Yuichiro and Gota Miura: Everest 2008 Team Miura Summits Everest !!

Team Miura Summits Everest !!

(May 26, 2008 - 7:33 Nepal Time;10:48 Japan Time)

Yuichiro Miura (75), an internationally renowned professional skier and adventurer, and his Miura Qomolangma 2008 expedition team reached the summit of the world’s highest peak Mt. Everest (Chinese name-Mt. Qomolangma;

8848m) from the Nepalese South East Ridge Route today at 7:33 am Nepal Time.

Team departed Camp 5 (C5; 8400m) at 24:15 Nepal Time and summited after 7 hours of climbing.

Yuichiro Miura’s comment on the Summit (dispatch to BC):

“I’ve just reached the summit! Thank you!! It was definitely a harsh and challenging climb, but I am overwhelmed by joy and happiness. It is truly a blessing to be able to stand on the Everest summit twice even after I had become septuagenarian. The view is unbelievably wonderful. I can see everything and all the Himalaya giants are congratulating me!”

Summiting Members

Japanese

- Yuichiro Miura (75)

- Noriyuki Muraguchi (51)

- Kazuya Igarashi (48)

Climbing Sherpas

- Mr. Ngatemba Sherpa

- Mr. Nima Kancha

- Mr. Phur Gyalzen Sherpa

- Mr. Nima Nurubu Sherpa

- Mr. Ongje Sherpa

- Mr. Tamting Sherpa

- Mr. Tashi Sherpa

- Mr. Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa

Total of 11 Members

This time challenge for Yuichiro Miura was a challenge to his own limits; after being the oldest man to summit Everest at the time in 2003, Yuichiro Miura suffered severe case of arrhythmia (irregular heartbeat) and had undergone two heart surgeries in December 2006 and June 2007.

Yesterday (May 25th, 2008) a Nepalese septuagenarian Mr. Min Bahadur Sherchan had renewed the world record of oldest man to summit Everest at age 76. Although Yuichiro was not able to make that record, he has made another genre of record; Yuichiro Miura is the first and only man in the world to summit Mt. Everest twice as a septuagenarian. Furthermore, this summit marked the 5th Everest summit for Noriyuki Muraguchi, renewing his own record as most Everest summits as Japanese.

Yuichiro’s second son Gota Miura (38) who had been challenging for the same summit experienced early symptoms of HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema; type of mountain sickness) during the ascent to C5 (8400m) yesterday. With his father Yuichiro’s strong will, Gota made a courageous decision to forsake this time ascent. Gota safely descended to Camp 2 yesterday, and is scheduled to be back at BC today. His physical condition is well on its way to recovery.

Team Miura will descend to South Col Camp 4 (8000m) today, May 26th. The team is then scheduled to descend to Camp 2 (6450m) tomorrow, and be back at BC on Wednesday, May 28th.

Yuichiro Miura is scheduled to be back in Japan around June 3rd.

Earlier: Team Miura on C5 (May 25) 

Yuichiro Miura (75) and his team who departed Everest Base Camp (5360m) on May 20th has arrived to their last camp C5 (8300m) today at 13:50 Nepal Time (17:05 Japan Time).

However, Gota Miura experienced an early symptoms of HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) during the ascent to C5, thus with his father Yuichiro’s strong will, he has descended to C4 at 12:30 Nepal Time and is currently on his way down to C2 with 2 Sherpas.

Yuichiro Miura, Noriyuki Muraguchi, and Kazuya Igarashi, the remaining 3 summiting members and 3 Sherpas will stay at C5 today, and are scheduled to be on their summit push starting early morning tomorrow, May 26th weather and other conditions permitting.

Regarding Yuichiro Miura’s Arrythmia (Irregular Heartbeat) 

Currently, Dr. Yoshinori Kobayashi (Division of Cardiology, Department of Medicine, Nippon Medical School), a member of Miura’s doctor team, is on stand by at Tokyo office monitoring biometrics data sent from Everest including Electrocardiogram (ECG) data.

Dr. Kobayashi’s comment on yesterday’s ECG data taken during the climbing to C4 South Col (8000m) from C3:

“No significant change is observed in the ECG data taken during the climbing to South Col from the data taken at lower altitude of 6000m~7000m, thus no alarming arrhythmia is observed. Other biometrics data such as heart rate and SPO2 (blood oxygen concentration) also indicate very good condition. Furthermore, the AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) Score that measures the progress of acclimatization seems to be favorable overall. I wish the team all the best, hoping that this condition will be maintained throughout the summit bid.” 

Also, Yuichiro Miura commented in his dispatch to BC after hearing the news of Mr. Min Bahadur Sherchan's successful summit:

"Congratulations on the 76 year-old successful summit! As the same septuagenarian, I have also finally reached C5 after a challenging ascent. I will now try my best to reach the same summit, hopefully tomorrow."

 Yuichiro Miura and Mr. Min Bahadur Sherchan met with each other on May 16th at Everest Base Camp, wishing each other the best for fulfilling their dream to stand on Everest summit.

Further expedition updates will be sent as dispatches from base camp come in. 

Photos:

・ s-IMG_1547.jpg - Yuichiro Miura and Gota Miura at Camp 2 (May 21st )

・ s-IMG_1560.jpg - Yuichiro Miura on ascent to Camp 3 on Lotse (May 23rd )

・ s-IMG_1606.jpg - Yuichiro Miura at Camp 4 on dispatch to base camp (May 24th ) with Everest in the back

・ R0013206.jpg - Yuichiro Miura on the right, Mr. Min Bahadur Sherchan on the left (May 16th )

Emili Miura

Update: Gota is now at C2 :  Gota Miura experienced an early symptoms of HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) during the ascent to C5,. With his father Yuichiro’s strong  will, he has descended to C4 at 12:30 Nepal Time and has safely arrived at C2 with the help of 2 Sherpas at 18:00 Nepal Time. Although he still feels numb on his right hand and leg, have a slight headache, and feels extreme fatigue, he has recovered from alarming symptoms of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) well-advised by Dr. Kobayashi in Tokyo and Dr. Shiga in Everest Base Camp, and is on his way to full recovery. Yuichiro at C5 commented on Gota’s safe arrival to C2 in dispatch to BC: “The fact that Gota has safely arrived at C2 and is recovering makes me happier than myself making it to the summit!”

Yuichiro Miura, Noriyuki Muraguchi, and Kazuya Igarashi, the remaining 3 summiting members and 3 Sherpas will stay at C5 today, and are all in good condition. The team is scheduled to be on their summit push tomorrow starting 2400hr Nepal Time, May 26th, and their summiting time is estimated at around 6~7am Nepal time weather and other conditions permitting. Regards, Emili Miura

Earlier: Yuichiro and Gota Miura Departs for Final Conditioning and Training at Qomolangma ABC (Advanced Base Camp; 6400m) in Anticipation for Miura Qomolangma 2008

Project: Only six months left to the launch of Miura Qomolangma 2008 Project, Team Miura is on their final training to the start. Yuichiro Miura (Age 75) and Gota Miura (Age 38) will conduct their final training and conditioning at the Qomolangma’s Advanced Base Camp (6400m) and its higher Camp for 1 month from October 10th, 2007.

Immediately after the summiting of Mt Everest at age 70 years and 7 months in 2003, Yuichiro Miura has drawn up his next adventure of summiting Mt Everest (Qomolangma) from the Chinese side at age 75, challenging the limit of human capacity and ability. However, soon after his return, he had suffered serious arrhythmia (irregular heartbeat) and arterial fibrillation (irregular shaking of arteries) due to aging and severe physical activities from climbing the Everest. These symptoms are not rare, as one in every four elderly experience them, in which their risks can be minimized with appropriate medication under normal living circumstances. However, under a severe condition in high altitudes over 8000m where the oxygen concentration level is extremely low, the risks of arrhythmia and arterial fibrillation are tremendously high and difficult to control. Thus, Yuichiro decided to undergo an arrhythmia operation (Catheter Abberation) last December and went on a training expedition to Island Peak in the Himalayas this spring to examine his health progress. Unfortunately, his arrhythmia was again observed in a high altitude condition, hence, Yuichiro underwent his second arrhythmia operation this June soon after his return. Both operations were operated by the team headed by Doctor Iesaka, the world pioneer of arrhythmia treatment, and Doctor Uno of Tsuchiura Kyodo General Hospital, and Doctor Kobayashi and Doctor Koyama of Nippon Medical School. With a close observation and treatment, and with continual training, Yuichiro’s physical ability and health had recovered to the point where he was at when he summited Everest at age 70, results observed after physical fitness test conducted at National Institute of Fitness and Sports in Kanoya this late September.

Gota Miura’s detailed report on this subject is as follows:

Gota Miura’s Report on Physical Fitness Test at National Institute of Fitness and Sports in Kanoya (September 24th & 25th, 2007)

Yuichiro and Gota Miura underwent a two-day physical fitness test at National Institute of Fitness and Sports in Kanoya under the supervision of Professor Masayoshi Yamamoto on September 24th and 25th.

Kanoya’s physical fitness tests have been conducted every year since year 2000, and aim to observe Yuichiro’s long-term physical changes caused by aging.

The main objectives of this time physical test were to examine how the two Catheter Abberation operations have influenced Yuichiro’s physical fitness, and to compare his current fitness level to his fitness level observed immediately before departing to Everest expedition in 2003.

It was observed that the Volume O2 Maximum (VO2Max) was most influenced physical fitness value by the two Catheter Abberation operations. VO2Max is an indicator of an individual’s aerobic capacity, thus determining its endurance level.

In 2003 before the summit of Mt Everest, Yuichiro’s VO2Max was 32.08ml/kg/min. This amount exceeded the average VO2 Max value of the age 70’s, which is 27.7ml/kg/min, and his estimated age equivalent to the VO2Max value at the time was age 56. However, due to his arrhythmia and arterial fibrillation observed soon after the summit, his VO2Max decreased to 27.9ml/kg/min, a 16% decrease in aerobic capacity, equating to the average amount of his age 74. This result was explained as due to Yuichiro’s heavy load activity that limited his cardiac output (blood outflow from the heart), triggering arterial fibrillation.

Yet, after undergoing two operations, Yuichiro’s arterial fibrillation was almost fully controlled, and he was freed from the medication, which he was on for more than a year to control the heart rate and the rhythm.

As a result, his VO2Max valued up to 32.7ml/kg/min, a higher mark than the value in 2003 before the Everest summit and more than 17% increase from the value observed in 2006.

This number indicates that his fitness level is in age 50’s.

According to Dr. Iesaka and Dr. Uno who had operated on Yuichiro in both operations, this result was due to the improvements on Yuichiro’s cardiac output, as it had increased 20% since the operations.

Moreover, Yuichiro’s value for back strength and vertical jump showed a small but significant increase. This increase may have resulted from this summer’s two-week training camp that involved stretching, muscle training, and mountain climbing in Salt Lake City.

However, Prof. Yamamoto advised that Yuichiro’s leg extension and reduction values need to be improved considering maintaining leg muscle strength required for long climbing activities. Concentration in training on leg muscles will be anticipated.

In conclusion, physical fitness test showed significant increase in overall fitness, which is an astonishing outcome considering the fact that Yuichiro has aged 5 years since 2003.

With the success of arrhythmia operations, the safety level of mountain climbing activities can be said to have increased and the necessary physical fitness is attained for Yuichiro’s next challenge. The summit of Everest that seemed so far to reach until last year is alas in clear view.

Our main objectives now, are to reach ABC as safely and with less strain as possible in this final training expedition, and closely observe and maintain Yuichiro’s physical strength and fitness during his remaining period for acclimatization to the X Day in 2008, a valuable quest for ultimate physiological anti-aging.

Expedition Schedule:

2007 MIURA ABC Training Expedition Schedule

Period ：07.Oct.10 ～ Nov.１3

Team Members： Yuichiro Miura, Gota Miura, Kazuya Igarashi

Day Date Team Activity Altitude

1 Oct. 10 Narita - Kuangchou - Katmandu

2 11 Preparation in Katmandu

3 12 Preparation in Katmandu

4 13 Preparation in Katmandu

5 14 Katmandu - Rasa 3,800m

6 15 Acclimatization in Rasa Temple Village

7 16 Acclimatization in Rasa Temple Village

8 17 Rasa - Shigatse 3,800m

9 18 Shigatse - Shigarl 4,200m

10 19 Shigarl - BC 5,200m

11 20 BC Shigarl 4,200m

12 21 Acclimatization in Shigarl

13 22 Acclimatization in Shigarl

14 23 Shigarl - BC 5,200m

15 24 Rest at BC

16 25 Acclimatization at BC

17 26 BC-C１ 5,500m

18 27 C1-C２ 6,000m

19 28 C２-ABC-C２ 6,400m(ABC）

20 29 C２-BC 5,100m

21 30 Rest at BC

22 31 Rest at BC

23 Nov.1 BC-C１ 5,500m

24 2 C1C２ 6,000m

25 3 C２ABC 6,400m

26 4 ABC

27 5 ABC (Reserve Day)

28 6 ABC (Reserve Day)

29 7 ABC-BC 5,200m

30 8 BC  Zanmu

31 9 Zanmu  Katmandu

32 10 Wrap-up in Katmandu

33 11 Wrap-up in Katmandu

34 12 Wrap-up in Katmandu

35 13 Kuangchou  Narita

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