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  Summitclimb Everest Tibet 2012: Trip Summary


Trip Summary: All of our members who planned to use bottled oxygen reached the summit with 4 expert Sherpas on 20, 26, and 27 May, 2012. This was 100%summit success. Also our advanced basecamp trekkers and North Col climbers had a lovely time. We had delicious food and excellent equipment throughout the trip.

One of the biggest highlights of our trip occurred when Doctor Janice Smith, the oldest ever Australian (age 68), reached the summit of Everest with Tenji and Gyalje Sherpa.

This was our 7th successful Everest Tibet expedition, and we send our hearty congratulations to everyone!

Another big highlight of the trip was the perfect sunny and windless weather during the last week of May.

The Tibet side of Everest is known for its stunning views of Everest, much better than the Nepal side. The Tibet side of Everest is also less crowded and less expensive than the Nepal side of Everest. Also the Tibetan culture is very exotic and changing rapidly, so now is the time to see Tibet in its original form.

Our team met in Kathmandu and began the 5 day drive up to basecamp, takingrest days and acclimatizing as they went. Some of our members enjoyed a visit to Lhasa before we all met up in Everest basecamp.

Upon arrival in our very comfortable basecamp we spent several days resting, eating delicious food, and hanging out in our comfortable heated dining tent, and adapting to the altitude, then we moved up to the "intermediate camp" which lies along the trek to advanced basecamp (ABC). The trek to ABC is also known as the Golden Highway, because of all of the beautiful mountains atop the valley walls along the trek.

Arriving in ABC we rested and did some ice and rope practice on glaciers beside the camp. After a few more days of rest, we climbed up to the North Col where camp 1 is located at 7000 metres / 23,000 feet. The climbing was all on good snow and fixed ropes. The trail was well packed out and there was no vertical climbing. There were fixed ropes on all of the steep sections. Then we walked down to basecamp for an extended rest period, eating delicious food, watching movies, relaxing by the heater in the dining tent, etcetera. For fun several of us walked down valley to explore some lower altitude Tibetan villages and enjoy the famous Tibetan hospitalitywith numerous cups of butter tea, fresh fruits and vegetables, and samplingthe local barley porridge .

During our next foray up the mountain we retraced our steps to ABC and the North Col, aand then walked all of the way up to camp 2 and slept there for a night as an acclimatization exercise. The trail to camp 2 was steep and wind blown, but there was no vertical terrain, we were able to walk all of it, aided by fixed ropes. Then we returned to advanced basecamp for 3-4 days of rest and relaxation.

Finally the weather was looking right and we worked our way back up the mountain, to intermediate camp, abc, camp 1, camp 2, and finally camp three.

On summit day we crossed over numerous steps, some with aluminum laddersattached, and finally topped out on the highest point on Earth. The weather was very clear relatively warm, and there was almost no wind. We snapped a few photos and headed down, basking in the amazement of our good fortune andwhat we had just accomplished.

 

5 June

From left Gyalje Sherpa(Climbing Sherpa), Fred Carter (Husband of Janice Smith). Dan Mazur (Expedition leader), Janice Smith oldest Australian female (68 years old) to summit Everest,, Tenji Sherpa (Climbing Sherpa) in Kathamdnu

29 May
Team back safe on the North Col.

28 May

Team back safe in camp 3.
Hi this is a message from the 7000m North Col. It’s a beautiful sunny day here, there’s one other tent here besides ours.

It’s beautiful here. The sun has been out and it’s been calm winds for about a week with summit days everyday and conditions are excellent.

We’re clearing all the camps off the mountain.

This is our lowest camp, tomorrow we’ll be removing this one and heading down to Advanced basecamp. The yaks are coming tomorrow. We’re going to pack up and go to Kathmandu.

Everyone is doing fine.Thanks for following our expedition.Goodbye.

Earlier:

This is Dan Mazur checking in 27th of May. We're in Camp 3 at 8,300 meters. It's windy and gusty up here. A lot of really large cluds. It's our third day up here. We've been supporting our team of French, Swiss, Australian, Malaysian, and American...

Jan Smith is down at Camp 3. We're really pleased about that. She's okay. She's sleeping right now. Two Sherpas brought her down Tenji and Gyalje Sherpa.  She did a fantastic job. She's really exhausted. She reached the summit about 6:30am. She turned 68 years old the 26th of May. She did an amazing job and really demonstrates what you can do when you really put your mind to it. You are never too old to climb Mt Everest I guess. At 68 years old, she's the oldest Australian, man or women, we know about. She did an amazing job.

I'd also like to take this moment to share a thought that is about Mr. Lincoln Hall who our SummitClimb team found in 2006 resting just below the summit early in the morning. Our team turned around and helped with so many other people to bring him back down. He lived another 6 years and died of cancer. What a sad way to go. But lucky he lived another 6 years after we were able to get him down from just below the summit of Everest at the "Mushroom Rock" at 8,600 meters. He was an incredible guy and we will miss him very much. We'd like to pay our respects to Lincoln Hall and what he did--an amazing Australian.

I'd also like to say our SummitClimb team in the last 2 days climbed 3 peaks [transmission garbled]...Everest Nepal side and Everest Tibet side. It was an incredible task. All of our team worked really hard. Incredible members from so many countries, along with great leaders, Sherpas, great workers and logistics and people from all walks of life and offices. We worked really hard to put a lot of people on the summit with no casualties. We couldn't have done it without all of you following us and following our progress. We're really proud of what we did. It was an incredible effort and we're so proud of everyone.

Thanks for following our expedition.

Wish us luck getting down. We're going to rest overnight up here at Camp 3 and then start down. It's still extremely dangerous to get down from here. We'll be moving slowly, carefully, walking down the mountain being careful and watching all the ropes...Hopefully in the next 2-3 days we'll be back in ABC. We'll be checking in.

Thank you very much.

28 May

Team back safe in camp 3.


27 May

Jan Smith, oldest Australian female (68 years old), joined by Tenji and Gyalje Sherpa summit!
 

26 May

Hi, today is the 26th of May. Beow Lim and Pasang Sherpa just summited! The time is 1:15 p.m. Chinese time.

Josette set off for the summit. Last night she came back because it was too cold and decided to go for it during the day. She’s up there now trying to get the summit.

Tonight Jan, Gyalje and Tenji Sherpa are going for the summit after dinner.  Today is Jan’s birthday! She is 68 years old.

Thank you, Bye.

Earlier:

Hi this is the dispatch for the 24th of May. We're up in Camp 2. It's very windy. It's evening. We just had our dinner. We used oxygen with dinner today.  Some of us took 5 hours, some took more. Josette walked from ABC all the way to Camp 2 in one day--incredible--without oxygen.  We're all together now like one big happy family...Jangbu is on the North Col acting as our radio man; he's also going to help with rescues and helping carry equipment down.

Right now it's a gorgeous sunset across the Tibetan plateau...

Ok, tomorrow our plan is to get up early and walk to Camp 3. Wish us luck and hope we get some good weather.

Thank you. Good Bye, 

Dan Mazur, Expedition Leader

 

This is a dispatch for the 22nd of May:

We're here at ABC. We rested a couple of days. It was great to have Jacques and Jangbu come down after summiting. We congratulated them and celebrated. Tomorrow, the 23rd of May, the rest of us are headed up the mountain...We're going to head up to the North Col, off onto Camp 2, Camp 3 and hopefully to the summit! We will keep you updated. Thanks for following our expedition.

Earlier:

Dan Mazur with a second dispatch, the 20th of May: Talked with Jacques and Jangbu on the phone at the North Col. They are doing fine. They reached the summit this morning at 5:30am. They will be down here on ABC tomorrow. We send all our congratulations. They did a great job.

Earlier:

Hi, this is Dan Mazur, the SummitClimb Everest Tibet leader, calling in a dispatch for the 20th of May. I’m calling from Advanced Basecamp.

On the 19th of May we had a busy day. We were in camp 2 in the morning and packed up to go, hiking up the hill. A large team next to us decided to pack up and go down the mountain. They had heard a bad weather forecast, so everyone on that team went down, including all of their staff. We decided that we would go with them because it would be the wise, prudent and conservative thing to do.

We’ve heard there is supposed to be a good weather window on the 24th and we hope to have some assistance in verifying that with wind speeds, altitude, etcetera.

Jan, Beow, Tenji, Josette, Dan, Pasang and Gyalje went down to the North Col and eventually basecamp. However, Jacques decided he wanted to continue going up. Jangbu joined him and we received a call on the radio this morning that was relayed from Gyalje on the North Col that they had reached the summit! It was hard to understand the call because of the wind speed and it seems like Jangbu seems to have laryngitis and has lost his voice. But it sounds like they reached the summit, are doing OK and on their way down.

We’ll have more updates for you as they come in. Thank you very much for following our expedition. Bye, bye

 

May 18 from Dan Mazur:This is a dispatch from the 18th of May we're at 7,600m at Camp 2. Everybody is here...Weather was good today. Had a really nice walk. The last couple of hours before we got into camp it started snowing making things a bit challenging. Thankfully we're here now. We plan to wake up early tomorrow and head to Camp 3. Thanks for following the expedition. Bye.

 

May 15: Hi, this is the 15th of May. We're in ABC. Everyone is OK. Our Sherpas are going to Camp 3 today to carry a load of oxygen and will be coming back down to ABC today. Our members are going to rest today in ABC and watch the weather and we're hoping to go the summit! Thank you. Dan

May 14 from Dan Mazur:

We're in camp. The weather is beautiful. Everyone is doing fine. We're headed up for ABC.

May 10:

For the past few days, life at Everest Base camp has been a period of rest, recuperation and preparation. At present at EBC-Tibet we have Dan, Jack, Jan, Josette, Geoff, Beow and our dedicated team of Tibetian cook and helpers. Our capable sherpas are already in Advance Base camp, preparing the high camp.

In theory, we should be making plans for our second acclimatisation rotation to high camp i.e., camp 2 or camp 3. In reality, we have to also account for our biggest challenge- the weather. For the past few days, the weather has been typically tibetian on this side of Everest i.e., at EBC we had alternate days of a windy day, snowing next, sunny next day, cloudy, and then sunny again. At EBC we can see the magnificent view of Everest from our campsite. For these past days, on the high mountain the wind has been ferocious. We can see the wind plumes trailing the peak of Everest daily [maybe, 50-80km/hr wind].

That being the situation, we designed our own individual program for a few days. Josette and Geoff trek back up to Interim base camp then ABC, to take picture of the Rabula pass, it looks into the seldom seen Kangshung side of Everest. They came back today, happy on their mini-diversion and task accomplished. Meanwhile, Dan, Beow, Jack and Jan did daily 2-4hr trek around the EBC camp. We have trekked up a frozen river, trek to Rongbuk Monastry for a chinese meal (6hr return), climb up west and east side of EBC- up to 300-400m higher.

The learning from this few days of rest is the notion of flowing with nature and accommodating the weather. Climbing a mountain is not just wanting to do what you want to do, we need to work along side the great forces of nature and to apprerciate and to respect mother nature.

 

May 6 Dispatch from Dan Mazur:

Back in Base Camp resting. We've heard the rope fixing team has made it to Camp 2, 7500m and working toward Camp 3, 8300m.

We're biding our time in Base Camp, staying warm and staying healthy and fit. We hope to have a crack at the summit as soon as the rope fixing team gets the job done.

We've have snow several nights, but morning dawns with lots of sun and no clouds and no wind. Conditions are getting better. It's warmer.

We're all optimistic.

 

May 4 Dispatch from Dan Mazur:

We're fine and resting in Base Camp, hoping for better weather. It's snowy and windy up high. We're watching the forecast...

Earlier:

Hi this is the dispatch for 21st April.

Today we walked up from interim camp up to ABC at 6400m. It was a long and beautiful walk on the miracle highway surrounded by towering iced pilgrims and it was really impressive. We had great sunny weather and then for the last hour the snow started to come in so it made it even more realistic.

We got to our really comfortable ABC camp with a heated tent and our own sleeping tents and everybody’s comfortably tucked in. Dave and Drew decided to stay down at interim camp.

Hi this is the despatch for Everest Tibet for the 20th April.

Today we rested in interim camp at 5800m and we took it easy some of us took walks, took photos there’s a good view of Everest and basically we all relaxed and read books.

One of our members Peter decided that he would stay at Basecamp and we have two staff down there looking after Peter, one cook and one kitchen/porter guide, hopefully he’ll come up and join us soon. If not our Advanced Basecamp trekking group will be back down in a few days to rejoin him.

Thanks a lot for following our expedition and I will keep in touch. Thank You

This is the dispatch for the 19th April.

Today we took a rest day, in our camp at 5800m the weather was really nice, warm, sunny, a little bit of light winds, no snow and a couple of our members came up from base camp today to join us so we had a nice group around the dinner table, some good conversation and we plan on taking another rest day tomorrow to acclimatise.

Thanks for following our expedition

Hi this is the dispatch for 18th April. All the team hiked up to interim camp at 5800m, the weather was good and it was a long walk to the east Rongbuk glacier and a very beautiful walk.

Some of the team members decided to stay at basecamp and rest a bit and come up tomorrow.

Thanks for following our expedition
 

17 April -
Hello family and friends. This is Steve reporting from Tibet base camp.
We are sad that our friend Vladimir had to go back down last night to be checked by a doctor but happy to hear he has cleared the border and is safe in Kathmandu.
Today (17 April) was a rest day and the team is in high spirits ready to move higher to Interim Camp in the morning. The big excitement today was the arrival of the yaks and their departure with our gear for higher camps. It was sunny and windy all day with spectacular views of Everest. We can see across the west ridge to Nuptse in Nepal as well. Of course the highlight of every day is the good food and the hot showers. The wind is a bit chilly so speedy dressing at the end of the shower is mandatory.
Yesterday (16 April) we walked down the hill a bit to the Rongbuk monastery where we descended into a deep low room and the lama blessed each of us, We then went to an upper level outdoors and held a Puja ceremony, Our endeavor was blessed by the lama and we threw tsampa (barley flour) to be blown by the wind. Dave presented a large medical kit to the lama for use by the monastery and surrounding people which was greatly appreciated.
After the Puja we walked over to the tent village and drank tea and had noodle soup for lunch and spent a nice couple of hours joking with the proprietress.
The group is all watching Hunger Games on DVD now and will soon retire. Best to all our families that's all for now from Tibet base camp.
-Steve

15 April -
Well here we are at Base Camp. But I wouldn’t say it’s camping. It’s more like glamping (glamour + camping= glamping). We arrived last night at around 6pm to our well and truly established glamp site and after dumping some stuff into the tent, we came to the mess tent for what was, by far, the best meal I’ve had on this trip. The Sherpas did a sensational job and continue to do so.
After dinner we just had a social time in the mess tent before retiring for some sleep…but that sleep never really happened for me. Going from sunny Australia to the base of Everest is a bit of a temperature shift, so it was a bit tricky to sleep when it was about -5°C outside. And whoever wrote “-30°C” on my sleeping bag is definitely gonna get a slap in the face from me. So it was a difficult night, plus the diamox (alt sickness pills) still require at least two toilet breaks at night, if not more.
In the morning, what a view! Looking at the North Face of Mt Everest on a clear day. How good. It’s quite an impressive sight because if you didn’t know already…it’s a pretty big hill. Just a rest day today at Base Camp. Had a shower which was borderline disastrous. I half expected the clothes I left outside to be blown down the valley as she is blowing a gale (it was either that or leave them inside to get wet).
Things are looking good though as it’s lunch time so I am gonna have to love you and leave you. Til next time.
Whitey, Ben White from Sydney Australia

Earlier:

12 April -
We reached Tingri at 4200 metres. It is a bit windy, but everyone is fine.
Dan Mazur - expedition leader

11 April -
Hi, this is Dan Mazur writing from beautiful downtown Nyalam, Tibet, at 3700 metres. Our departure from Kathmandu on the 10th went well, and we crossed the border from Nepal into Tibet efficiently and smoothly.
We took a rest and acclimatization day in snowy Nyalam, exploring the town and surrounding hills. The weather is normal, not too cold, a mixture of light snow and light wind.
Our Tibetan hosts have been extremely friendly and very welcoming. Everyone in the team are doing well, becoming adjusted to the altitude, and very healthy so far!!!
 

Earlier:

Expedition:

Team Rosters:


Everest Tibet -
Dan Mazur - US/UK (leader)
Ms. Josette Valloton - Switzerland

Ms. Janice Smith - Australia
Jacques Puyo - France
Beow Lim - Australia

Everest Tibet Training Climb -
Steven Coffman - USA
David Howard - Australia
Dru Dubois - Usa
Badri Vijayarghavan - USA
Vladimir Shakirov - Russia

Advance Base Camp Everest Trek -
Gustavo Grillo - Brazil
Jeffrey Botz - USA
Peter Blaquiere - Australia
Daniel Ashbolt - Australia
Ben White - Australia

Everest Tibet Climbing Sherpas & Staff -
Gyalje Sherpa
Tenji Sherpa
Jangbu Sherpa
Pasang Nurbu Sherpa
Samdien - cook

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