Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




 Everest 2010: SummitClimb Mt Everest Tibet Expedition: Lots of news on Mt Everest


©EverestNews.com

15 May, 2010: Lots of news: Much reduced winds and pleasantly warm here in basecamp. North Col ABC Trek team called to say they reached ABC well. Everyone is fine. One member said they are not sure they want to climb up to the North Col. More on that later. They said it is cold and windy in ABC but spirits are high.

All of our Sherpas set off this morning for ABC. First group of members leaves tomorrow morning for interim camp. Shegar members plan to return tomorrow afternoon. Things are happening up here in Tibet!!!

12 May, 2010: Well hello every one. Greetings to all of our Summit Climb news readers.

This is the dispatch for 11-12 May. Our north col ABC trek group called and they are in interim camp preparing to move into advanced basecamp in the morning. Everyone is doing well. They are going to have ABC nearly to themselves and they have a massive support staff of sherpas, Tibetans, and their own personal Chinese guide, the amazing Asu. 

On the big Mount Everest, high winds have been buffeting the mountain since 8 May. Almost everyone has retreated to basecamp and below. Things are not looking good for an early summit this year. Much of our team is down in the village of Shegar, at 4011 metres, enjoying warm sunshine and green plants, and cotton sheets, hot showers, fresh linens, terry towels, and table cloths. Up here in 5200 metre basecamp winds keep howling and spinning around the place. Teams meet up for parties and discussions about the weather. The Russian team erected an enourmous dome tent that weighs one ton, then threw a huge party. All of the teams came over and drank all of the Russian's tea, sprite, and coca-cola, and everyone laughed and told stories and jokes into the wee hours. A ping pong championship tournament ensued and low and behold the winner is temba sherpa, the Russian's electrical engineer who keeps all of their myriad generators and lights and machines running. The British team had a birthday party for one of their members and some Australians crashed it with tasteless jokes about Eton.

Everyone is excited about the weather. As we are camped under Everest, we can see what the weather is doing up there every second of every day. And; Please let me inform you, it is not a pretty site. There is a two kilometre wind plume blowing from the top and according to several of the seven "Everest Weather" websites we are currently watching, the wind is cooking along up there at 138 kilometres/ hour. Exposed flesh would probably freeze solid in a minute or less up there right now, and you would not be able to stand up, just crawl along on your hands and knees. Needless to say, pretty much all teams have left ABC. Which is a good thing as we have heard that quite a few tents in ABC have fallen down and/or blown away. Luckily we have been rotating through our sherpa staff up and down to ABC and they are keeping everything tied down and lashed in place. Plus our North col and ABC trek group are going to be calling ABC home for the next week or so, courtesy of our hardworking staff.

The big topic for all Everest climbers is the weather. Well, the 7 websites all agree that around the 15th of May the wind is going to drop for a few hours, hopefully allowing the Tibetans to move up and work above 8300 metres and fix the rope. However, the seven websites say that on the 22nd of may the wind is going to drop for a few days, perhaps for, as long as, up to the 25th of May. So, lets just watch, but one can imagine that on the 21st of May a "conga-line" will form of all people who can still walk and aspire to climb Everest, and everyone for miles around will try ascending Everest on those days. I don't think it will be a riot or melee or mob scene, as this year everyone has commented on how polite the teams are and how everyone is trying to get along. Not like in previous years when some teams had a more "buccaneering" attitude, complete with rope cutting, etcetera. No, it will probably be more like an orderly climb on a busy day on Mont Blanc, when several hundred people go up and down to the summit.

Anyway, its all conjecture from yours truly at basecamp, as the wind swirls around and hammers at the tents. Here in basecamp at 5200 metres, tents regularly are collapsing in the wind, and have to be re-buoyed and rocked down. The craziest story we are all talking about was yesterday when someone was taking a shower in a small shower-tent in one of the tents and a swirling wind-rotor or "dust-devil" mini-tornado was cycloning around one of the camps and lifted the shower tent up into the air about 6 metres, and complete with the person's towel and clothing, the tent was cast far to the side like some kind of candy wrapper. Spectators were so stunned and embarrassed to witness the denuding of the showeree, they were speechless and only able to stare in amazement for a few moments. Eventually someone did find a blanket to wrap around the hapless (and freezing) victim who shall we say was turned a deeper shade of crimson red than any had heretofor thought possible from the cold and embarrassment. This kind of story helps us all pass the time while reading our books and powering through the three lavish meals our excellent cooks can prepare each day with the constant drone of food, tea, sprite, and coca cola resupply trucks coming up from the nearby village below. From all of us here in basecamp, patiently waiting for the next weather window. Yours sincerely, Dan

 

Earlier: 10 May, 2010: Dear Summit Climb News Readers. Thanks for following the news about our Mount Everest Northside Climb from Tibet, as well as Advanced Basecamp Trek and North Col Climb.

Well, its been a very busy and productive last few days.

On 7 May, most of our team descended from advanced basecamp to basecamp, as they had achieved their goal of climbing a little above the north col to reach a high point near camp 2 and get ready for summitting mount everest and as acclimatized as possible before the summit attempt. A group of us had just climbed up to the north col from abc on 6 may, so we awoke early to check the weather and it sure was perfect. No wind, a golden sunrise with 4 cm of new snow on a gorgeous rosy-sunrise morning. On what might be considered the best day so far of the trip, Janet, Fiko, Frank, Peter, Enrique, Dan, and Pasang set out to explore the upper reaches of the mountain and the way to camp 2. we walked on the well padded trail through soft snow in glowing morning, following about 50 sherpas who had layed the trail at about 2 am in their quest to carry loads of oxygen cylinders and tents up to camp 3. our group of 7 made it up the snow slope, pulling on the well-anchored nylon ropes to the 7500 metre level before clouds started to swirl carried by a bit of breeze. The views up here are big and stunning with big looks down into the great couloir, onto the lho la, over to pumori and shishapangma and cho oyu, and even deep into the valley where hillary and tenzing's everest basecamp lies. As we descended the snow slope, conditions whited out and we had to feel our way carefully along the ridge, but it was not that bad and all of us felt like today was a great day out.

Especially for team member Laval St. Germain who slept in Camp 2 and walked to camp 3. what a great effort!

On 8 may, our little party packed up the north col camp, then climbed back down the north col in mild winds and some clouds and we made our way back down to the advanced basecamp. Upon arrival we relaxed around the dining table and had a sumptuous meal, then retreated to our tents for some well deserved r and r.

On 9 may, we walked back down everest's stunning 24 kilometre long 'golden
highway' stopping at interim camp for tea and lunch, then continuing on down
to basecamp arriving in time to meet the summit climb north col climbers and
abc trekkers. We had a fun time hanging around with our combined team,
telling stories, jokes, and hearing tales of the drive in from lhasa and up
from Kathmandu, as part of the team flew into lhasa and the others drove
from Kathmandu.

On 10 may, 4 members of our little north col group set off in a landcruiser
to the 4100 metre village of shegar for an acclimatization rest. The north
col-abc trek group's yaks came and they packed up and headed up to interim
camp. We wish them well and hope they will have a great trip, they seem like
a nice group and it seems they will have a great time. One of their members,
Anthony Dokas, decided to return to Kathmandu and we wish him a good trip.

He will be missed!!! The latest talk has been about the weather, as its too
windy on the summit to climb everest now. However, we did see the larger
Chinese-Tibetan team leave bc today with around 30 people in their party.

That is good because they aim to fix the ropes to the summit in the next few
days!!!

Well, thanks for following our expeditions and treks. Take good care and all
of the best and wish us luck!!!!

 

Earlier: 6 May, 2010: Hi, this is Dan Mazur, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition calling in a dispatch on 6 May at about 8:00 p.m.

Wow, it's been a long day. I'm on the North Col with the team. Today David, John, Jangbu, Lakpa, Elizabeth, Gordon, and Laval went up to camp 2 at about 7600 metres/25,000 feet to get acclimatized. It was a beautiful day, especially in the morning, with no winds. There was lots of new snow, maybe about 30 centimetres.

A big group of 20 sherpas broke the trail and pulled out the old ropes, so it was super safe.  This afternoon a big storm came in with a lot more snow and wind, so they went back down to basecamp.

Now there's a second wave of us up here at the North Col with a lot of people. I think there are 13 of us including sherpas and members. We're going to get up really early and check the weather. Things are looking good. We're going to try to head up to camp 2 for acclimatization.

I just called Asu, our Chinese leader, and the North Col and ABC trek teams have arrived in basecamp today. They are getting settled in and will stay there for 3-4 days to get used to the altitude, eat and drink well, do some hikes, and then slowly work their way up the valley towards advanced basecamp. So we're looking forward to seeing them.

I can't really think of anything else I should say right now. I'm kind of out of breath. Wish us well. We're hoping for good weather. There have been a lot of conflicting weather forecasts. We've been really checking the different sources and forecasts carefully. Arnold Coster has also sent us a great weather forecast, so we've been looking at that one. Thanks Arnold!

We're hoping we get a couple of days of good weather. That's all we need to get up to camp 2, so wish us well and we'll talk to you soon. Bye

Earlier: Hi, this is Janet Bull reporting for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition on Monday morning, May 3rd.

The team is back in ABC having come down from the North Col/camp 1 during a wild snow storm yesterday. Up on the North Col the wind was gusting, which means that several tents were ripped apart. One tent from another team actually flew down to the bottom of the col.

This morning at ABC it is sunny and there is about 6-8 inches of new snow on the ground. Early in the day the team was treated with a view of the moon setting over the North Col. It was very beautiful.

Hopefully in a day or 2 we will again return to the North Col and pick up where we left off, trying to progress to camp 2. Overall everyone is well.

Hi to all who are following our dispatches. Hopefully you are enjoying them. Hi also to Ally and Brian. Have a good day!

Earlier: Hi, this is Nick Crosland calling in for the Everest Tibet expedition from the North Col at 7000 metres/23,000 feet. Today is May 1st and it’s 8:00 p.m.

We have staggered the group slightly because camp 2 can only have 6 tents at the current moment. We had 4 members come up to the North Col on the 29th, 6 on the 30th, and the remaining 5 came up on the 1st.

The weather has been excellent so far. We’ve had a little wind and snow. The route is slightly different due to the avalanche and is more difficult, but seems easier because it’s our 2nd time coming up here.

We’ve had one member make it up to camp 2 on the 30th, Laval. Unfortunately, Eli, who had the stove, wasn’t able to make it up, so Laval was a bit dehydrated and came back down today. We had 2 more members go to camp 2 today and tomorrow 5 more will go up. The remaining will go up the following day and hopefully sleep there a day or 2 and hike up to camp 3, depending on how everyone feels.

The food here has been excellent thanks to our awesome cook, Kipa Sherpa. We’ve had delicious noodles, chicken and all kinds of tasty things that have kept up everyone’s moral.

There have been lots of new people up here at camp 1 from other teams, which is quite exciting. Thanks for following along our expedition. Bye

Hi, this is Dan Mazur the leader for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition with a dispatch for the 29th of April.

The team is all comfortable in ABC. 4 members went up to the North Col to get a head start on acclimatization trips to camp 2. Our sherpas have carried many loads up there. We’ve got lots of oxygen, food, epi gas, stoves, equipment and everything up there.

Things are looking good. The weather’s been great. We had a little snow last night, but today the weather has been really perfect. There’s not much wind. It’s warm and there are a few puffy clouds.

We’d like to say best of luck to Jesse Hall and Dan Marino who left our trip and we’re really going to miss them. They are a couple of great guys and we’re sorry that they’re no longer with us. They’ve gone back to Kathmandu.

In addition, we located Lopsang, the Tibetan climber out on the glacier yesterday at 6200 metres and he called Sweden to the summit climbers he was with on Everest in 2006 when he froze his fingers. That was Martin Letzter and Olaf Sundström. They have generously sent funds to Lopsang as kind of a summit bonus and also to show their regret that he froze his fingers. So we passed Losang the very generous amount of money that Martin and Olaf gave yesterday. We took some photos and, as one of his Tibetan climbing colleagues said, it was Lopsang’s lucky day yesterday.

We’re all up here resting and hopefully all of us are going to go for the North Col tomorrow and on up to camp 2. We’ll spend a couple of nights and get acclimatized. Our sherpas have been working so hard and have really impressed the group we have this year.

Our Chinese leader, Asu, has gone down to Tingri. He’s going to meet the Nroth Col team and the Everest ABC trekkers and slowly help them come up to basecamp, ABC, and on to the North Col.

Another update we have is the route to the North Col has been moved and climbs away from the original spot where there was the tragedy a few days ago. Some ice fell down and there was a horrible accident, so it’s really good that the Tibetan climbers have moved the route.

Thanks for following our expedition. Bye.

Earlier: 26 April, 2010: Today began with a lazy, but huge breakfast. Then we checked email and hung out with friends from other teams and told stories, then had a huge delicious lunch of fresh vegetables, potatoes, salad, fresh meat, fresh fruit, cakes, tea, sprite, and coke.

After lunch our satphones and mobile phones began ringing wildly, and our Sherpa Pasang, who has been with us in basecamp and was out visiting other bc teams when he heard, stormed into camp with an announcement. Apparently there was an accident today on the face of the North Col. An avalanche swept down and may have torn out some ropes and may have killed one or more climbers. There may have been sherpas involved in the accident as well. Oh my god, this is horrible news. None of our team members were involved in the accident as all are at basecamp. We are not sure if any of our Sherpas were involved in the accident (God Forbid), but from what we heard, this unfortunate accident occurred to a team from a different company. Our sincere condolences to the team and its members and sherpas. We are very sorry to hear this and will be going up the mountain tomorrow and will tell you more as soon as we find out. 

25 April, 2010: Today the team rested in basecamp and it was Anzac day. We payed tribute to the Australia New Zealand Army Corps, may God rest their souls. Our team celebrated by toasting the Anzacs, singing songs, telling stories, speaking loudly, gesticulating wildly, and visiting other teams with members from Australia and New Zealand. Each afternoon of our rest period, big billowy clouds from Nepal have poured over the top of Mount Everest, and it looks quite stormy on the mountain. Some of our members stayed up late to watch DVDs and craved popcorn. The wind has gusted from time to time, but no snow has fallen on basecamp.

Earlier: 21 April, 2010: Hi this is a dispatch for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition. The time is 7:15 p.m., local Tibet time.

I'm calling you from the top of the North Col. The elevation is about 7000 metres/23,000 feet up here. The North Col is also known as the Chang La.

Today we got up and had breakfast made by our amazing cook up here on the North Col, Kipa Sherpa. Everybody had kind of a rough first night up here at 7000 metres, which was to be expected. Then we kind of greeted the sun and stretched our legs a bit.

It was really windy last night. We talked to ABC on the radio and heard it was super windy down there. Our big dining tent was partially blown down. We need to go look at that, but they were able to repair it, so that's good.

After a delicious lunch a group of members decided they were ready to go down and that one night was enough for them. That was Roland, Sri and the 2 brothers led by our amazing Chinese guide, Asu.

A group of us hiked up towards camp 2 to check out the route. It was super windy up there. It was really quite amazing conditions with the high winds and we had to wear our down suits. Meanwhile, our sherpas who are with us strung up a bunch of prayer flags all over the camp.

I just wanted to let you know  that we're the only team up here on the North Col. I don't know where everybody is, but we're the only team. Tomorrow we're headed back down to ABC. Then we'll go back down to basecamp for a couple days of well deserved rest after this acclimatization mission.

Everyone has done so well acclimatizing and we're really proud of them. Thanks for listening to our dispatches and take care. Bye, bye.

Everest Tibet: 20 April, 2010

Hi, this is a dispatch for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet and North Col expedition for the 19th and 20th of April.

On the 19th we had a big prayer ceremony with all of the sherpas, kitchen boys and members in ABC. We strung up a bunch of prayer flags, burned incense and made a cake shaped like Mount Everest, which we ate. There were 2 lamas that did a lot of praying. We had a bunch of singing and dancing by the sherpas and Tibetan kitchen boys. A lot of drinks were passed around like Coke, Sprite and tea. Then we went to bed early.

We got up early on the morning of the 20th and hiked up to the North Col, where I'm calling you from right now. It's at about 7000 metres/23,000 feet. It was snowy and windy. Everybody is in their tents. We have our awesome cook up here, Kipa Sherpa, who is cooking us food and filling our water bottles, so we're comfortable here in our camp 1.

Carl didn't come up to the North Col. He's trying to shake a cold. Fiko went down from the North Col. He figured it was high enough for him, so dropped a load and went back down to ABC.

We'll update you tomorrow. Wish us all the best. Thank you very much. Bye, bye.

 

Earlier: Everest Tibet: 16 April, 2010: Hi this is Tom Javrin calling in for the SummitClimb North Col 2010 trip. I’m leaving my report now because I’m heading down from ABC to basecamp.

I left the group about 6 days ago to do an accelerated acclimatization due to me needing to get a flight home to the UK on the 18th. It was quite hard work to acclimatize with 2 days in each camp.

Yesterday the goal was to get up to the North Col and back with Jimpa and Thile, my 2 sherpas. We managed to do it, so that was a fantastic ending for me on this trip and personally a really great achievement.

It’s been an amazing 2 ½ weeks for me. I’m going to be sad to go home, but I am ready for some creature comforts. The other part of the trip that’s been fantastic has been meeting the other members. They’re a great group of people and they all deserve to get to whatever their objective might be, either the North Col or the summit. I wish them a very safe climb. Thanks. Bye.

Earlier: 15 April, 2010: Hi this is Dan calling for SummitClimb and SummitTrek. Today's date is the 15th of April and the time is 20 minutes past 11:00 a.m. Tibet time.

I'm calling you from interim basecamp at 5800 metres/19,000 feet. The weather is very sunny, there is no wind and the temperature is around freezing.

Right now I'm sitting on top of a high rock moraine looking down at our camp about 50 metres below me. I can see a lot of ice pilgrims, glacier all around me and as I look out to the left, I can see some other interim camps and herds of yaks working their way up towards advanced basecamp.

First of all, I wanted to mention that everyone in our team is okay. We heard there was an earthquake about 250 kilometres to the northwest of us, perhaps over on the Qinghai/Tibet border. We'd like to send our condolences to everyone who was affected by the earthquake. We did not feel the effects of the earthquake here. Everyone on our team is okay.

I'd like to just mention what we did on previous days as well.
 
On the 12th of April Alex Welles, our ABC trekking member left the team and went back to Kathmandu and we miss him very much. It was great to have him around. What an interesting person and he will be missed. We wish him all the best in his journey back home.

On the 12th of April we walked up to interim basecamp. It took 4 hours for some, but everyone arrived safely. We came to our comfortable camp among the ice pilgrims at 5800 metres/19,000 feet and had a delicious dinner.

On the 13th we rested in interim basecamp. Some of us took some
acclimatization hikes around on the local ridges and explored the terrain. It's gorgeous up here, especially with the dusting of new snow. We saw many birds swarming around and watched herds of yaks walking by. It's quite a picturesque area being high in these mountains on this amazing East Rongbuk Glacier.

On the 14th, we took another rest day to get used to the high 5800
metres/19,000 feet elevation. Some of us wandered around amongst the moraine. We explored a little bit towards the Far East Rongbuk. Our interim basecamp was located right at the junction of the Far East Rongbuk Glacier and the East Rongbuk Glacier.

This morning on the 15th, as I'm calling you, we're heading up towards advanced basecamp. Most of our team is going. 1 or 2 of our members aren't feeling quite so well, so are going to stay and rest in interim camp. The rest of us are walking up towards advanced basecamp. It's a big day hiking along the moraines of the East Rongbuk Glacier. We'll be taking our time. It probably takes about 4-8 hours to walk up there, depending. The elevation up there is quite high at 6400 metres/21,000 feet. We're looking forward to reconnecting with one of our members, Tom Javrin and his 2 sherpas, Thile Sherpa and Sano Jangbu Sherpa, and hearing how their progress is going trying to reach the North Col.

Our team will be resting up in advanced basecamp for another 3-5 days. We'll be practicing ice climbing and we may try to make an ascent on to the North Col.

So wish us well and thanks for following our expedition at SummitClimb and SummitTrek. This is Dan Mazur signing off. All of the best for now. Cheers. Bye, bye.
 

Earlier: Today we awoke early and after breakfast drove from Nyalam to Tingri. The road is in very good condition and the visibility was clear so we could see a lot. We crossed the 5000 metre/16,400 foot Yakri Shong La pass and saw lovely unobstructed views of mount Shishapangma, 14th highest in the world and the only 8000 metre peak located entirely in Tibet. Finally we have reached the mighty Tibetan plateau and it showed all of its dry high elevation.

Surprisingly there is almost no road traffic, proving the point that Tibet is still nearly closed. So we feel very fortunate to be here. Along the highway, we saw two groups of native wild asses, and a pair of huge Tibetan cranes wading in a pool near the road. This is such a rare siting of a bird that is rapidly approaching extinction. As we zoomed along the smooth ribbon of tarmac in our comfortable bus and land cruisers, donkey carts and Himalayan snow pheasants scooted out of our way. Rounding a corner near Gutsuo town the plateau spread her arms wide and luckily we saw mounts Cho
Oyu and Everest in all their glory. Everest stood proud over the highway and we couldn't help but notice an enormous 5-10 kilometre wind plume screaming from the summit. Finally we arrived in dusty and frontier like Tingri town at noon, and we were assigned our rooms at the local inn. While awaiting lunch, the members broke out a football (soccer ball) kindly purchased by David O'Brien and challenged our sherpas to a football match. By the time the lunch bell rang, the members had scored 1 goal and the sherpas 6!! At
lunch, we celebrated Gavin Vickers 40th birthday and Shri Lakshmi presented him a pair of tiger embroidered cotton briefs and Gavin went back to his room and much to everyone's dismay, modeled the briefs around the dining room. Shocking!!

After lunch our sherpa team rang from basecamp to say that they and the two trucks had arrived, but where was the truck with our Tibetan and Chinese staff and all of the food and kitchen equipment being brought down from Lhasa? Our sherpas were hungry! In the meantime us members back in Tingri met to work out the schedule of the North Col members and ABC trekkers, then we met with the basecamp translator in order to place our yak order.

Apparently we have been assigned 168 yaks. Our equipment is up in basecamp, so lets get a few of those yaks moving towards advanced basecamp (ABC)! A bit later in the day, our Tibetan convoy rang from Shegar to say that someone had smashed their truck's windscreen during the night and they had to get a new one sent over from Shigatse. Finally the Tibet convoy did reach basecamp at 9pm, so our Nepali sherpas and Tibetan and Chinese staff were at last united and all is well. In the evening, after dinner, we walked up the hill above Tingri town and enjoyed the view across the Tibetan plateau toward Everest and Cho Oyu (now in cloud) from the impressive granite monument built to honour Chomolungma Mount Everest. On the way down we strolled through Tingri's one dusty street, and dodged barking dog packs to head for the Lhasa hotel and a delicious cup of tea beside a warm sheep-dung
fired stove. Just another "normal" day in Tibet I guess!

 

Everest Tibet:

  • Dan Mazur (leader) - US/UK
  • David O'Brien (assistant leader) - UK
  • Asu (assistant leader) - China
  • Gavin Vickers (leader-in-training) - Australia
  • Ms. Elizabeth Tertil - Canada
  • Ms. Janet Bull - USA
     
  • Mark Delstanche - UK 
  • Carl Lindstrom - USA
  • Thorbjørn Lundsgaard - Norway
  • Laval St Germain - Canada
  • John Kazanas - Australia
  • Peter Kinloch - UK
  • Dan Marino - Australia
  • Fiko Karacic - Australia
  • Gordon Hopper - UK
  • Nick Crosland - USA
  • Enriquez Rodriguez - USA
  • Frank Irnich - Germany
  • Jesse Hall (basic member) - USA
  • Eli Hall (basic member) - USA

North Col Mar-Apr:

  • Ms. Srilakshmi Sharma - UK
  • Roland Svensson - Sweden
  • Thomas Javrin - UK 

ABC Trek Mar-Apr:

  • Alex Welles - USA
     

Everest Tibet Staff:

  • Lhakpa Sherpa Lama
     
  • Phurba Sherpa 
  • Ang Babu Sherpa
  • Jangbu Sherpa
  • Gyalje Sherpa
  • Jangbu Sherpa (2)
  • Dawa Jangbu Sherpa
  • Kipa Sherpa - cook
  • Samdien - cook

27 March, 2010

Several of us, Dan and Enrique, met on the Cathay Pacific flight. We had an 8 hour layover in Hong Kong. It was a beautiful cool day and we explored the peak tram, escalators, zoo, and botanical garden.Then on the Dragon Air flight to Kathmandu, we ran into Amer, so that was fun. We arrived in Kathmandu very late at night (11:30 pm).

29 March, 2010 
Today we met with all of the leaders of Everest Glacier School, Everest Basecamp trek, Everest Nepal climb, Everest Tibet climb, Lhotse climb, Cho Oyu climb, North Col climb. We reviewed the medical equipment and supplies, and all of the packing lists, we met the members as they arrived and have begun to check their equipment. We had dinner together with the team. A very busy and productive day.

30 March, 2010

Today we worked hard on sat phones, walkie-talkies, med kits, high altitude food, and meeting with the teams and leaders. Josette went to the ministry for the permit briefing. They gave her a standing ovation, as she is the only woman leading an Everest expedition this year. It rained hard before dinner. Nepal needs the rain. Hope it does not interfere with our expedition's departure. Thanks for following our news.

31 March, 2010

Today we had our briefing for the Nepal Everest Lhotse expedition, and also for the Everest View Glacier School and Everest Basecamp Trek. It looks like it will be a brilliant team this year. It rained hard and long again this evening. So that is very good for Nepal, cleaning up the air and putting more water in the reservoirs, which have become alarmingly low.

1 April, 2010

Today all of our Nepal side expeditions and treks went to the Ktm airport. The climbers were successful and arrived in Lukla and trekked to Phakding.

The trekkers were turned back due to technical problems with their plane. So they spent another night in ktm. We had the briefing for our Tibet side expeditions and treks. Everyone is very excited for the departure. We heard a rumour that we will receive the permit and get our visas for Tibet on 2 April and be able to enter on 3 April. We hope it is true. We spent the day packing, preparing, checking equipment, etcetera. The weather is unusually hot and sunny at the moment.

2 April, 2010  The Nepal side trekkers flew out to Lukla again this morning. This time they arrived. Yeah! Our Tibet side teams received their permits and visas. Yay! So we will be going to Tibet in the morning. What a relief. Today was an extremely busy day of packing and preparation. We are really relieved to be going to Tibet and with a minimal delay, so we feel very fortunate. Wish us luck! Thank you very much.

3 April, 2010  

Greetings SummitClimbNews readers. Thanks for following us! Today we met in the lobby of the Beijing Hotel at 3am. We packed the trucks and buses carefully for our trip to Tibet on the friendship highway. We swung past the Annapurna Hotel and picked up the rest of our members and finished loading the bus. Then we began the long drive to Kodari, reaching there around 11am. Fortunately the weather was good and the road was in good shape. The countryside looked unusually dry, evidence of Nepal's drought.

Our sherpas unloaded the bus while the rest of us enjoyed a delicious breakfast in the Mount Kailash hotel. Then all of us members, sherpas and local porters crossed the friendship bridge border into Tibet, reloaded our stuff onto Tibetan trucks and ourselves into Tibetan buses, jeeps and taxis and went up to Zhangmu town. The road was under construction in places so this took a while. We had lunch in Hotel Gange and stayed in the comfortable gange hotel in Zhangmu that night.

4 April, 2010 

Today we awoke very early in Tingri and had breakfast at Hotel Gange at 9am Chinese time. Then we boarded our bus and jeeps and all of us members and sherpas and trucks set off for Nyalam town. The weather was stunning and we were treated to amazing views of the Bote Khosi gorge (grand canyon of the friendship highway) with monstrous cliffs, lush hemlock and fur forests and towering giant icy-rocky mountains high above our heads. Finally we reached Nyalam around noon, and settled into the Snowland Hotel.

We had a delicious lunch at Snowland restaurant. Some of the members decided to go for walks on the surrounding hills. Everyone is excited to be in Tibet and we are wandering around the village, enjoying the rugged open slopes and high snowy mountains looming above.

In the afternoon, our expedition leader David O'Brien met with Tashi, the hotel's owner and he suggested we move to a newer and better hotel, so we did. The new hotel is also called Snowland and it's very nice.

In the late afternoon, clouds rolled in and a wind driven snow blizzard ensued and it was quite humbling, reminding all of us how cold and stormy it can be in Tibet. The storm finally abated and we went to Base Camp restaurant for dinner. After dinner, several of us sat around the woodstove in the resaurant reminiscing about our good fortune in being able to come to Tibet.

The expedition leaders met later in the evening with our climbing sherpa leader Jangbu and we discussed plans and progress. The leaders are Gavin, David, and Dan. Also around the dinner hour our Chinese leader Asu called and we had a long discussion on the phone with Asu and our Tibetan cook Samdien. They have loaded one truck with supplies in Lhasa and are driving it down and plan to meet our sherpas in basecamp on the 6th of April, so that when the team members arrive in basecamp on the 8th, everything will be fully setup. So, in its own very differently organised Tibetan way, everything seems to be coming together

 

 
A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
  
CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
  
Headlamps

   Hestra
  
Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
  
Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
  
Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
  
Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2005 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it