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We (Alex Abramov and 7 Summits Club)
have the news about summitting Cartsensz Pyramid.
The first Russian commercial expedition
to Carstencz [Puncak Jaya] started on 9th of February. There are 6 persons in
the team under leadership of Alex Abramov. His old friends Dmitry Moskalev
(from Moscow) and Karo Ovasapyan (California) have made already Seven Summits
(with Kosciuszko). A married couple Dmitry Mokhnachev and Nadejda
Voskresenskaya have already climbed Elbrus, Vinson and Kilimanjaro. A new
person - is Darius Vajciulis one of Discovery Everest heroes.
Alex Abramov already led an expedition
to Carstensz in 1995, then five persons climbed the summit (among them famous
climber and base-jumper Valery Rozov). But Alex was involved in a rescue work
with indonesian climbers and had to cancel his own climb.
Below is the news:
ALEX ABRAMOV AND 7 SUMMITS CLUB TEAM
SUMMITTED CARSTENSZ PYRAMID!!!
  
February 28 4 members of 7 Summits Club stood on top of
Carstensz Pyramid (4884m). The way there was very difficult. Here are the
details: Feb 23, Alexandr Abramov informed that porter team of indigenous
locals who`d been escorting expedition was armed with bows and arrows to hunt
and to prevent surprise attack of the hostile tribes. But for the third time
since expedition had started from Sugapa porters refused to escort the group
demanding a wage rise. Negotiations took time and expedition didn`t fulfill
the planned itinerary - half-day trek took two days. While threading the trail
through deep deep rain forest members of the Adventure Team tasted local
animals - Phalangers aka cuscuses – small marsupials but with a vague
resemblance to some monkeys. 24.02 Once the tropical rain forest was left
behind the group started crossing a wide marshy plateau 3600 m high that leads
to the base of Carstensz Pyramid. Suddenly, while crossing the plateau,
Alexander Abramov fell into a crack covered with the dense grass and almost 35
meters deep. He tried to catch the roots and grass with his hands while
falling but to no effect, when he suddenly hanged by ....his umbrella above an
abyss, calling for help. The umbrella was fasten to his backpack and got stuck
in the root interlacing saving his life. At once 3 porters dove into the crack
holding each other and pulled Alexander out. So a new geological peculiarity
of the region close to the base of Carstensz Pyramid was discovered that had
not been described before to prevent travelers. On 26.02 Adventure Team
reached Base Camp at 4000 m and said good-by to their porter team that set off
for their return way. The summit was covered with the mist, and the night
before the ascent was rainy so the tents became frosted and rocks to climb
were covered with ice. On 28.02 at 10:30 local time the members of the
Alpindustria Adventure Team & 7 Summit Club were on summit. The ascent was
quite demanding: all ropes were covered with snow and somewhere with ice. But
it took only 9 hours to climb – almost a record, as normally it takes from 12
to 24 hours to reach the summit. All members feel well and planning their
return way by helicopter.
 
On to
Everest 2008
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