Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  Miura Everest 2008 Yuichiro Miura changes route to Mt Everest Nepal for Miura Qomolangma 2008 Project


Yuichiro Miura and Team Miura have decided to change its route for Qomolangma (Everest) ascent to Nepal from its original plan of taking its course from China. 

Yuichiro Miura has been preparing the ascent of Qomolangma from the Chinese side with his record breaking age of 75 this spring with his second son Gota (age 38). However, due to the civil unrest in Tibetan plateau erupting in mid March, the Tibetan area had been restricted of its entrance, and the team was unable to proceed to Qomolangma Base Camp area on April 5th in accordance to the original plan.

It is still unknown for all foreign expeditions to Mt. Qomolangma including Team Miura as to when the area will be cleared for entrance.

In ascending the world’s highest peak Mt. Everest (8848m), having ample time is crucial for acclimatization and transferring of goods to higher camps. Weather condition also restricts the window of opportunity for ascent to a certain period in May in this season, as wind jet streams of more than 40m/s lingers in extremely high altitude above 8000m at this time of the year and monsoon season soon arrives after late May.

Thus, setting of base camp by late April at the latest is necessary, and Team Miura had been considering the option of changing the route to the Nepalese side in case the entrance to Tibetan area leading to Qomolangma base camp did not clear in time. As the time ran out, Team Miura had officially applied for the climbing permit to Nepal yesterday on April 6th. 

After the 2003 Everest ascent as the oldest summiter at age 70 years and 7 months at the time, Yuichiro Miura had been suffering serious case of arrhythmia (irregular heartbeat) and arterial fibrillation (irregular shaking of atrium) and had undergone two arrhythmia operations (Catheter Ablation). Yet to fulfill his dream of standing on the highest peak of the world once again, he had been training and gone to four training expeditions in the past 4 years, targeting his personal peak both physically and mentally to the ascent in spring 2008.

After departing Japan on March 20th, his first acclimatization trekking in Nepal to 5000m point in altitude was a great success as his condition was at its best in the past 4 years. 

The ascent from Nepalese side will not be easy this year, as the climbing activities will be restricted until the Chinese Olympic Torch expedition succeeds in its summit, and the area is expected to be heavily congested as many expeditions that originally planned the Chinese route are changing its course to Nepal just like Team Miura. Yet, with Yuichiro’s strong will and motivation of “We are here to climb, so we will” spirit prevails within the team, and will not give up its long desired dream to summit the highest peak on earth. 

Team Miura will depart Kathmandu for Lukra(2800m) on April 8th, before the Nepalese constituent assembly election, and will arrive at the Everest Base Camp (5300m) on April 21st, after 13 days of 60km Caravan. Since the climbing activities are currently restricted on Everest up to Camp 2 (6400m) until May 10th, acclimatization will be conducted to C2, and will attempt for the summit according to the weather after May 10th. 

Team Miura would like to express deep appreciation to many people including Chinese Embassy in Japan who have expended their utmost care and effort for our expedition, and also a heartfelt wish for peace in Tibet and China.

Earlier: Yuichiro and Gota Miura Departs for Final Conditioning and Training at Qomolangma ABC (Advanced Base Camp; 6400m) in Anticipation for Miura Qomolangma 2008

Project: Only six months left to the launch of Miura Qomolangma 2008 Project, Team Miura is on their final training to the start. Yuichiro Miura (Age 75) and Gota Miura (Age 38) will conduct their final training and conditioning at the Qomolangmas Advanced Base Camp (6400m) and its higher Camp for 1 month from October 10th, 2007.

Immediately after the summiting of Mt Everest at age 70 years and 7 months in 2003, Yuichiro Miura has drawn up his next adventure of summiting Mt Everest (Qomolangma) from the Chinese side at age 75, challenging the limit of human capacity and ability. However, soon after his return, he had suffered serious arrhythmia (irregular heartbeat) and arterial fibrillation (irregular shaking of arteries) due to aging and severe physical activities from climbing the Everest. These symptoms are not rare, as one in every four elderly experience them, in which their risks can be minimized with appropriate medication under normal living circumstances. However, under a severe condition in high altitudes over 8000m where the oxygen concentration level is extremely low, the risks of arrhythmia and arterial fibrillation are tremendously high and difficult to control. Thus, Yuichiro decided to undergo an arrhythmia operation (Catheter Abberation) last December and went on a training expedition to Island Peak in the Himalayas this spring to examine his health progress. Unfortunately, his arrhythmia was again observed in a high altitude condition, hence, Yuichiro underwent his second arrhythmia operation this June soon after his return. Both operations were operated by the team headed by Doctor Iesaka, the world pioneer of arrhythmia treatment, and Doctor Uno of Tsuchiura Kyodo General Hospital, and Doctor Kobayashi and Doctor Koyama of Nippon Medical School. With a close observation and treatment, and with continual training, Yuichiros physical ability and health had recovered to the point where he was at when he summited Everest at age 70, results observed after physical fitness test conducted at National Institute of Fitness and Sports in Kanoya this late September.

Gota Miuras detailed report on this subject is as follows:

Gota Miuras Report on Physical Fitness Test at National Institute of Fitness and Sports in Kanoya (September 24th & 25th, 2007)

Yuichiro and Gota Miura underwent a two-day physical fitness test at National Institute of Fitness and Sports in Kanoya under the supervision of Professor Masayoshi Yamamoto on September 24th and 25th.

Kanoyas physical fitness tests have been conducted every year since year 2000, and aim to observe Yuichiros long-term physical changes caused by aging.

The main objectives of this time physical test were to examine how the two Catheter Abberation operations have influenced Yuichiros physical fitness, and to compare his current fitness level to his fitness level observed immediately before departing to Everest expedition in 2003.

It was observed that the Volume O2 Maximum (VO2Max) was most influenced physical fitness value by the two Catheter Abberation operations. VO2Max is an indicator of an individuals aerobic capacity, thus determining its endurance level.

In 2003 before the summit of Mt Everest, Yuichiros VO2Max was 32.08ml/kg/min. This amount exceeded the average VO2 Max value of the age 70s, which is 27.7ml/kg/min, and his estimated age equivalent to the VO2Max value at the time was age 56. However, due to his arrhythmia and arterial fibrillation observed soon after the summit, his VO2Max decreased to 27.9ml/kg/min, a 16% decrease in aerobic capacity, equating to the average amount of his age 74. This result was explained as due to Yuichiros heavy load activity that limited his cardiac output (blood outflow from the heart), triggering arterial fibrillation.

Yet, after undergoing two operations, Yuichiros arterial fibrillation was almost fully controlled, and he was freed from the medication, which he was on for more than a year to control the heart rate and the rhythm.

As a result, his VO2Max valued up to 32.7ml/kg/min, a higher mark than the value in 2003 before the Everest summit and more than 17% increase from the value observed in 2006.

This number indicates that his fitness level is in age 50s.

According to Dr. Iesaka and Dr. Uno who had operated on Yuichiro in both operations, this result was due to the improvements on Yuichiros cardiac output, as it had increased 20% since the operations.

Moreover, Yuichiros value for back strength and vertical jump showed a small but significant increase. This increase may have resulted from this summers two-week training camp that involved stretching, muscle training, and mountain climbing in Salt Lake City.

However, Prof. Yamamoto advised that Yuichiros leg extension and reduction values need to be improved considering maintaining leg muscle strength required for long climbing activities. Concentration in training on leg muscles will be anticipated.

In conclusion, physical fitness test showed significant increase in overall fitness, which is an astonishing outcome considering the fact that Yuichiro has aged 5 years since 2003.

With the success of arrhythmia operations, the safety level of mountain climbing activities can be said to have increased and the necessary physical fitness is attained for Yuichiros next challenge. The summit of Everest that seemed so far to reach until last year is alas in clear view.

Our main objectives now, are to reach ABC as safely and with less strain as possible in this final training expedition, and closely observe and maintain Yuichiros physical strength and fitness during his remaining period for acclimatization to the X Day in 2008, a valuable quest for ultimate physiological anti-aging.

Expedition Schedule:

2007 MIURA ABC Training Expedition Schedule

Period 07.Oct.10 Nov.3

Team Members Yuichiro Miura, Gota Miura, Kazuya Igarashi

Day Date Team Activity Altitude

1 Oct. 10 Narita - Kuangchou - Katmandu

2 11 Preparation in Katmandu

3 12 Preparation in Katmandu

4 13 Preparation in Katmandu

5 14 Katmandu - Rasa 3,800m

6 15 Acclimatization in Rasa Temple Village

7 16 Acclimatization in Rasa Temple Village

8 17 Rasa - Shigatse 3,800m

9 18 Shigatse - Shigarl 4,200m

10 19 Shigarl - BC 5,200m

11 20 BC Shigarl 4,200m

12 21 Acclimatization in Shigarl

13 22 Acclimatization in Shigarl

14 23 Shigarl - BC 5,200m

15 24 Rest at BC

16 25 Acclimatization at BC

17 26 BC-C 5,500m

18 27 C1-C 6,000m

19 28 C2-ABC-C 6,400m(ABC

20 29 C2-BC 5,100m

21 30 Rest at BC

22 31 Rest at BC

23 Nov.1 BC-C 5,500m

24 2 C1C 6,000m

25 3 CABC 6,400m

26 4 ABC

27 5 ABC (Reserve Day)

28 6 ABC (Reserve Day)

29 7 ABC-BC 5,200m

30 8 BC  Zanmu

31 9 Zanmu  Katmandu

32 10 Wrap-up in Katmandu

33 11 Wrap-up in Katmandu

34 12 Wrap-up in Katmandu

35 13 Kuangchou  Narita

 
A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
  
CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
  
Headlamps

   Hestra
  
Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
  
Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
  
Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
  
Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2005 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it