com
Hello everyone and greetings
from New Zealand, Giannina and I are all packed and ready to fly in the
morning for Kathmandu, Nepal.
The journey has be changed
from the North side of Everest to the South side within the past few weeks do
to the Tibetan/Chinese situation in Lhasa and over the Olympic torch being
taken to the summit or near it by just the Chinese climbers. No one else is
allowed to be on the North side or even near the summit of Everest between the
1st of April to the 10th of May, while the torch is being taken up to it's
highest point. Then after this time we are allowed to summit. All will be in
place for Tim Burns, from Dallas, Texas, and I to push our camp to the 8000
meter Col for us to make our summit climb, most likely around the 20-25th of
We are flexible and focused
with this goal. Not using any Sherpas or 02 will be the main goal for us and
we are ready to make this happen.
Please join us while we climb
Everest, you can log into www.everestnews.com at
anytime and read about our ascent and others. I will write short blogs to
time to time. It will not be everyday since we will be doing a lot of climbing
and acclimatizing to prepare ourselves for the summit. Giannina will be around
Base Camp and she will also write a few blogs from time to time.
Sending you all our very best
energy, filled with adventure, light and happiness. Next time we'll send in
some words from Kathmandu.
All the best, cheers, Marty,
Giannina and Tim.
Marty Schmidt is off to Everest again... "I have a 1 to 1 ratio, we are
heading for the North ridge, no Sherpas and no 02. Making a higher mark to
reach for I see a growing problem with too many people sucking 02 to low, up
to 12 bottles now....." Marty, tell EverestNews.com
"Working hard is the only way to summit 8000 meter summits. People are
forgetting how to work up high...", Marty
MSIG's Awards and Achievements
Awards and Achievements:
- SUS Air Force Air Medal 1984, for rescuing 9 people from
a burning hotel fire in the Philippines.
- Guided 71 year old client to the summit of Denali in 1988
(the oldest person to have summitted Denali to date).
- Climbed a new route on the northeast face of Everest,
from the Tibetan side, in 1994.
- Selected as a member of an International climbing team to
climb K2 in 1992.
- Rescued members of other teams while on Denali, Alaska,
USA; Aconcagua, Argentina; Mt. Everest, Tibet.
- K2 expedition in 2000 with International team to within
meters of the top of K2.
- First American to summit the southwest face on
- Second New Zealander to have ever summited Kangchenjunga
(the first Kiwi was Norman Hardie in 1955).
- World speed record on Cho Oyu on 28 September 2001 in 10
hours, 45 minutes from ABC to summit.
- On 24 September, 2004 on Cho Oyu, Tibet, summited a
client with no O2 being used and no Sherpa support. Then helped rescue a man
in his 50's from Camp II to Camp I who was having a very hard time at the
7000 meter mark. After 20 hours rest at ABC, I headed back up for a 13 hour
ascent, using no fixed lines, no O2, no support, carrying all my own ski
gear. Then skied from the summit to the end of the snow at Camp I in 3
hours. The snow conditions were the worst, breakable 30mm wind slab crust,
that boil plated with most turns. The 10 meter rock band and vertical ice
serac were the most technical parts to ski off of. Only a few people in the
world have skied from the summit of an 8000 meter mountain.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.