Everest 2009: Adventure Peaks : An Everest permit for Tibet !

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14th April Paul emailed in today. The team have now got the permit and are heading towards the border today. All being well they will cross over into Tibet tomorrow.

11th April Paul's just reported in from Kathmandu where the team are eating - again! The plan is to head north to Tibet first thing on Tuesday morning. With there prior acclimatisation it should only be a couple of days before they are settling in to Base Camp

9th April Hello from Namche, again! : Well a lot has happened in the last while, difficult to know where to start. The team still going strong and eating.......alot. I had always believed altitude put people off food, not this lot. Guest houses are desperately sending porters out to find more chocolate cake for Lianne and there will be a national tea shortage soon! Several members are now trying to find bigger down suits.  Yesterday we visited Ama Dablam base camp with members moving up to just under 5000 metres. Back at the Namaste Lodge we were greeted with the news that the Tibetan border has been opened. A few phone calls were made, then a big ( and probably first serious) discussion took place. We've decided to head down and will drive to the border early next week.
We will be in Lukla tomorrow and will fly as soon as possible to KTM.
As I sat eating breakfast this morning, who did I spy walking up the trail? (guess at this point......no you're wrong) Sir Chris Bonnington! Alan (chief blagger) was sent to offer tea. Sir Chris spent an hour with the team which was very enjoyable. He very much liked our plan to head North. I think he will probably like it more when he sees the tents on South side base camp. There is a lot of equipment and members heading up that way.
Everyone is well- we are very excited about stage 2 of our trip, I personally suspect they are only interested in eating breakfast in a KTM hotel. Paul Noble.

8th April The team have now reached Pangboche, the hometown of many of our High Altitude Sherpas, where they are staying at the tea house owned by Nuru & Sonam's family

6th April Andy Edwards emailed in today. The team went for a walk up to Khunde & Khumjung Monastery today, the highlight was a 30 second clearing in the cloud and a view of Everest, Lhotse & Nuptse. The group then went to visit Ang Temba Sherpa, the first sherpa to summit Kanchenjunga. Allan had climbed with his Grandson on Baruntse last year. They finished off the day with a visit to their favourite German bakery in Namche.

5th April Paul has emailed in from Namche. All the team are in good spirits and have enjoyed a bit of a rest after their long flight and early morning departure form Kathmandu. Although the only complaint from the team is that they are getting fat from all the food they are eating. Life has been tough for the team with only enough chocolate cake to go around the group at the bakery. They will rest at Namche tomorrow, before heading on further up the Khumbu.

Earlier: 2nd April The team have all arrived in Kathmandu and are all really excited about the Adventure that is about to begin. They had lunch at Northfields cafe and have had time for bit of shopping in Thamel. Due to the border not being open yet to Tibet they will fly to Lukla tomorrow and begin their acclimatization in the Khumbu. Once the border is open they will head back to Kathmandu and cross over into Tibet.

Earlier: Adventure Peaks is returning to Everest again in Spring 2009! Adventure Peaks has run several succesful Everest expeditions over the years...

The Team: Leader : Paul Noble

Climbers: Troy Aupperle, Andrew Edwards, Paul James, Lianne Noble, Chris Rudge, Jack Sutcliffe, Allan Thomas and Andrew Williams

Lhakpa Ri & North Col : Kevin Burt, Shelagh Duncan, Kerrie McMartin

They are expected to go North side...

Everest from the South Side in Nepal

Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350 meters)

This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest.  Base camp is located at 17,500 feet.   This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain.  This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary.  Many organizations offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically challenging (though you must be very fit). 

From base camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall.    This training and recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push. 

The Icefall is in constant motion.  It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and listen to continuous ice creaking below.  This often acts as a testing ground to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing.   The Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.

Camp I - 5900 meters

After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet.  Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.

The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm.  As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp.  Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.

Camp II - 6500 meters

As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest).  The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall.  Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber's life.  Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps. 

Camp III - 23,700 feet (7200 meters)

To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many  Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.

Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)

As you’re leaving C4…it’s a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately it’s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as you’re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as it’s easier to keep moving down the Spur when it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which aren’t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.

Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers' first overnight stay in the Death Zone.  The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet.  Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone."  The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur.  Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above.  Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.

Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push.  It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations.  It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not).  Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.

From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet.  The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest.  The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time.  Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest's altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.

Summit - 29,028 feet (8848 meters)

Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet.  The summit sits at the top of the world.  Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak on earth.  Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third the oxygen as at sea level.  If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes.  Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible.   The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.  

As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.

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