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  Summitclimb Everest Tibet 2012: Working with the Forces of Nature


May 10:

For the past few days, life at Everest Base camp has been a period of rest, recuperation and preparation. At present at EBC-Tibet we have Dan, Jack, Jan, Josette, Geoff, Beow and our dedicated team of Tibetian cook and helpers. Our capable sherpas are already in Advance Base camp, preparing the high camp.

In theory, we should be making plans for our second acclimatisation rotation to high camp i.e., camp 2 or camp 3. In reality, we have to also account for our biggest challenge- the weather. For the past few days, the weather has been typically tibetian on this side of Everest i.e., at EBC we had alternate days of a windy day, snowing next, sunny next day, cloudy, and then sunny again. At EBC we can see the magnificent view of Everest from our campsite. For these past days, on the high mountain the wind has been ferocious. We can see the wind plumes trailing the peak of Everest daily [maybe, 50-80km/hr wind].

That being the situation, we designed our own individual program for a few days. Josette and Geoff trek back up to Interim base camp then ABC, to take picture of the Rabula pass, it looks into the seldom seen Kangshung side of Everest. They came back today, happy on their mini-diversion and task accomplished. Meanwhile, Dan, Beow, Jack and Jan did daily 2-4hr trek around the EBC camp. We have trekked up a frozen river, trek to Rongbuk Monastry for a chinese meal (6hr return), climb up west and east side of EBC- up to 300-400m higher.

The learning from this few days of rest is the notion of flowing with nature and accommodating the weather. Climbing a mountain is not just wanting to do what you want to do, we need to work along side the great forces of nature and to apprerciate and to respect mother nature.

 

May 6 Dispatch from Dan Mazur:

Back in Base Camp resting. We've heard the rope fixing team has made it to Camp 2, 7500m and working toward Camp 3, 8300m.

We're biding our time in Base Camp, staying warm and staying healthy and fit. We hope to have a crack at the summit as soon as the rope fixing team gets the job done.

We've have snow several nights, but morning dawns with lots of sun and no clouds and no wind. Conditions are getting better. It's warmer.

We're all optimistic.

 

May 4 Dispatch from Dan Mazur:

We're fine and resting in Base Camp, hoping for better weather. It's snowy and windy up high. We're watching the forecast...

Earlier:

Hi this is the dispatch for 21st April.

Today we walked up from interim camp up to ABC at 6400m. It was a long and beautiful walk on the miracle highway surrounded by towering iced pilgrims and it was really impressive. We had great sunny weather and then for the last hour the snow started to come in so it made it even more realistic.

We got to our really comfortable ABC camp with a heated tent and our own sleeping tents and everybody’s comfortably tucked in. Dave and Drew decided to stay down at interim camp.

Hi this is the despatch for Everest Tibet for the 20th April.

Today we rested in interim camp at 5800m and we took it easy some of us took walks, took photos there’s a good view of Everest and basically we all relaxed and read books.

One of our members Peter decided that he would stay at Basecamp and we have two staff down there looking after Peter, one cook and one kitchen/porter guide, hopefully he’ll come up and join us soon. If not our Advanced Basecamp trekking group will be back down in a few days to rejoin him.

Thanks a lot for following our expedition and I will keep in touch. Thank You

This is the dispatch for the 19th April.

Today we took a rest day, in our camp at 5800m the weather was really nice, warm, sunny, a little bit of light winds, no snow and a couple of our members came up from base camp today to join us so we had a nice group around the dinner table, some good conversation and we plan on taking another rest day tomorrow to acclimatise.

Thanks for following our expedition

Hi this is the dispatch for 18th April. All the team hiked up to interim camp at 5800m, the weather was good and it was a long walk to the east Rongbuk glacier and a very beautiful walk.

Some of the team members decided to stay at basecamp and rest a bit and come up tomorrow.

Thanks for following our expedition
 

17 April -
Hello family and friends. This is Steve reporting from Tibet base camp.
We are sad that our friend Vladimir had to go back down last night to be checked by a doctor but happy to hear he has cleared the border and is safe in Kathmandu.
Today (17 April) was a rest day and the team is in high spirits ready to move higher to Interim Camp in the morning. The big excitement today was the arrival of the yaks and their departure with our gear for higher camps. It was sunny and windy all day with spectacular views of Everest. We can see across the west ridge to Nuptse in Nepal as well. Of course the highlight of every day is the good food and the hot showers. The wind is a bit chilly so speedy dressing at the end of the shower is mandatory.
Yesterday (16 April) we walked down the hill a bit to the Rongbuk monastery where we descended into a deep low room and the lama blessed each of us, We then went to an upper level outdoors and held a Puja ceremony, Our endeavor was blessed by the lama and we threw tsampa (barley flour) to be blown by the wind. Dave presented a large medical kit to the lama for use by the monastery and surrounding people which was greatly appreciated.
After the Puja we walked over to the tent village and drank tea and had noodle soup for lunch and spent a nice couple of hours joking with the proprietress.
The group is all watching Hunger Games on DVD now and will soon retire. Best to all our families that's all for now from Tibet base camp.
-Steve

15 April -
Well here we are at Base Camp. But I wouldn’t say it’s camping. It’s more like glamping (glamour + camping= glamping). We arrived last night at around 6pm to our well and truly established glamp site and after dumping some stuff into the tent, we came to the mess tent for what was, by far, the best meal I’ve had on this trip. The Sherpas did a sensational job and continue to do so.
After dinner we just had a social time in the mess tent before retiring for some sleep…but that sleep never really happened for me. Going from sunny Australia to the base of Everest is a bit of a temperature shift, so it was a bit tricky to sleep when it was about -5°C outside. And whoever wrote “-30°C” on my sleeping bag is definitely gonna get a slap in the face from me. So it was a difficult night, plus the diamox (alt sickness pills) still require at least two toilet breaks at night, if not more.
In the morning, what a view! Looking at the North Face of Mt Everest on a clear day. How good. It’s quite an impressive sight because if you didn’t know already…it’s a pretty big hill. Just a rest day today at Base Camp. Had a shower which was borderline disastrous. I half expected the clothes I left outside to be blown down the valley as she is blowing a gale (it was either that or leave them inside to get wet).
Things are looking good though as it’s lunch time so I am gonna have to love you and leave you. Til next time.
Whitey, Ben White from Sydney Australia

Earlier:

12 April -
We reached Tingri at 4200 metres. It is a bit windy, but everyone is fine.
Dan Mazur - expedition leader

11 April -
Hi, this is Dan Mazur writing from beautiful downtown Nyalam, Tibet, at 3700 metres. Our departure from Kathmandu on the 10th went well, and we crossed the border from Nepal into Tibet efficiently and smoothly.
We took a rest and acclimatization day in snowy Nyalam, exploring the town and surrounding hills. The weather is normal, not too cold, a mixture of light snow and light wind.
Our Tibetan hosts have been extremely friendly and very welcoming. Everyone in the team are doing well, becoming adjusted to the altitude, and very healthy so far!!!
 

Earlier:

Expedition:

Team Rosters:


Everest Tibet -
Dan Mazur - US/UK (leader)
Ms. Josette Valloton - Switzerland

Ms. Janice Smith - Australia
Jacques Puyo - France
Beow Lim - Australia

Everest Tibet Training Climb -
Steven Coffman - USA
David Howard - Australia
Dru Dubois - Usa
Badri Vijayarghavan - USA
Vladimir Shakirov - Russia

Advance Base Camp Everest Trek -
Gustavo Grillo - Brazil
Jeffrey Botz - USA
Peter Blaquiere - Australia
Daniel Ashbolt - Australia
Ben White - Australia

Everest Tibet Climbing Sherpas & Staff -
Gyalje Sherpa
Tenji Sherpa
Jangbu Sherpa
Pasang Nurbu Sherpa
Samdien - cook

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