Everest 2009: Arun Expeditions team reached on Summit Mt. Everest

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20th May 2009: Time for cheering up on successful attempt of Mt. Everest by Gaurav Sharma of Rajasthan, India & Sherpas this morning at 6.45 am.

Starting last night from last camp/South Col, 8000m towards to the summit of the Mt. Everest, Gaurav and Sherpas reached to the summit of the Peak this morning 6.45am which is prefect timing for summit attempt. Mr. Gaurav Sharma alone with Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa and Mr. Pemba Sherpa were together reached to the top of the world. This is Lhakpa's fifth successful attempt on Mt. Everest and Pemba's fist even done 8000m successful attempt.

They are on the way back from summit of the peak; probably they will come done to Camp III for rest today and all the way done to BC next day.

Our second team is climbing up from Camp III to camp IV and will attempt the peak by late night today and planning to reach to the top by tomorrow early morning. This 2nd team includes Mr. Tapi Mra from Arunachal State of Indian and Mr. Karma Sherpa. Plus our two members of Mt. Lhotse from Sweden are also going to summit tomorrow morning. So we are waiting for another good news.

Till today, our complete team is 100% safe and no problem. Dawa Sherpa/Lama Arun HQ, KTM Office

13th May

Due to the unexpected changes on weather, our Summit plan has postponed. Weather in the mountain region is not favorable for summit attempt therefore
as per the weather forecast for summit plan; it will be done after 20th of May only. Our full set of team is absolutely fine and taking rest at base camp and around.


8th May 2009

Our team is preparing for summit attempt therefore they are taking rest at base camp. For the summit attempt plan Mr. Gaurav Sharma will leave base camp 9th May and have plan to reach to the TOP on 13th May morning time before 10 am. He is assisting by Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa, 4times Everest summiteers.

Similarly Mr. Tapi Mra is planning to leave base camp on 10th May. Tapi is going to make the history in Indian Mountaineering Expeditions. He is going to be climbed the Mt. Everest without stopping overnight any where within 24 hours time staring from base camp to TOP/SUMMIT of Mt. Everest. If he will able to complete this mission then he will be the fastest Indian Climber to climb Mt. Everest.

Plus during the climbing period he will take some help form his Sherpa only as back up support above Camp III. Therefore i wish him for his successfully mission.

News from Arun HQ Kathmandu
Dawa Lama


28th Apr.

I had conversation yesterday to Base Camp, every one is fine and fit. Gaurav & Tapi at base camp taking rest, Lars & Laila at Camp II.

Climbing route from Camp II to last camp/South Col is all most opened and Sherpas are busy to load ferry to Camp III and Camp IV. Within couple of days time team will proceed to Camp II and slowly to Camp III.

Dawa from HQ office in KTM


20th Apr.

As per the latest news from Everest Base Camp that Ice fall has already fixed. My team has gone up to Camp II without any problem. They made their safe way up to Camp II and also already decent to Base Camp to have couple of days rest. Now they are looking forward for route opening further up from Camp II. Route might be open from 25th Apr depending on weather in them mountain.

Every one is same and doing very good yet.


Mt Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2009

On our team, there are 5 expedition members in total, two for Mt Everest & 3 for Mt Lhotse.

Mr. Tapi Mra from Arunachal Pradesh, India. He is representing from one of the hill station state of India Arunachal Pradesh. 

Mr. Gaurav Sharma from Rajasthan, another state of India. If both of them reach to the summit of Everest then they will be the first person to be reach on top of Mt. Everest from their own states.

There are other 2 Swedish Mr. Lars Svens and Laila climbing on Mt. Lhotse. Plus the last one Mr. Reyno Skar from South Africa, he has plans to go up to
Camp III only.

Mr. Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa, 4 times Everest summiteers is leading the team.

 

Everest from the South Side in Nepal

Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350 meters)

This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest.  Base camp is located at 17,500 feet.   This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain.  This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary.  Many organizations offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically challenging (though you must be very fit). 

From base camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall.    This training and recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push. 

The Icefall is in constant motion.  It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and listen to continuous ice creaking below.  This often acts as a testing ground to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing.   The Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.

Camp I - 5900 meters

After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet.  Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.

The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm.  As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp.  Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.

Camp II - 6500 meters

As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest).  The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall.  Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber's life.  Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps. 

Camp III - 23,700 feet (7200 meters)

To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many  Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.

Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)

As you’re leaving C4…it’s a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately it’s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as you’re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as it’s easier to keep moving down the Spur when it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which aren’t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.

Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers' first overnight stay in the Death Zone.  The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet.  Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone."  The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur.  Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above.  Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.

Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push.  It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations.  It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not).  Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.

From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet.  The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest.  The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time.  Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest's altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.

Summit - 29,028 feet (8848 meters)

Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet.  The summit sits at the top of the world.  Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak on earth.  Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third the oxygen as at sea level.  If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes.  Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible.   The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.  

As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.

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