Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




 Everest 2010: The newspapers get the facts wrong again on Mt Everest


©EverestNews.com

If you have followed Everest climbing for the last 10 plus years, you know newspapers and web sites get it wrong all the time... This year we have seen web sites and newspapers report false deaths after false deaths, they don't check for facts, they just publish rumors... This is a very common practice in this sport, with much of the false information making it into books and rags too... Climbers and others who want to sue are told by lawyers, you have to prove "financial damages". So false information remain published forever... Even newspapers like New York Times, clearly do not check the facts in this sport. Very sad.

Anyway, you will to note just about every newspaper in America is reporting that 16-year-old Temba Tsheri of Nepal was the youngest Everest summiter before Jordan Romero at 13. Of course most of you know it was Ming Kipa of Nepal, who was 15 when she summited in 2003. Later she became a 2 times summiter before moving to New York and getting married. Lakpa Sherpa, Ming Kipa's sister,  has summited Everest more than any woman....

We DID correct the LA TIMES, however we note they did not give us a credit .... so it goes...

The above picture is the sisters with Mr and Mrs Sir Edmund Hillary.

And now back to the news...

Summits and more Summits!

In addition to Adventure Peak from the north last night, from the south the major group of summits were:

IMG Summits 30 on Everest and 3 on Lhotse

All 15 IMG climbers and guides, and also their 15 sherpas climbing today, have now reached the summit.

  1. Mr. Karel Masek of Czech Republic
  2. Mr. Bryan Keith Chapman of USA
  3. Mr. Choong Luen Lein of Singapore
  4. Mr. Mayk Ulrich Schega of Germany
  5. Mr. Sandhosh Kumar Sankaran of Singapore
  6. Mr. Theodore Fairhurst of Canada
  7. Mr. Timothy Brian Igo of USA
  8. Mr. Chien Min Wang of Taiwan
  9. Mr. Michael Allen Boaz of USA
  10. Mr. Gregory Vernovage of USA
  11. Mr. Adolphus Gordon Hancock of Canada
  12. Mr. Louis Carstens of South Africa
  13. Mr. Michael Aaron Hamill of USA (this is his 4th Everest summit)
  14. Mr. Jason Van Dalen of USA
  15. Mr. Eben Fleming Reckord of USA
  16. Mr. Karma Rita Sherpa of Khunjung VDC, Phortse, Solukhumbu Nepal (this is his 5th Everest summit)
  17. Mr. Dorje Lama of Baganje Solu Khumbu (this is his 4th Everest summit)
  18. Mr. Jamling Bhote of Sankhuwasava, Nepal (this is his 5th Everest summit)
  19. Mr. Mr. Phinjo Dorje Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Pangboche, Solukhumbu, Nepal (this is his 4th Everest summit)
  20. Mr. Kalden Phura Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Pangboche, Solukhumbu, Nepal
  21. Mr. Mingma Dorje Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Phortse, Solukhumbu, Nepal (this is his 7th Everest summit)
  22. Mr. Kancha Nuru Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Pangboche Solukhumbu, Nepal (this is his 2nd Everest summit)
  23. Mr. Phinjo Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Phortse Solukhumbu, Nepal (this is his 6th Everest summit)
  24. Mr. Kancha Nuru Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Phortse Solukhumbu, Nepal (this is his 3rd Everest summit)
  25. Mr. Pasang Rinji Sherpa of Khumjung VDC phortse Solukhumbum Nepal (this is his 4th Everest summit)
  26. Mr. Da Sonam Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Pangboche Solukhumbu, Nepal (this is his 10th Everest summit)
  27. Mr. Tseten Dorje Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Pangboche Solukhumbu, Nepal
  28. Mr. Pasang Nuru Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Phortse Solukhumbu, Nepal (this is his 2nd Everest summit)
  29. Mr. Karma Gyalzen Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Phortse Solukhumbu, Nepal
  30. Mr. Pasang Sherpa of Salleri Solukhumbu, Nepal (this is his 2nd Everest summit)

In addition, the following members have reached the summit of Lhotse:

  1. Mr. Brook Adam Mancinelli of USA
  2. Mr. Chewang Lendu Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Phortse Solukhumbu, Nepal (this is his 4th Lhotse summit)
  3. Mr. Gyalzen Dorje Sherpa of Khumjung VDC Phorste Solukhumbu, Nepal (this is his 2nd Lhoste summit)

Everest from the South Side in Nepal

Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350 meters)

This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest.  Base camp is located at 17,500 feet.   This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain.  This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary.  Many organizations offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically challenging (though you must be very fit). 

From base camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall.    This training and recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push. 

The Icefall is in constant motion.  It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and listen to continuous ice creaking below.  This often acts as a testing ground to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing.   The Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.

Camp I - 5900 meters

After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet.  Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.

The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm.  As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp.  Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.

Camp II - 6500 meters

As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest).  The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall.  Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber's life.  Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps. 

Camp III - 23,700 feet (7200 meters)

To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many  Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.

Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)

As youíre leaving C4Öitís a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and thereís not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately itís not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. Thereís a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as youíre getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because itís impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as itís easier to keep moving down the Spur when itís important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which arenít so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, itís just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.

Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers' first overnight stay in the Death Zone.  The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet.  Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name "Death Zone."  The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur.  Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above.  Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.

Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push.  It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations.  It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not).  Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.

From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet.  The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest.  The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time.  Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest's altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.

Summit - 29,028 feet (8848 meters)

Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet.  The summit sits at the top of the world.  Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth's curve, it is the highest peak on earth.  Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third the oxygen as at sea level.  If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes.  Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible.   The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.  

As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit.

 
A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz ē 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Corduraģ upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibramģ rubber rand See more here.

 






 

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
  
CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
  
Headlamps

   Hestra
  
Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
  
Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
  
Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
  
Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2005 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it