8000 Meters Facts
2010: Dan Mazur's SummitClimb takes on both sides of Everest !!
Dan Mazur returns to Everest again in 2010 with expeditions to both sides. Dan
himself will led the north side expedition.
Everest Tibet Programme Description:
- Introduction: Mount Everest at 8,848 metres / 29,035 feet
is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world. The north (Tibetan) side
is the least expensive way to climb it, and the dates we have chosen feature
the best weather of the year.
- Our proposed schedule allows for a careful and safe
ascent, as well as multiple full descents to Chinese basecamp and/or a
- The style of climbing is cautious and careful, with
excellent leadership, organization, Sherpa climbers, 'walkie-talkie'
radios, satellite telephones, the best oxygen bottles and apparatus
available, cooks and waiters, tasty food, the best equipment, individual
tents for each member in basecamp, two full kitchens in basecamp plus
advanced basecamp (ABC), 3 camps on the mountain, 1000s of metres of fixed
line, hundreds of rock, ice and snow anchors, top-quality high altitude
tents and high altitude stoves, expedition mix gas, and full safety
equipment: medical oxygen, gamow bag, and extensive medical kit (photo
right by Ryan Waters: The second step at 8500 metres/27,900 feet. We fixed
300 metres/1000 feet of rope here).
- This expedition maximizes experience gained over 11
prior Everest expeditions with a strong record of reaching the top of our
world's highest peaks. In addition to more than 25 Himalayan expeditions
we have an intimate knowledge of the Tibetan officials who regulate the
permit system, liaison officers, sherpas, cooks, yak drivers, and
- Leader and staff: During the drive, trek, in Chinese
Base, ABC and on the climb, our experienced staff is with you all of the
way. Our helpful climbing sherpas are some of the best. They are real
high-altitude star-performers and very friendly. Our western leader is a
highly experienced, friendly, and well-organized professional with multiple
ascents of Everest. Our skillful basecamp and advanced basecamp cooks
prepare delicious, fresh, tasty food and hot drinks at least 3 times a day.
- On trek: Our western leader, together with friendly and
helpful sherpas, cooks and local people leading yak caravans carry all of
your personal equipment, group equipment, and set up camp each day,
prepare and serve delicious meals, so you can relax and enjoy the trek.
You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the trek.
- Our comfortable basecamp and ABC: Our cooks and waiters
will serve you delicious meals in our heated dining tent
- On the mountain: Our western leader and group sherpas
will fix the route, set up the high camps and carry the group equipment,
such as tents, stoves, etc. If you wish to help out, we welcome you to do
so, otherwise just relax and focus on getting well acclimated and
achieving your goals. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the
- Sherpas: We have many group sherpas to help the team.
For an additional expense, we can also provide personal sherpas and
climbing-guides to individual members who wish to have their own private
sherpa. We now encourage members who wish to have a lighter rucksack to
hire a 1/4 of a sherpa to help with high altitude equipment transport,
carrying your extra weight both up and down the mountain.
Drive to basecamp: Our drive from Kathmandu, into Tibet and
finally to basecamp is a relaxing and interesting adventure. We stop in
medieval looking towns with dirt streets, experience Tibetan culture,
while stopping to walk each day or so in the beautiful surrounding hills
to acclimate to the rising altitude. It offers a great chance to encounter
the vast Tibetan plateau and the surrounding Himalayan Giants. We end at
Chinese base camp at 5200 metres/17,000 feet, which is located just near
the ancient and active Rongbuk Monastery. Along the way we stay and eat at
rustic hotels at the organizer's expense (Photo right by Ryan Waters:
Preparing our yak loads at Chinese basecamp at 5,200 meters/17,000 feet.
Chinese base camp is located just near the medieval and active Rongbuk
Monastery. Our camp is comfortable for the few days we spend there, with a
full kitchen and dining tent, where our cooks prepare 3 hot delicious
meals a day. There is plenty to explore in the surrounding hills, as well
as many international climbing teams to meet).
Trek to advanced basecamp: A beautiful trek to the base of
the highest peak in the world. This trek is very accomplishable by the
average person who enjoys walking. Normally, you never step on snow and
there is no climbing, only walking on moraine trails. From basecamp we
trek up the amazing Rongbuk glacier, also known as the "Golden Highway",
where there are gorgeous views of stunning peaks in the area, including
Lakpa-Ri and all of its "Little Sisters", as well as Changtse and of
course Everest. At 6,400 meters/21,000 feet, Advanced Basecamp (ABC) must
be the highest basecamp in the world (Photo right by Tunc Findik: Slightly
above ABC, one of our Everest climbing expedition members is heading up to
ascend the North Col, where camp 1 is located at 7000 metres/23,000 feet).
Rest Days: We will be taking a lot of them throughout the
expedition. In fact, we might even descend to a low village for three-four
days to soak up the sunshine and thicker air before our final summit push.
During your rest days we encourage you to concentrate on recovering,
eating and drinking, to read, relax, listen to music and stroll around
visiting other teams (photo right by Tunc Findik: Cloud plumes roll off
the north face of Everest. You can see the daunting west ridge on the
right hand skyline leading up to the face. ABC is in the center and just
over the gravel moraine from where this picture was taken).
Summit attempt: From Camp 3, we will make our final summit
push. Climbers must first make their way through three rock bands known as
the first, second, and third steps. Step 2 in particular, is an exciting
rock-buttress to ascend with the presence of an aluminum ladder placed by
a Chinese team in 1975 and since repaired by a five-star commercial team.
After surmounting the 3rd Step, the summit is ahead. Once above these
steps, the final summit slopes (35 to 58 degrees) to the top
More from Dan soon!
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.