Today, May, 16 in the morning, leader of the 7 Summits Club
Everest expedition Alexander Abramov, Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and
two mountain porters Nima Wangdi and Pemba Nurbah climbed Northern summit of
Everest (Changtse, 7550 m) along the Southern Ridge. The climb took 6 hours,
the route was quite difficult, according to our classification 4B - 5A
category of difficulty. Alexander Abramov has compared it with classic route
on Khan-Tengri from the Saddle . A lot of mixed climbing using ice tools, ice
screws. "Difficult climb, we are tired. But I'm happy. I admired this summit
since 2000. In 10 years no one climbed it. But it is also Everest, although
Northern ! "
The group descended on the North Col (7000 m.), the
In 2008, the year of the Olympics in Beijing, the Chinese announced that they
provided cell phones to camp ABC (6500m). This was called "China Mobile". So
it was - they put on from BC to ABC 4-5 powerful repeaters. All repeaters
except one, are on the slopes of the mountains surrounding the valley and it
is hard to pin down. Therefore, up to the Middle Camp there is a very good
But above the Middle Camp, we found on the trail broken by
someone, probably by Tibetan yaksmen, amplifying station (repeater). Solar
pelted with stones, antenna and cables were plucked out of touch. Who do it ?
Now there is no mobile in the ABC camp, because the signal is fed from the
amplifier to an amplifier, and now the chain is broken.
Training in the area of the camp ABC.
During the acclimatization ascent, we surveyed the route of ascent on the
southern ridge of the North summit of Everest (Changtsze).
Earlier: North Col avalanche: the first information
At 2:30 p.m., Chinese time, a big
avalanche came down from the North Col of Everest. In the opinion of
witnesses, a snow cornice was broken on the crest above the North Col.
At this time, about 100 people were on fixed ropes. The avalanche grazed
the edge of fixed ropes. According to an eyewitness, sirdar "7 Summits
Club" Mingma Gelu, they could see from the camp ABC that search and
rescue operations began.
information in one hour: no member of the expedition 7 Summits Club was
next to these accident. According to preliminary information, 2
Hungarian climbers fell under the avalanche. One of them have taken
already to the camp ABC, he is alive. The second climber has not yet
Our Everest team approved the following plan of
28.04 - Intermediate Camp.
29.04 - go to camp ABC
30.04 – rest and training at Camp ABC
May 1 - climb to the North Col. (overnight stay at an
altitude of 7000 meters)
May 2 - descent into the camp ABC
May 3-4 - rest in ABC
May 4 - the rise in the North Col. (overnight)
May 5 - exit at the height of 7800 meters and descend
to camp ABC
May 6 - descent to the Base Camp.
Earlier: Yesterday team 7 Summits left Base Camp for the first time
to move up...
Yesterday team 7 Summits left Base Camp for the first time
to move for the night up to the intermediate base camp (IBC) at 5800 meters
(approx 19,000 feet). Under the new expedition concept developed by Abramov
over the past two years, the group moved in lock step, slowly to the
destination. The new concept is part of Abramov's safety first initiative, to
ensure that no one is lost on the mountain, and should an unfortunate accident
occur, guides, sherpas, and team members are around to help.
The team left after breakfast yesterday at 11:30 local time,
with everyone arriving around 18:00, just before dinner. The slow pace was
designed to keep everyone together and allow everyone to arrive fresh and
without any major altitude issues.
Having been in Alex's Everest program in 2005, I noticed
immediately the improvement in IBC services; new tents, heated dining
facilities, electricity, and toilet tents. I must say that I dreaded always
going through IBC, because it was always cold and the accomodation, spartan.
It was a shock to come back to IBC and see that although the camp had shifted
50 meters up the glacier, almost a world of difference exists in the services
We had a grand dinner, and sat around the table discussing
in comfort various topics; cutting the ropes on our least favorite teammates
seemed to come up quite often :) ... Some in the group played cards and others
quietly drank tea until approximately 22:00 when we turned out the lights and
cut off the heaters.
Fully hydrated and well fed, the team slept through the
night until the sun hit our tents at around 09:00 today. Again a great meal
was prepared and we packed our things and returned to Base Camp. The team left
IBC at 10:00 and we wound our way back down the East Rongbuk Glacier
descending 600 meters over 12 kilometers under blue skies. Just past the Yak
camp where the East Rongbuk meets the main Rongbuk glacier, we had wonderful
views again of Pumori and Everest's North Face. A giant Lenticular Cloud had
formed over Everest's peak, causing pause and photographs to be taken.
We are now back in Base Camp, having just finished a late
lunch, everyone queueing for the showers. We will have the next three nights
here to complete stage 1 of the acclimatisation process in the expedition.
Afterwards, our plan is to head up to Advanced Base Camp and spend 1 night
there and return. While I would love to share the rest of our plans with you,
I want to make sure everyone knows that there must be some flexibility in
expedition planning, therefore I will only communicate 3-4 days of plans in
Earlier: On Sunday leader of the International Everest Expedition
Seven Summits Club Alexander Abramov flew to Nepal. Guides and climbers arrive
later in early April, and while President of our Club will hold the necessary
organizational and protocol events that precede the expedition. This year we
return to Tibet, which poses the usual problems: obtaining permits, providing
transportation and so on. On Monday Alexander arrived in Delhi. It is a
temporary stop, as the Kathmandu airport was closed due to bad weather.
After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our
club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for
the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side
of Everest where the formation of our company was taken place. Here we gained
experience, filled lumps, learned and developed our own standards of service.
This experience, we consider invaluable to ensure the safe and most reliable
climbing the highest mountain in the world. We have a lot to be proud of. In
recent years, nearly all members of our team reached the top, our camp (base
and intermediate) are among the best on the slopes of Everest, our tents are
heated, which significantly reduces risk of disease, we work with a constant
group of Sherpas, who are our close friends, and fully understand all our
requirements and rules. In our group there are two physician etc…
Expedition leader, president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander
Abramov go to the Everest for the tenth time, to his credit three successful
ascents. He will lead his seventh expedition to the highest summit of the
world. Deputy leader - Nicholai Cherny his first attempt to climb Mount
Everest made in 1982. At the top he was twice. In recent years, Nicholai is
acting as the senior coach of national Russian expeditions to the highest
mountain in the world: Lhotse Middle, Everest North Face, K2 West Face.
Climbers from Poland take part in our expedition, they are
mother and son. Their joint ascent may be a record.
List of members
Daniel MIZERA, Poland (1986)
Krzysztof Flawiusz GINALSLI, Poland (1971)
Malgorzata Bozena PIERZ-PEKALA, Poland (1957)
James de Witt WILDE USA (1970)
Zdravko DEJANOVIKJ, Macedonia (1965)
Elena Gorelik, Russia (1960)
Michail Karisalov, Russia, (1973)
Vadim Nadvornyuk, Russia (1970)
Mikhail Turovsky, Rossiyal (1961)
Andrew Filkov, Russia (1961)
Steven BERRY, UK (1955)
Alexander Abramov, Russia (1965) - expedition leader
Noel Hanna, Ireland (1964) guide
Maxim Bogatyrev, Russia (1975) guide
Nickolay Cherny (1938) - Deputy head of the expedition
Sergei Larin, Russia (1959) guide-doctor
Igor Pokhvalin, Ukraine (1957) guide-doctor
Group with permits to the North Col (7000 meters) within the
framework of preparations for the ascent to the summit in 2011
Andrew Luss, Russia (1960)
Alexander Perepelkin, Russia (1965)
Svetlana Slavnaya, Russia (1971)
Sergei Dudko, Russia (1964)
Dmitry Krasnov, Russia (1967)
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