2004 IMG Everest Expedition
-- Nepal non-guided
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What makes Everest fun for us at International
Mountain Guides is to do it a little differently every year. Some years we go
to the North side, some years to the South side, and sometimes to both. Some
trips are guided, some are non-guided….we like to mix it up a bit! For 2004
we are doing a South side non-guided expedition.
For our non-guided climbs, our goal is to put
in place a great logistics package. Since 1991 we have put over 150 people on
the summits of Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, and we know that not
everyone desires the same type of expedition program. Going non-guided
provides a lot more flexibility for people to decide which strategy makes the
most sense for them. For example, how many nights will you spend at C1, C2,
and C3 before summit bids? How many acclimatization rotations will you
make? How many rest days will you need? How many nights do you spend on the
Col? Do you want a Sherpa to climb with you? Will you use oxygen or not?
Non-guided does not mean “free for all” and we
have made it clear to our members that they need to work together to form a
functional team. The IMG expedition leader will be Mark Tucker, who has led
dozens of expeditions worldwide and has been to Everest many times, including
to the summit (via the North Ridge on the Peace Climb in 1990) and to the
Hillary Step (in 2001). Mark co-led the successful 2002 IMG Everest
non-guided expedition and went to the South Col on that trip. Assisting him
in 2004 is Jason Tanguay, who went to over 28,750’ on the North Ridge on a
perfect day in 2001, only to get involved in the highest rescue in
mountaineering history and give up his summit bid a couple hundred feet from
the top to save the lives of two climbers. We are hoping that Jason gets to
ring the bell on this climb!
Tucker and Tanguay are not guiding on this
climb…we prefer to think of them as service providers. They will work closely
with the team members to help them with their individual climbing strategies
and will also work closely with Sirdar (head Sherpa) Ang Passang on the
logistics. Ang Passang has been IMG Sirdar on many Everest expeditions and
his Sherpa team is consistently one of the best on the hill! For 2004 we have
20 Sherpas attributed to making this expedition run like clockwork. This
includes 14 high altitude climbers, 5 cooks, and a mailrunner.
We look forward to sharing the story of this
expedition with you!