22 April, 2011:

This is Biff Palmer providing the Everest Tibet update for today (April 22, 1448 local time). Yesterday the group descended 4000 (21000 to 17000) feet from ABC to the lower base camp covering a distance of approximately 13 miles. The descent is part of the acclimatization process in that a lower altitude is clearly associated with an improvement in appetite, better sleep hygiene, and an opportunity to watch movies. With regard to the latter I thought I would summarize the groups rating of the movies viewed to date: Layer cake 5.5, Salt (Angelina Joli movie) 6.1, Centurion 4.9, and last night, Iron Man 2, 6.6. There has been a clamoring by the group for Brokeback Mountain but this may not be available. On the way down several groups have been moving up based on the number of Yak caravans. These animals are clearly the main source of transport for the massive amount of gear required to keep an expedition functional. On a medical note I would note that virtually everyone in the group is taking acetazolamide (diamox). This drug works through several mechanisms but clearly seems to accelerate the acclimatization process. The single most important adaptive process in ascent is an involuntary increase in ventilation. Normally the drop in carbon dioxide that occurs would suppress this process but at altitude increase ventilation persists in part due to exit of bicarbonate from the central nervous system. Diamox enhances the bicarbonate excretion from the kidney and therefore contributes to the ongoing stimulatory effect on respiration. In addition diamox has a dramatic effect in limiting Cheyne-Stokes respiration and allows sleep to be improved. One interesting fact is the outcome of my cokes and sprite sent to the ABC at 21000. Due to the extreme drop in barometric pressure combined with the severe cold, approximately 5 sodas exploded. I am happy to say there have been a few survivors. Lastly, everyone in the group is well and very strong and anxious to continue in our summit attempt. Today we will take showers and wash clothes. Let me conclude my sending my love to Robert and Kelly, my children whom I am very proud.

21 April, 2011:
Yesterday most of the team reached the North Col at 7010m. It was a bit of a gamble, as the last couple of days the wind has been very fierce. On the way to the col the team encountered strong gusts of wind up to 60km/h and snow sweeping down from all directions.... Never the less we made it up there in good health and good time! Our Sherpa's did great giving us a helping hand. Today we all went down to Base camp to have a couple of days rest, so time to shower and wash some clothing.

Greetings, Arnold Coster exp. leader