7 Summit Everest expedition 2010: big avalanche

26/04/2010 14:52

At 2:30 p.m., Chinese time, a big avalanche came down from the North Col of Everest. In the opinion of witnesses, a snow cornice was broken on the crest above the North Col. At this time, about 100 people were on fixed ropes. The avalanche grazed the edge of fixed ropes. According to an eyewitness, sirdar "7 Summits Club" Mingma Gelu, they could see from the camp ABC that search and rescue operations began.

More precise information in one hour: no member of the expedition 7 Summits Club was next to these accident. According to preliminary information, 2 Hungarian climbers fell under the avalanche. One of them have taken already to the camp ABC, he is alive. The second climber has not yet been found.

Our Everest team approved the following plan of action.

28.04 - Intermediate Camp.

29.04 - go to camp ABC

30.04 � rest and training at Camp ABC

May 1 - climb to the North Col. (overnight stay at an altitude of 7000 meters)

May 2 - descent into the camp ABC

May 3-4 - rest in ABC

May 4 - the rise in the North Col. (overnight)

May 5 - exit at the height of 7800 meters and descend to camp ABC

May 6 - descent to the Base Camp.

Earlier: Yesterday team 7 Summits left Base Camp for the first time to move up...

Yesterday team 7 Summits left Base Camp for the first time to move for the night up to the intermediate base camp (IBC) at 5800 meters (approx 19,000 feet). Under the new expedition concept developed by Abramov over the past two years, the group moved in lock step, slowly to the destination. The new concept is part of Abramov's safety first initiative, to ensure that no one is lost on the mountain, and should an unfortunate accident occur, guides, sherpas, and team members are around to help.

The team left after breakfast yesterday at 11:30 local time, with everyone arriving around 18:00, just before dinner. The slow pace was designed to keep everyone together and allow everyone to arrive fresh and without any major altitude issues.

Having been in Alex's Everest program in 2005, I noticed immediately the improvement in IBC services; new tents, heated dining facilities, electricity, and toilet tents. I must say that I dreaded always going through IBC, because it was always cold and the accomodation, spartan. It was a shock to come back to IBC and see that although the camp had shifted 50 meters up the glacier, almost a world of difference exists in the services there.

We had a grand dinner, and sat around the table discussing in comfort various topics; cutting the ropes on our least favorite teammates seemed to come up quite often :) ... Some in the group played cards and others quietly drank tea until approximately 22:00 when we turned out the lights and cut off the heaters.

Fully hydrated and well fed, the team slept through the night until the sun hit our tents at around 09:00 today. Again a great meal was prepared and we packed our things and returned to Base Camp. The team left IBC at 10:00 and we wound our way back down the East Rongbuk Glacier descending 600 meters over 12 kilometers under blue skies. Just past the Yak camp where the East Rongbuk meets the main Rongbuk glacier, we had wonderful views again of Pumori and Everest's North Face. A giant Lenticular Cloud had formed over Everest's peak, causing pause and photographs to be taken.

We are now back in Base Camp, having just finished a late lunch, everyone queueing for the showers. We will have the next three nights here to complete stage 1 of the acclimatisation process in the expedition. Afterwards, our plan is to head up to Advanced Base Camp and spend 1 night there and return. While I would love to share the rest of our plans with you, I want to make sure everyone knows that there must be some flexibility in expedition planning, therefore I will only communicate 3-4 days of plans in advance.

Earlier: On Sunday leader of the International Everest Expedition Seven Summits Club Alexander Abramov flew to Nepal. Guides and climbers arrive later in early April, and while President of our Club will hold the necessary organizational and protocol events that precede the expedition. This year we return to Tibet, which poses the usual problems: obtaining permits, providing transportation and so on. On Monday Alexander arrived in Delhi. It is a temporary stop, as the Kathmandu airport was closed due to bad weather.

After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side of Everest where the formation of our company was taken place. Here we gained experience, filled lumps, learned and developed our own standards of service. This experience, we consider invaluable to ensure the safe and most reliable climbing the highest mountain in the world. We have a lot to be proud of. In recent years, nearly all members of our team reached the top, our camp (base and intermediate) are among the best on the slopes of Everest, our tents are heated, which significantly reduces risk of disease, we work with a constant group of Sherpas, who are our close friends, and fully understand all our requirements and rules. In our group there are two physician etc�

Expedition leader, president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov go to the Everest for the tenth time, to his credit three successful ascents. He will lead his seventh expedition to the highest summit of the world. Deputy leader - Nicholai Cherny his first attempt to climb Mount Everest made in 1982. At the top he was twice. In recent years, Nicholai is acting as the senior coach of national Russian expeditions to the highest mountain in the world: Lhotse Middle, Everest North Face, K2 West Face.

Climbers from Poland take part in our expedition, they are mother and son. Their joint ascent may be a record.

Group with permits to the North Col (7000 meters) within the framework of preparations for the ascent to the summit in 2011

North Col avalanche: the first information