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 Everest 2010: SummitClimb Mt Everest Tibet Expedition: More death on Mt Everest


This report is written in an attempt to explain the tragic loss of Peter Kinloch. We only spent 6 weeks with Peter, however, during that time we were a team climbing and resting together for many days, so were able to get to know one another well. Peter seemed to be a fit young Scotsman with an interesting life of experiences. He worked for the Police in Merseyside as a member of the civilian support staff dealing with incident pattern analysis and the extraction of management information from crime and incident databases, a specialist in which he held a PhD. Peter was shortly due to take up a new post in Belgium. From what we know of Peter, a great loss has occurred with his passing, and we are extremely sorry this has happened. We wish to send our deepest condolences to Peter's family, loved ones, and family.

Peter passed away shockingly and unexpectedly on the night of 26 May in the early morning hours, after 2:00 am, at 8600 meters, while climbing down from the summit of Mount Everest.

Peter's summit day started at 10:00 pm on 24 may at camp 3 at 8300 meters. After dressing and preparing his kit, food, and water for the summit, he and the rest of the team set off for the summit at 12:00 am in the early morning hours of 25 may.

Our team went upward and passed the obstacles one surmounts in the climb of Mount Everest from the Tibet side, including first step, mushroom rock, second step, third step, final snow slope, and dihedral. On the way up the final obstacles, Peter was in good spirits, moving steadily and sure-footedly together with our team, reaching the summit at around 1:00 pm on 25 May.

Summit team leader David Obrien radioed leader Dan Mazur, who was in camp 3 at 8300 metres, at 1:18 pm on 25 May to say the team was on the summit and everyone was in fine spirits and good health. David said it was very cold and windy and it had been a long and difficult climb.

On the summit Peter was elated, cheery and bubbly. Earlier during the expedition while dining with the team, he had said that climbing Everest would be the realization of a dream he had had for 25 years. While standing atop Everest, Peter took summit photos with the team. Conditions were sunny, but extremely cold, windy, with blowing snow and some cloud.

Descending from the summit, Peter surprisingly seemed to lose his
coordination and took a few slips and stumbles. These moments of clumsiness were interspersed with normal walking. Finally, reaching the top of the second step at approximately 2pm, he asked leader David Obrien, if David would show Peter how to descend the ladders. Peter told David that he (Peter) was having difficulties seeing, then finally that he couldn't see anything at all and was blind.

Peter seemed unsurprised about his blindness and explained to David that the blindness had happened before, although never in mountain conditions. Peter was perfectly coherent at this time and calmly explained that the condition was not snow blindness as he had no pain and he recognized the blindness from a previous episode.

In camp 3, several of the team's sherpas had descended earlier in the day with other members. 3 sherpas were sent up to assist over a period of several hours: Jangbu (Junior) was sent first, then later Phurba and Gyelje.

Over many hours of slow progress helping the now blind Peter, he, David and Jangbu reached the area of "Mushroom Rock" at 8600 metres at approximately six o'clock.

Here they stopped for a rest, David gave Peter food and opened Peter's backpack to take out some of Peter's water for him to drink. The temperature was very cold with high winds. Upon examination, Peter had initial signs of frost bite on two fingers. Peter was mentally coherent as he was able to recognize the symptoms via his sense of touch and show his frostbitten fingers to David. He requested that David remove his extra large mittens out of Peter's rucksack. Throughout this event, Peter's speech and thinking seemed to remain sharp and he did not evidence any signs of HACE. His blindness seemed to be unique, and unconnected to any other illness.

The other 2 sherpas arrived soon after to help with the rescue. The 3 sherpas and David did everything they could to get Peter beyond this point for the next 8 hours to no avail (tried administering dex, high amounts of oxygen, etcetera). Tragically, they were finally forced to come down. The rescue team did everything in their power to help Peter for about 12 hours coming dangerously close to needing their own rescue and not returning themselves.

David and the other 3 sherpas arrived back in camp 3 at 5:30 in the morning with hypothermia, exhaustion, and minor frostbite.

It is with our deepest regrets that we report the passing of Peter Kinloch, who was a bright spark in our team, and he is missed very much. At this very sad moment, we send our sincere condolences, thoughts and prayers, to his family, loved ones, friends, and colleagues.


25 May, 2010: Team 2 summits!

Hi, it's the 25th of May and this is a dispatch for the Everest Tibet SummitClimb expedition.

We got a call at 1:18 p.m. David was on the summit with 5 members and 4 sherpas. It was extremely windy and sunny. The other members who have been here all went down today, so everybody seems like they are doing okay so far. We will keep you posted. Thank you very much. Bye, bye.

24 May, 2010

Team 1 summits! Team 2 going for the summit tonight:

Hi, this is a dispatch for the 24th of May for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet team. It's 7:52 p.m. Tibet time.

Our team is up in camp 3 at 8300 metres/27,200 feet. We've got some great news to report. Laval, Mark, and Gavin summited in the mid-morning together with Thile Sherpa. Fiko and Jangbu Sherpa summited about 1:00 p.m. in the afternoon. Everybody is down safely.

Our other group of 10 members is up in the high camp and we're going for the summit tonight at 11:00 p.m. Tibet time. Nick is safely down in ABC. He's doing well and we're going to miss him. What a great guy. We're sorry he's not with us.

Wish us all the best of luck. The weather was spotty today. There was lots of snow in the morning and it was windy. Right now the sun has popped out. It's still fairly breezy. We can see the summit. There's wind blowing up there, but we're hoping the wind dies tonight in time for our big summit attempt with those 10 members and 6 sherpas. So wish us luck and we'll keep you posted. Thank you very much. Bye, bye.


This is a dispatch for the 24th of May for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet team. I'm calling you from camp 2 around 7800 metres/25,600 feet.

The current conditions are very gray skies and overcast. There are very light winds and it snowed quite a bit through the night. The temperature is pretty warm, not too bad and the time here is about 7:30 a.m. We're just waking up.

Yesterday was a tough day for our team. We climbed up from the North Col. It was a long climb up with about 800 vertical metres. One of our members, Nick, decided that he did not want to continue so he went down with Kipa Sherpa to the North Col. I talked to him last night on the radio and he's doing okay. He's down on the North Col and he plans to descend to advanced basecamp today.

The rest of the team is up here. We've got 4 members up in the high camp together with 2 sherpas. They tried for the summit last night. We haven't heard the outcome of their summit attempt yet. I did have the radio on all night and I did here some communication between the team members and sherpas, including a radio call saying they had reached the 2nd step. I haven't heard any other radio calls since then, but we're listening and waiting for them to call in. As soon as they do, we'll let you know.

Our team plans to go up to the high camp today, weather permitting. It's been pretty busy on this side of the mountain during this weather window. 

Yesterday our team of 4 members and 2 sherpas called in to say that there weren't any tent sites available. They discussed with some of the other teams up there the situation who were kind enough to let them use their tents, so they didn't have to put up any tents. So that's good. In exchange, some of the other teams asked if they could give some of their members to us so we can help them reach the top on their 2nd summit bid. Apparently some of their members were trying to get to the summit, reached the 2nd step, went for their fresh bottle of oxygen and realized the bottle was empty. So they had to go back down. Can you imagine that? I do recall our local Kathmandu agent checking all of the bottles for us, so hopefully all of our oxygen bottles have oxygen in them.

We'll keep you informed as things progress up here. We wish all of team members and sherpas the best of luck. Also we also wish all of the other teams the best of luck as well.

It's pretty cloudy, so we're not totally sure what today's weather is going to bring, but at least the wind is not blowing too hard right now. We'll keep you informed. Thank you very much. Bye, bye.

20 May, 2010: This is a dispatch for the 20th of May for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition.

It has been a very difficult and challenging last few days for our team. We'd like to congratulate the Tibetan and Chinese team for fixing the route to the summit of Mount Everest and for getting a lot of their members on the top safely. Job well done! Thank you very much.

Some other teams also summited. We heard some Taiwanese made the summit and today we met a Polish person named Magdalena who reached the summit on the 18th. Big congratulations!

Also, we'd like to inform you that 5 of our members and 2 of our sherpas are on the North Col and have been there for several days. They are trying to move to camp 2, but it's been too windy and difficult to go up. Other teams have tried to go up to camp 2 and turned around. They're hoping they can go in the morning.

The other 11 members of our team are safe and well in ABC. They hope to go to the North Col in the morning weather permitting and start their summit attempt, together with the remaining 8 sherpas who carried a load today up to the North Col.

We're hoping to get some good news on the weather. We heard that the wind may drop through the 21st-25th. We've been checking multiple weather sources in India and Tibet and really casting about for as much weather information as we can get. It seems that the forecasts are a bit unstable, but we hope that we'll be able to find a window so all members and sherpas can summit in safety.

We'll let you know how things are progressing. Thank you very much. Bye, bye.

Earlier: All 11 members are departing basecamp today and heading for intermediate camp. Then we will move up to ABC, the North Col, camp 2, camp 3, and god willing, the summit. Please pray for us and wish us luck, patience, and strength. Also, many many thanks to James Redeker from Canadian North Airlines for his weather advice!!!

Earlier: 12 May, 2010: Well hello every one. Greetings to all of our Summit Climb news readers.

This is the dispatch for 11-12 May. Our north col ABC trek group called and they are in interim camp preparing to move into advanced basecamp in the morning. Everyone is doing well. They are going to have ABC nearly to themselves and they have a massive support staff of sherpas, Tibetans, and their own personal Chinese guide, the amazing Asu. 

On the big Mount Everest, high winds have been buffeting the mountain since 8 May. Almost everyone has retreated to basecamp and below. Things are not looking good for an early summit this year. Much of our team is down in the village of Shegar, at 4011 metres, enjoying warm sunshine and green plants, and cotton sheets, hot showers, fresh linens, terry towels, and table cloths. Up here in 5200 metre basecamp winds keep howling and spinning around the place. Teams meet up for parties and discussions about the weather. The Russian team erected an enourmous dome tent that weighs one ton, then threw a huge party. All of the teams came over and drank all of the Russian's tea, sprite, and coca-cola, and everyone laughed and told stories and jokes into the wee hours. A ping pong championship tournament ensued and low and behold the winner is temba sherpa, the Russian's electrical engineer who keeps all of their myriad generators and lights and machines running. The British team had a birthday party for one of their members and some Australians crashed it with tasteless jokes about Eton.

Everyone is excited about the weather. As we are camped under Everest, we can see what the weather is doing up there every second of every day. And; Please let me inform you, it is not a pretty site. There is a two kilometre wind plume blowing from the top and according to several of the seven "Everest Weather" websites we are currently watching, the wind is cooking along up there at 138 kilometres/ hour. Exposed flesh would probably freeze solid in a minute or less up there right now, and you would not be able to stand up, just crawl along on your hands and knees. Needless to say, pretty much all teams have left ABC. Which is a good thing as we have heard that quite a few tents in ABC have fallen down and/or blown away. Luckily we have been rotating through our sherpa staff up and down to ABC and they are keeping everything tied down and lashed in place. Plus our North col and ABC trek group are going to be calling ABC home for the next week or so, courtesy of our hardworking staff.

The big topic for all Everest climbers is the weather. Well, the 7 websites all agree that around the 15th of May the wind is going to drop for a few hours, hopefully allowing the Tibetans to move up and work above 8300 metres and fix the rope. However, the seven websites say that on the 22nd of may the wind is going to drop for a few days, perhaps for, as long as, up to the 25th of May. So, lets just watch, but one can imagine that on the 21st of May a "conga-line" will form of all people who can still walk and aspire to climb Everest, and everyone for miles around will try ascending Everest on those days. I don't think it will be a riot or melee or mob scene, as this year everyone has commented on how polite the teams are and how everyone is trying to get along. Not like in previous years when some teams had a more "buccaneering" attitude, complete with rope cutting, etcetera. No, it will probably be more like an orderly climb on a busy day on Mont Blanc, when several hundred people go up and down to the summit.

Anyway, its all conjecture from yours truly at basecamp, as the wind swirls around and hammers at the tents. Here in basecamp at 5200 metres, tents regularly are collapsing in the wind, and have to be re-buoyed and rocked down. The craziest story we are all talking about was yesterday when someone was taking a shower in a small shower-tent in one of the tents and a swirling wind-rotor or "dust-devil" mini-tornado was cycloning around one of the camps and lifted the shower tent up into the air about 6 metres, and complete with the person's towel and clothing, the tent was cast far to the side like some kind of candy wrapper. Spectators were so stunned and embarrassed to witness the denuding of the showeree, they were speechless and only able to stare in amazement for a few moments. Eventually someone did find a blanket to wrap around the hapless (and freezing) victim who shall we say was turned a deeper shade of crimson red than any had heretofor thought possible from the cold and embarrassment. This kind of story helps us all pass the time while reading our books and powering through the three lavish meals our excellent cooks can prepare each day with the constant drone of food, tea, sprite, and coca cola resupply trucks coming up from the nearby village below. From all of us here in basecamp, patiently waiting for the next weather window. Yours sincerely, Dan


Earlier: 10 May, 2010: Dear Summit Climb News Readers. Thanks for following the news about our Mount Everest Northside Climb from Tibet, as well as Advanced Basecamp Trek and North Col Climb.

Well, its been a very busy and productive last few days.

On 7 May, most of our team descended from advanced basecamp to basecamp, as they had achieved their goal of climbing a little above the north col to reach a high point near camp 2 and get ready for summitting mount everest and as acclimatized as possible before the summit attempt. A group of us had just climbed up to the north col from abc on 6 may, so we awoke early to check the weather and it sure was perfect. No wind, a golden sunrise with 4 cm of new snow on a gorgeous rosy-sunrise morning. On what might be considered the best day so far of the trip, Janet, Fiko, Frank, Peter, Enrique, Dan, and Pasang set out to explore the upper reaches of the mountain and the way to camp 2. we walked on the well padded trail through soft snow in glowing morning, following about 50 sherpas who had layed the trail at about 2 am in their quest to carry loads of oxygen cylinders and tents up to camp 3. our group of 7 made it up the snow slope, pulling on the well-anchored nylon ropes to the 7500 metre level before clouds started to swirl carried by a bit of breeze. The views up here are big and stunning with big looks down into the great couloir, onto the lho la, over to pumori and shishapangma and cho oyu, and even deep into the valley where hillary and tenzing's everest basecamp lies. As we descended the snow slope, conditions whited out and we had to feel our way carefully along the ridge, but it was not that bad and all of us felt like today was a great day out.

Especially for team member Laval St. Germain who slept in Camp 2 and walked to camp 3. what a great effort!

On 8 may, our little party packed up the north col camp, then climbed back down the north col in mild winds and some clouds and we made our way back down to the advanced basecamp. Upon arrival we relaxed around the dining table and had a sumptuous meal, then retreated to our tents for some well deserved r and r.

On 9 may, we walked back down everest's stunning 24 kilometre long 'golden
highway' stopping at interim camp for tea and lunch, then continuing on down
to basecamp arriving in time to meet the summit climb north col climbers and
abc trekkers. We had a fun time hanging around with our combined team,
telling stories, jokes, and hearing tales of the drive in from lhasa and up
from Kathmandu, as part of the team flew into lhasa and the others drove
from Kathmandu.

On 10 may, 4 members of our little north col group set off in a landcruiser
to the 4100 metre village of shegar for an acclimatization rest. The north
col-abc trek group's yaks came and they packed up and headed up to interim
camp. We wish them well and hope they will have a great trip, they seem like
a nice group and it seems they will have a great time. One of their members,
Anthony Dokas, decided to return to Kathmandu and we wish him a good trip.

He will be missed!!! The latest talk has been about the weather, as its too
windy on the summit to climb everest now. However, we did see the larger
Chinese-Tibetan team leave bc today with around 30 people in their party.

That is good because they aim to fix the ropes to the summit in the next few

Well, thanks for following our expeditions and treks. Take good care and all
of the best and wish us luck!!!!


Earlier: 6 May, 2010: Hi, this is Dan Mazur, the leader of the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition calling in a dispatch on 6 May at about 8:00 p.m.

Wow, it's been a long day. I'm on the North Col with the team. Today David, John, Jangbu, Lakpa, Elizabeth, Gordon, and Laval went up to camp 2 at about 7600 metres/25,000 feet to get acclimatized. It was a beautiful day, especially in the morning, with no winds. There was lots of new snow, maybe about 30 centimetres.

A big group of 20 sherpas broke the trail and pulled out the old ropes, so it was super safe.  This afternoon a big storm came in with a lot more snow and wind, so they went back down to basecamp.

Now there's a second wave of us up here at the North Col with a lot of people. I think there are 13 of us including sherpas and members. We're going to get up really early and check the weather. Things are looking good. We're going to try to head up to camp 2 for acclimatization.

I just called Asu, our Chinese leader, and the North Col and ABC trek teams have arrived in basecamp today. They are getting settled in and will stay there for 3-4 days to get used to the altitude, eat and drink well, do some hikes, and then slowly work their way up the valley towards advanced basecamp. So we're looking forward to seeing them.

I can't really think of anything else I should say right now. I'm kind of out of breath. Wish us well. We're hoping for good weather. There have been a lot of conflicting weather forecasts. We've been really checking the different sources and forecasts carefully. Arnold Coster has also sent us a great weather forecast, so we've been looking at that one. Thanks Arnold!

We're hoping we get a couple of days of good weather. That's all we need to get up to camp 2, so wish us well and we'll talk to you soon. Bye

Earlier: Hi, this is Janet Bull reporting for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition on Monday morning, May 3rd.

The team is back in ABC having come down from the North Col/camp 1 during a wild snow storm yesterday. Up on the North Col the wind was gusting, which means that several tents were ripped apart. One tent from another team actually flew down to the bottom of the col.

This morning at ABC it is sunny and there is about 6-8 inches of new snow on the ground. Early in the day the team was treated with a view of the moon setting over the North Col. It was very beautiful.

Hopefully in a day or 2 we will again return to the North Col and pick up where we left off, trying to progress to camp 2. Overall everyone is well.

Hi to all who are following our dispatches. Hopefully you are enjoying them. Hi also to Ally and Brian. Have a good day!

Earlier: Hi, this is Nick Crosland calling in for the Everest Tibet expedition from the North Col at 7000 metres/23,000 feet. Today is May 1st and it’s 8:00 p.m.

We have staggered the group slightly because camp 2 can only have 6 tents at the current moment. We had 4 members come up to the North Col on the 29th, 6 on the 30th, and the remaining 5 came up on the 1st.

The weather has been excellent so far. We’ve had a little wind and snow. The route is slightly different due to the avalanche and is more difficult, but seems easier because it’s our 2nd time coming up here.

We’ve had one member make it up to camp 2 on the 30th, Laval. Unfortunately, Eli, who had the stove, wasn’t able to make it up, so Laval was a bit dehydrated and came back down today. We had 2 more members go to camp 2 today and tomorrow 5 more will go up. The remaining will go up the following day and hopefully sleep there a day or 2 and hike up to camp 3, depending on how everyone feels.

The food here has been excellent thanks to our awesome cook, Kipa Sherpa. We’ve had delicious noodles, chicken and all kinds of tasty things that have kept up everyone’s moral.

There have been lots of new people up here at camp 1 from other teams, which is quite exciting. Thanks for following along our expedition. Bye

Hi, this is Dan Mazur the leader for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition with a dispatch for the 29th of April.

The team is all comfortable in ABC. 4 members went up to the North Col to get a head start on acclimatization trips to camp 2. Our sherpas have carried many loads up there. We’ve got lots of oxygen, food, epi gas, stoves, equipment and everything up there.

Things are looking good. The weather’s been great. We had a little snow last night, but today the weather has been really perfect. There’s not much wind. It’s warm and there are a few puffy clouds.

We’d like to say best of luck to Jesse Hall and Dan Marino who left our trip and we’re really going to miss them. They are a couple of great guys and we’re sorry that they’re no longer with us. They’ve gone back to Kathmandu.

In addition, we located Lopsang, the Tibetan climber out on the glacier yesterday at 6200 metres and he called Sweden to the summit climbers he was with on Everest in 2006 when he froze his fingers. That was Martin Letzter and Olaf Sundström. They have generously sent funds to Lopsang as kind of a summit bonus and also to show their regret that he froze his fingers. So we passed Losang the very generous amount of money that Martin and Olaf gave yesterday. We took some photos and, as one of his Tibetan climbing colleagues said, it was Lopsang’s lucky day yesterday.

We’re all up here resting and hopefully all of us are going to go for the North Col tomorrow and on up to camp 2. We’ll spend a couple of nights and get acclimatized. Our sherpas have been working so hard and have really impressed the group we have this year.

Our Chinese leader, Asu, has gone down to Tingri. He’s going to meet the Nroth Col team and the Everest ABC trekkers and slowly help them come up to basecamp, ABC, and on to the North Col.

Another update we have is the route to the North Col has been moved and climbs away from the original spot where there was the tragedy a few days ago. Some ice fell down and there was a horrible accident, so it’s really good that the Tibetan climbers have moved the route.

Thanks for following our expedition. Bye.

Earlier: 26 April, 2010: Today began with a lazy, but huge breakfast. Then we checked email and hung out with friends from other teams and told stories, then had a huge delicious lunch of fresh vegetables, potatoes, salad, fresh meat, fresh fruit, cakes, tea, sprite, and coke.

After lunch our satphones and mobile phones began ringing wildly, and our Sherpa Pasang, who has been with us in basecamp and was out visiting other bc teams when he heard, stormed into camp with an announcement. Apparently there was an accident today on the face of the North Col. An avalanche swept down and may have torn out some ropes and may have killed one or more climbers. There may have been sherpas involved in the accident as well. Oh my god, this is horrible news. None of our team members were involved in the accident as all are at basecamp. We are not sure if any of our Sherpas were involved in the accident (God Forbid), but from what we heard, this unfortunate accident occurred to a team from a different company. Our sincere condolences to the team and its members and sherpas. We are very sorry to hear this and will be going up the mountain tomorrow and will tell you more as soon as we find out. 

25 April, 2010: Today the team rested in basecamp and it was Anzac day. We payed tribute to the Australia New Zealand Army Corps, may God rest their souls. Our team celebrated by toasting the Anzacs, singing songs, telling stories, speaking loudly, gesticulating wildly, and visiting other teams with members from Australia and New Zealand. Each afternoon of our rest period, big billowy clouds from Nepal have poured over the top of Mount Everest, and it looks quite stormy on the mountain. Some of our members stayed up late to watch DVDs and craved popcorn. The wind has gusted from time to time, but no snow has fallen on basecamp.

Earlier: 21 April, 2010: Hi this is a dispatch for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet expedition. The time is 7:15 p.m., local Tibet time.

I'm calling you from the top of the North Col. The elevation is about 7000 metres/23,000 feet up here. The North Col is also known as the Chang La.

Today we got up and had breakfast made by our amazing cook up here on the North Col, Kipa Sherpa. Everybody had kind of a rough first night up here at 7000 metres, which was to be expected. Then we kind of greeted the sun and stretched our legs a bit.

It was really windy last night. We talked to ABC on the radio and heard it was super windy down there. Our big dining tent was partially blown down. We need to go look at that, but they were able to repair it, so that's good.

After a delicious lunch a group of members decided they were ready to go down and that one night was enough for them. That was Roland, Sri and the 2 brothers led by our amazing Chinese guide, Asu.

A group of us hiked up towards camp 2 to check out the route. It was super windy up there. It was really quite amazing conditions with the high winds and we had to wear our down suits. Meanwhile, our sherpas who are with us strung up a bunch of prayer flags all over the camp.

I just wanted to let you know  that we're the only team up here on the North Col. I don't know where everybody is, but we're the only team. Tomorrow we're headed back down to ABC. Then we'll go back down to basecamp for a couple days of well deserved rest after this acclimatization mission.

Everyone has done so well acclimatizing and we're really proud of them. Thanks for listening to our dispatches and take care. Bye, bye.

Everest Tibet: 20 April, 2010

Hi, this is a dispatch for the SummitClimb Everest Tibet and North Col expedition for the 19th and 20th of April.

On the 19th we had a big prayer ceremony with all of the sherpas, kitchen boys and members in ABC. We strung up a bunch of prayer flags, burned incense and made a cake shaped like Mount Everest, which we ate. There were 2 lamas that did a lot of praying. We had a bunch of singing and dancing by the sherpas and Tibetan kitchen boys. A lot of drinks were passed around like Coke, Sprite and tea. Then we went to bed early.

We got up early on the morning of the 20th and hiked up to the North Col, where I'm calling you from right now. It's at about 7000 metres/23,000 feet. It was snowy and windy. Everybody is in their tents. We have our awesome cook up here, Kipa Sherpa, who is cooking us food and filling our water bottles, so we're comfortable here in our camp 1.

Carl didn't come up to the North Col. He's trying to shake a cold. Fiko went down from the North Col. He figured it was high enough for him, so dropped a load and went back down to ABC.

We'll update you tomorrow. Wish us all the best. Thank you very much. Bye, bye.


Earlier: Everest Tibet: 16 April, 2010: Hi this is Tom Javrin calling in for the SummitClimb North Col 2010 trip. I’m leaving my report now because I’m heading down from ABC to basecamp.

I left the group about 6 days ago to do an accelerated acclimatization due to me needing to get a flight home to the UK on the 18th. It was quite hard work to acclimatize with 2 days in each camp.

Yesterday the goal was to get up to the North Col and back with Jimpa and Thile, my 2 sherpas. We managed to do it, so that was a fantastic ending for me on this trip and personally a really great achievement.

It’s been an amazing 2 ½ weeks for me. I’m going to be sad to go home, but I am ready for some creature comforts. The other part of the trip that’s been fantastic has been meeting the other members. They’re a great group of people and they all deserve to get to whatever their objective might be, either the North Col or the summit. I wish them a very safe climb. Thanks. Bye.

Earlier: 15 April, 2010: Hi this is Dan calling for SummitClimb and SummitTrek. Today's date is the 15th of April and the time is 20 minutes past 11:00 a.m. Tibet time.

I'm calling you from interim basecamp at 5800 metres/19,000 feet. The weather is very sunny, there is no wind and the temperature is around freezing.

Right now I'm sitting on top of a high rock moraine looking down at our camp about 50 metres below me. I can see a lot of ice pilgrims, glacier all around me and as I look out to the left, I can see some other interim camps and herds of yaks working their way up towards advanced basecamp.

First of all, I wanted to mention that everyone in our team is okay. We heard there was an earthquake about 250 kilometres to the northwest of us, perhaps over on the Qinghai/Tibet border. We'd like to send our condolences to everyone who was affected by the earthquake. We did not feel the effects of the earthquake here. Everyone on our team is okay.

I'd like to just mention what we did on previous days as well.
On the 12th of April Alex Welles, our ABC trekking member left the team and went back to Kathmandu and we miss him very much. It was great to have him around. What an interesting person and he will be missed. We wish him all the best in his journey back home.

On the 12th of April we walked up to interim basecamp. It took 4 hours for some, but everyone arrived safely. We came to our comfortable camp among the ice pilgrims at 5800 metres/19,000 feet and had a delicious dinner.

On the 13th we rested in interim basecamp. Some of us took some
acclimatization hikes around on the local ridges and explored the terrain. It's gorgeous up here, especially with the dusting of new snow. We saw many birds swarming around and watched herds of yaks walking by. It's quite a picturesque area being high in these mountains on this amazing East Rongbuk Glacier.

On the 14th, we took another rest day to get used to the high 5800
metres/19,000 feet elevation. Some of us wandered around amongst the moraine. We explored a little bit towards the Far East Rongbuk. Our interim basecamp was located right at the junction of the Far East Rongbuk Glacier and the East Rongbuk Glacier.

This morning on the 15th, as I'm calling you, we're heading up towards advanced basecamp. Most of our team is going. 1 or 2 of our members aren't feeling quite so well, so are going to stay and rest in interim camp. The rest of us are walking up towards advanced basecamp. It's a big day hiking along the moraines of the East Rongbuk Glacier. We'll be taking our time. It probably takes about 4-8 hours to walk up there, depending. The elevation up there is quite high at 6400 metres/21,000 feet. We're looking forward to reconnecting with one of our members, Tom Javrin and his 2 sherpas, Thile Sherpa and Sano Jangbu Sherpa, and hearing how their progress is going trying to reach the North Col.

Our team will be resting up in advanced basecamp for another 3-5 days. We'll be practicing ice climbing and we may try to make an ascent on to the North Col.

So wish us well and thanks for following our expedition at SummitClimb and SummitTrek. This is Dan Mazur signing off. All of the best for now. Cheers. Bye, bye.

Earlier: Today we awoke early and after breakfast drove from Nyalam to Tingri. The road is in very good condition and the visibility was clear so we could see a lot. We crossed the 5000 metre/16,400 foot Yakri Shong La pass and saw lovely unobstructed views of mount Shishapangma, 14th highest in the world and the only 8000 metre peak located entirely in Tibet. Finally we have reached the mighty Tibetan plateau and it showed all of its dry high elevation.

Surprisingly there is almost no road traffic, proving the point that Tibet is still nearly closed. So we feel very fortunate to be here. Along the highway, we saw two groups of native wild asses, and a pair of huge Tibetan cranes wading in a pool near the road. This is such a rare siting of a bird that is rapidly approaching extinction. As we zoomed along the smooth ribbon of tarmac in our comfortable bus and land cruisers, donkey carts and Himalayan snow pheasants scooted out of our way. Rounding a corner near Gutsuo town the plateau spread her arms wide and luckily we saw mounts Cho
Oyu and Everest in all their glory. Everest stood proud over the highway and we couldn't help but notice an enormous 5-10 kilometre wind plume screaming from the summit. Finally we arrived in dusty and frontier like Tingri town at noon, and we were assigned our rooms at the local inn. While awaiting lunch, the members broke out a football (soccer ball) kindly purchased by David O'Brien and challenged our sherpas to a football match. By the time the lunch bell rang, the members had scored 1 goal and the sherpas 6!! At
lunch, we celebrated Gavin Vickers 40th birthday and Shri Lakshmi presented him a pair of tiger embroidered cotton briefs and Gavin went back to his room and much to everyone's dismay, modeled the briefs around the dining room. Shocking!!

After lunch our sherpa team rang from basecamp to say that they and the two trucks had arrived, but where was the truck with our Tibetan and Chinese staff and all of the food and kitchen equipment being brought down from Lhasa? Our sherpas were hungry! In the meantime us members back in Tingri met to work out the schedule of the North Col members and ABC trekkers, then we met with the basecamp translator in order to place our yak order.

Apparently we have been assigned 168 yaks. Our equipment is up in basecamp, so lets get a few of those yaks moving towards advanced basecamp (ABC)! A bit later in the day, our Tibetan convoy rang from Shegar to say that someone had smashed their truck's windscreen during the night and they had to get a new one sent over from Shigatse. Finally the Tibet convoy did reach basecamp at 9pm, so our Nepali sherpas and Tibetan and Chinese staff were at last united and all is well. In the evening, after dinner, we walked up the hill above Tingri town and enjoyed the view across the Tibetan plateau toward Everest and Cho Oyu (now in cloud) from the impressive granite monument built to honour Chomolungma Mount Everest. On the way down we strolled through Tingri's one dusty street, and dodged barking dog packs to head for the Lhasa hotel and a delicious cup of tea beside a warm sheep-dung
fired stove. Just another "normal" day in Tibet I guess!


Everest Tibet:

  • Dan Mazur (leader) - US/UK
  • David O'Brien (assistant leader) - UK
  • Asu (assistant leader) - China
  • Gavin Vickers (leader-in-training) - Australia
  • Ms. Elizabeth Tertil - Canada
  • Ms. Janet Bull - USA
  • Mark Delstanche - UK 
  • Carl Lindstrom - USA
  • Thorbjørn Lundsgaard - Norway
  • Laval St Germain - Canada
  • John Kazanas - Australia
  • Peter Kinloch - UK
  • Dan Marino - Australia
  • Fiko Karacic - Australia
  • Gordon Hopper - UK
  • Nick Crosland - USA
  • Enriquez Rodriguez - USA
  • Frank Irnich - Germany
  • Jesse Hall (basic member) - USA
  • Eli Hall (basic member) - USA

North Col Mar-Apr:

  • Ms. Srilakshmi Sharma - UK
  • Roland Svensson - Sweden
  • Thomas Javrin - UK 

ABC Trek Mar-Apr:

  • Alex Welles - USA

Everest Tibet Staff:

  • Lhakpa Sherpa Lama
  • Phurba Sherpa 
  • Ang Babu Sherpa
  • Jangbu Sherpa
  • Gyalje Sherpa
  • Jangbu Sherpa (2)
  • Dawa Jangbu Sherpa
  • Kipa Sherpa - cook
  • Samdien - cook

27 March, 2010

Several of us, Dan and Enrique, met on the Cathay Pacific flight. We had an 8 hour layover in Hong Kong. It was a beautiful cool day and we explored the peak tram, escalators, zoo, and botanical garden.Then on the Dragon Air flight to Kathmandu, we ran into Amer, so that was fun. We arrived in Kathmandu very late at night (11:30 pm).

29 March, 2010 
Today we met with all of the leaders of Everest Glacier School, Everest Basecamp trek, Everest Nepal climb, Everest Tibet climb, Lhotse climb, Cho Oyu climb, North Col climb. We reviewed the medical equipment and supplies, and all of the packing lists, we met the members as they arrived and have begun to check their equipment. We had dinner together with the team. A very busy and productive day.

30 March, 2010

Today we worked hard on sat phones, walkie-talkies, med kits, high altitude food, and meeting with the teams and leaders. Josette went to the ministry for the permit briefing. They gave her a standing ovation, as she is the only woman leading an Everest expedition this year. It rained hard before dinner. Nepal needs the rain. Hope it does not interfere with our expedition's departure. Thanks for following our news.

31 March, 2010

Today we had our briefing for the Nepal Everest Lhotse expedition, and also for the Everest View Glacier School and Everest Basecamp Trek. It looks like it will be a brilliant team this year. It rained hard and long again this evening. So that is very good for Nepal, cleaning up the air and putting more water in the reservoirs, which have become alarmingly low.

1 April, 2010

Today all of our Nepal side expeditions and treks went to the Ktm airport. The climbers were successful and arrived in Lukla and trekked to Phakding.

The trekkers were turned back due to technical problems with their plane. So they spent another night in ktm. We had the briefing for our Tibet side expeditions and treks. Everyone is very excited for the departure. We heard a rumour that we will receive the permit and get our visas for Tibet on 2 April and be able to enter on 3 April. We hope it is true. We spent the day packing, preparing, checking equipment, etcetera. The weather is unusually hot and sunny at the moment.

2 April, 2010  The Nepal side trekkers flew out to Lukla again this morning. This time they arrived. Yeah! Our Tibet side teams received their permits and visas. Yay! So we will be going to Tibet in the morning. What a relief. Today was an extremely busy day of packing and preparation. We are really relieved to be going to Tibet and with a minimal delay, so we feel very fortunate. Wish us luck! Thank you very much.

3 April, 2010  

Greetings SummitClimbNews readers. Thanks for following us! Today we met in the lobby of the Beijing Hotel at 3am. We packed the trucks and buses carefully for our trip to Tibet on the friendship highway. We swung past the Annapurna Hotel and picked up the rest of our members and finished loading the bus. Then we began the long drive to Kodari, reaching there around 11am. Fortunately the weather was good and the road was in good shape. The countryside looked unusually dry, evidence of Nepal's drought.

Our sherpas unloaded the bus while the rest of us enjoyed a delicious breakfast in the Mount Kailash hotel. Then all of us members, sherpas and local porters crossed the friendship bridge border into Tibet, reloaded our stuff onto Tibetan trucks and ourselves into Tibetan buses, jeeps and taxis and went up to Zhangmu town. The road was under construction in places so this took a while. We had lunch in Hotel Gange and stayed in the comfortable gange hotel in Zhangmu that night.

4 April, 2010 

Today we awoke very early in Tingri and had breakfast at Hotel Gange at 9am Chinese time. Then we boarded our bus and jeeps and all of us members and sherpas and trucks set off for Nyalam town. The weather was stunning and we were treated to amazing views of the Bote Khosi gorge (grand canyon of the friendship highway) with monstrous cliffs, lush hemlock and fur forests and towering giant icy-rocky mountains high above our heads. Finally we reached Nyalam around noon, and settled into the Snowland Hotel.

We had a delicious lunch at Snowland restaurant. Some of the members decided to go for walks on the surrounding hills. Everyone is excited to be in Tibet and we are wandering around the village, enjoying the rugged open slopes and high snowy mountains looming above.

In the afternoon, our expedition leader David O'Brien met with Tashi, the hotel's owner and he suggested we move to a newer and better hotel, so we did. The new hotel is also called Snowland and it's very nice.

In the late afternoon, clouds rolled in and a wind driven snow blizzard ensued and it was quite humbling, reminding all of us how cold and stormy it can be in Tibet. The storm finally abated and we went to Base Camp restaurant for dinner. After dinner, several of us sat around the woodstove in the resaurant reminiscing about our good fortune in being able to come to Tibet.

The expedition leaders met later in the evening with our climbing sherpa leader Jangbu and we discussed plans and progress. The leaders are Gavin, David, and Dan. Also around the dinner hour our Chinese leader Asu called and we had a long discussion on the phone with Asu and our Tibetan cook Samdien. They have loaded one truck with supplies in Lhasa and are driving it down and plan to meet our sherpas in basecamp on the 6th of April, so that when the team members arrive in basecamp on the 8th, everything will be fully setup. So, in its own very differently organised Tibetan way, everything seems to be coming together


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