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 Adventure Peak Everest 2010 : the winds pick up, interesting details


23rd May - 1.30 pm GM

We understand all team members are in one camp for the night. A full update in the morning

23rd May - 11.00 am GM

The following is all unconfirmed but likely to be correct (where names have not been mentioned that is because we haven't got that information). Please note we are dealing with communications in an extreme environment and where only limited information can be sent whilst protecting fingers etc)

Report by Heather at ABC

Josh, Andrew, and Max are on their way down to ABC now. We're expecting Max around 6pm and are expecting Josh and Andrew (and Keith? ) in the next 15 - 20 minutes or so.
Mark, Ian, (?) Pete and Simon are at 7800m with Matt Dickinson.  I'm not sure if Matt Snook is there or not... Keith is either at 7800 or on his way down to ABC with Josh.
We've just had some broken communication with Stu - unfortunately the radios between C3 and ABC give broken communication so we could only hear bits and pieces of the conversation. Things are not great in C3 and they have decided to stay the night there - this includes Stu, Nigel, Brendan, Steven +1 -- . There are 8 sherpas at C3 to assist Stu to assist everyone down tomorrow. The weather up there right now looks terrible and Matt Dickinson confirmed that conditions were extremely challenging. Having said that, the forecast for tomorrow looks good so hopefully the gusts will die down over the next few hours.
Sorry that I don't have more accurate news at this stage...
 
I'll definitely let you know if there are any developments. I'm not sure if Stu's phone works up at C3 but you may want to confirm this info with him - as I said, everything we get down here is really broken up and unclear.

Report by Heather at ABC

(please note camps are put in sheltered areas against the wind, so this unfortunately can hinder communication, Dave Pritt)

23rd May - 08.35am GM No news for definate in the last few hours, we are still waiting for Stu to give an update. It is understood however (not confirmed) that a number of team members turned round between 8600-8700m. All these are without doubt below the first step and probably in the high camp at 8300m. Geordie was the last person who may have made the summit before the turn around time. We await news. Dave Pritt

 

02.50pm GMT Matt Snook & Peter Sunnucks will be next, they are about 20minutes from Summit (stu is making his way down and will gradually report on each member). Also on summit Mingma Sherpa, Dorjee Khatri, Phurba Ridar Sherpa. Simon Price turned round and we believe he is at high camp (unconfirmed).

23rd May - 02.35pm GMT Stu telephoned from the summit, he is on the top with Brendan and their Sherpas! Max is very close behind and should be on top within the next 5minutes. Congratulations!

22nd May - 11.35pm GMT

Text from Stu at Second Step, he says weather is brilliant!

22nd May - 11.25pm GMT

Text from Stu at Second Step!

(Daves comment - so its about 3hrs to go)

22nd May - 8.30pm GMT

The team is on its way, text from Stu at First Step! (Good luck to all the team ...dave)

22nd May - 1.00pm GMT

The team made it to camp at 7800m late last night. The wind has reduced to only a light breeze throughout last night and into this morning, perfect conditions for allowing the team to set off at 9am (local time) this morning for their ascent up to camp 3 at 8300m, arriving at 3pm (local time).

The team are now resting at camp 3 (8300m) on oxygen and keeping hydrated. They will be departing camp 3 at 10.30pm (local time), aiming to reach the 'Second Step' for sunrise at around 4am (local time), then continue on to the summit for around 8am (local time).

Everyone is in good spirits, and eager for their summit attempt.

Earlier: The group continues to wait for a good weather forecast, although it appears there will be a small drop in summit winds around the 16-17th May it is likely we will wait for a more positive and defined window that appears to be forming for the period 23-26th. Dave Pritt

10th May All the team + 6 sherpa finally came down to BC on the 8th May. We are now all resting and waiting for the weather window to come in, When that might be is the big question. Apparently the rope fixing team have moved up to ABC and are planning to attempt final summit fix on the 16th. It's Heathers 34th Birthday tomorrow and it sounds like Stephen & Max have plans to celebrate the day with some sort of team orienteering activities around base camp...

The Team

Leader : Stu Peacock
Leader : Matt Dickinson

Scott Grischow Heather Geluk
Don Grischow Peter Sunnucks
Jantoon Reigersman Matt Snook
Josh Lewsey Brendan O'Mahoney
Keith Ressby Stephen Green
Ian Ridley Simon Price
Geordie Stewart Jonathan Davies
Nigel Williams Andrew Roberston
Max O'Meara Mark Walsh
Mickey Goldschmidt  

Sherpa Staff

Nuru Wangchhu Sherpa Dorjee Khatri
Sonam Dorjee Sherpa Nima Thundu Sherpa
Dawa Dorjee Sherpa Norbu Bhote
Tsring Namgyal Sherpa Chheten Sherpa
Phurba Ridar Bhote Lakpa Sherpa
Surendra Gurung Pasang Sherpa

Gyanu Lama B C cook.

Bhola Paudel - Sirdar

 

Update: Matt D, Heather, Pete & Matt S have had their first night at the North Col. They have had a lot of snow up there, nearly a meter, which has limited any attempt to move up the ridge. They will have another night at the col tonight to help with acclimatization. If they cannot make any further progress on the ridge then they will descend back to ABC. 

All other team members are now down at BC. 

All the team wish Geordie a Happy 21st Birthday today. I'm sure he won't forget where he was on this occasion. 

Regards, Stu.

2nd May: Stu has been in contact this morning to confirm his group have had a successful but wild and cold period of acclimatization on and above the North Col! He described their walk up the North Ridge to 7300m as the worst weather (cold and strong winds) he had ever experienced on Everest during his three previous expeditions. So well done to those who were able to complete their acclimatization.

Matt and his group (Heather, Pete and Matt) will go to the North Col today for a couple of nights.

The group will now drop down to Base camp for a well deserved rest before making their attempt on the summit.

Progress has been excellent to date and the expedition is making perfect time.It is normal to have a period of about six days at BC to fully rest, eat plenty and wait for the good weather before summit attempts start. My estimation on the program from now is: BC rest 3rd -10th May and if the weather looks good aim for the summit around the 16th. We will be watching the weather reports carefully as we progress through this week. As normal we will be posting more regular reports and throughout the night of the summit day/s.(Dave Pritt, Director)

Following the unfortunate incident which occurred to another team on 26th April (described below) Jantoon, Donn, Scott and Micky have decided to leave behind their attempt on Everest and will start their journey back to Kathmandu. We wish them well.

 
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