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7 Summit Everest expedition 2010: The final result: 8 members, 2 guides and 10 Sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest


Today, all our members and guides descended to the base camp. The expedition ends. Several people have already left for Kathmandu. The final result: 8 members, 2 guides and 10 Sherpas reached the summit of Mount Everest. Thanks to the good work of Dr. Igor Pokhvalin, nobody was seriously ill. Thanks to all the guides, thanks to our Sherpa ! They have still a serious work on preservation of our equipment, tents and so on. Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny will lead this work. Others are already on vacation.

Dr. Igor Pokhvalin from Crimea - Everest Summiter, the first Ukrainien on the Seven Summits

Update 5/24 :The most stressful day of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition is coming to an end. All members, guides and Sherpas have found their place in the camps and rest. The first group completed went down to the base camp at 5200 meters. All are feeling well, vision problems, which are often at high altitude, as usual, during a descent were held without a trace. Most of the second group came down to a comfortable camp ABC. Only our women Malgorzata and Elena should spent night above, at 7700 m. With them stay our guides and Sherpas. Oxygen, drinking, drugs - all in abundance, until the morning all should recover and continue their journey. Now it will a way home. Let greetings for tomorrow. By the way, snow in the evening almost ended and in the morning it may be good weather.

Update 5/24 : The second group is on the top: At 9:30 a.m. local time, our second group reached the highest peaks of planet, through heavy snow and wind. Now they began to descend, everything is OK. In the area of North Col fell about 30 cm of snow. Perhaps the weather on Everest finally broke down and it was the last chance.

Update 5/23: First climber of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the top of Everest at about 6:00 a.m.. As a result, today following climbers were on the summit: Noel Hanna (guide, Ireland), Steve Berry (UK), James Wilde (USA), Mikhail Turovsky (Russia, Pyatigorsk), Andrey Filkov (Russia, Moscow), Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and four other Sherpas. Total - 10 people! Unfortunately, Vadim Nadvodnyuk was forced to turn before reaching the summit because of problems with eyes. Currently, he and all the summiters have descended, they are in safe places. Some reached the camp ABC, some stay at the North Col. Our second group climbed the camp 8300 and is preparing now for a summit bid. Unfortunately, the weather is a little deteriorated, but there are chances of clearing in the night.

Group members: Guide Sergey Larin, Małgorzata Pierz-Penkala, Daniel Mizera (mother and son from Poland), Lena Gorelik (Moscow), Zdravko Dejanovic (Macedonia).

Earlier: Today, May, 16 in the morning, leader of the 7 Summits Club Everest expedition Alexander Abramov, Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and two mountain porters Nima Wangdi and Pemba Nurbah climbed Northern summit of Everest (Changtse, 7550 m) along the Southern Ridge. The climb took 6 hours, the route was quite difficult, according to our classification 4B - 5A category of difficulty. Alexander Abramov has compared it with classic route on Khan-Tengri from the Saddle . A lot of mixed climbing using ice tools, ice screws. "Difficult climb, we are tired. But I'm happy. I admired this summit since 2000. In 10 years no one climbed it. But it is also Everest, although Northern ! "

The group descended on the North Col (7000 m.), the expedition continues.

 

In 2008, the year of the Olympics in Beijing, the Chinese announced that they provided cell phones to camp ABC (6500m). This was called "China Mobile". So it was - they put on from BC to ABC 4-5 powerful repeaters. All repeaters except one, are on the slopes of the mountains surrounding the valley and it is hard to pin down. Therefore, up to the Middle Camp there is a very good mobile connection.

But above the Middle Camp, we found on the trail broken by someone, probably by Tibetan yaksmen, amplifying station (repeater). Solar pelted with stones, antenna and cables were plucked out of touch. Who do it ? Now there is no mobile in the ABC camp, because the signal is fed from the amplifier to an amplifier, and now the chain is broken.

Training in the area of the camp ABC. 

  

During the acclimatization ascent, we surveyed the route of ascent on the southern ridge of the North summit of Everest (Changtsze). 

 

 
 

Earlier: North Col avalanche: the first information

26/04/2010 14:52
 
At 2:30 p.m., Chinese time, a big avalanche came down from the North Col of Everest. In the opinion of witnesses, a snow cornice was broken on the crest above the North Col. At this time, about 100 people were on fixed ropes. The avalanche grazed the edge of fixed ropes. According to an eyewitness, sirdar "7 Summits Club" Mingma Gelu, they could see from the camp ABC that search and rescue operations began.

More precise information in one hour: no member of the expedition 7 Summits Club was next to these accident. According to preliminary information, 2 Hungarian climbers fell under the avalanche. One of them have taken already to the camp ABC, he is alive. The second climber has not yet been found.

Our Everest team approved the following plan of action.

28.04 - Intermediate Camp.

29.04 - go to camp ABC

30.04 – rest and training at Camp ABC

May 1 - climb to the North Col. (overnight stay at an altitude of 7000 meters)

May 2 - descent into the camp ABC

May 3-4 - rest in ABC

May 4 - the rise in the North Col. (overnight)

May 5 - exit at the height of 7800 meters and descend to camp ABC

May 6 - descent to the Base Camp.

 

 

Earlier: Yesterday team 7 Summits left Base Camp for the first time to move up...

Yesterday team 7 Summits left Base Camp for the first time to move for the night up to the intermediate base camp (IBC) at 5800 meters (approx 19,000 feet). Under the new expedition concept developed by Abramov over the past two years, the group moved in lock step, slowly to the destination. The new concept is part of Abramov's safety first initiative, to ensure that no one is lost on the mountain, and should an unfortunate accident occur, guides, sherpas, and team members are around to help.

The team left after breakfast yesterday at 11:30 local time, with everyone arriving around 18:00, just before dinner. The slow pace was designed to keep everyone together and allow everyone to arrive fresh and without any major altitude issues.

Having been in Alex's Everest program in 2005, I noticed immediately the improvement in IBC services; new tents, heated dining facilities, electricity, and toilet tents. I must say that I dreaded always going through IBC, because it was always cold and the accomodation, spartan. It was a shock to come back to IBC and see that although the camp had shifted 50 meters up the glacier, almost a world of difference exists in the services there.

 We had a grand dinner, and sat around the table discussing in comfort various topics; cutting the ropes on our least favorite teammates seemed to come up quite often :) ... Some in the group played cards and others quietly drank tea until approximately 22:00 when we turned out the lights and cut off the heaters.

 Fully hydrated and well fed, the team slept through the night until the sun hit our tents at around 09:00 today. Again a great meal was prepared and we packed our things and returned to Base Camp. The team left IBC at 10:00 and we wound our way back down the East Rongbuk Glacier descending 600 meters over 12 kilometers under blue skies. Just past the Yak camp where the East Rongbuk meets the main Rongbuk glacier, we had wonderful views again of Pumori and Everest's North Face. A giant Lenticular Cloud had formed over Everest's peak, causing pause and photographs to be taken.

 We are now back in Base Camp, having just finished a late lunch, everyone queueing for the showers. We will have the next three nights here to complete stage 1 of the acclimatisation process in the expedition. Afterwards, our plan is to head up to Advanced Base Camp and spend 1 night there and return. While I would love to share the rest of our plans with you, I want to make sure everyone knows that there must be some flexibility in expedition planning, therefore I will only communicate 3-4 days of plans in advance.

Earlier: On Sunday leader of the International Everest Expedition Seven Summits Club Alexander Abramov flew to Nepal. Guides and climbers arrive later in early April, and while President of our Club will hold the necessary organizational and protocol events that precede the expedition. This year we return to Tibet, which poses the usual problems: obtaining permits, providing transportation and so on. On Monday Alexander arrived in Delhi. It is a temporary stop, as the Kathmandu airport was closed due to bad weather.

Alex Abramov

 

After a two-year unavailability by political reasons, our club is back to the beloved Northern side of Everest. Although South Face for the year managed to become well loved. Nevertheless, it is on the Tibetan side of Everest where the formation of our company was taken place. Here we gained experience, filled lumps, learned and developed our own standards of service. This experience, we consider invaluable to ensure the safe and most reliable climbing the highest mountain in the world. We have a lot to be proud of. In recent years, nearly all members of our team reached the top, our camp (base and intermediate) are among the best on the slopes of Everest, our tents are heated, which significantly reduces risk of disease, we work with a constant group of Sherpas, who are our close friends, and fully understand all our requirements and rules. In our group there are two physician etc…

Expedition leader, president of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Abramov go to the Everest for the tenth time, to his credit three successful ascents. He will lead his seventh expedition to the highest summit of the world. Deputy leader - Nicholai Cherny his first attempt to climb Mount Everest made in 1982. At the top he was twice. In recent years, Nicholai is acting as the senior coach of national Russian expeditions to the highest mountain in the world: Lhotse Middle, Everest North Face, K2 West Face.

Climbers from Poland take part in our expedition, they are mother and son. Their joint ascent may be a record.

List of members

Daniel MIZERA, Poland (1986)

Krzysztof Flawiusz GINALSLI, Poland (1971)

Malgorzata Bozena PIERZ-PEKALA, Poland (1957)

James de Witt WILDE USA (1970)

Zdravko DEJANOVIKJ, Macedonia (1965)

Elena Gorelik, Russia (1960)

Michail Karisalov, Russia, (1973)

Vadim Nadvornyuk, Russia (1970)

Mikhail Turovsky, Rossiyal (1961)

Andrew Filkov, Russia (1961)

Steven BERRY, UK (1955)

Guides

Alexander Abramov, Russia (1965) - expedition leader

Noel Hanna, Ireland (1964) guide

Maxim Bogatyrev, Russia (1975) guide

Nickolay Cherny (1938) - Deputy head of the expedition

Sergei Larin, Russia (1959) guide-doctor

Igor Pokhvalin, Ukraine (1957) guide-doctor

Group with permits to the North Col (7000 meters) within the framework of preparations for the ascent to the summit in 2011

Andrew Luss, Russia (1960)

Alexander Perepelkin, Russia (1965)

Svetlana Slavnaya, Russia (1971)

Sergei Dudko, Russia (1964)

Dmitry Krasnov, Russia (1967)

 
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