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  Mt. Everest 2004: Joseba Sanz


Latest News is here

Joseba Sanz. 33 years old. Born in Bilbao, Basque Country. I practice mountain climbing and athletics since my youth. I share a permit and infrastructure with Nick Nielsen (from Greenland), some Czechs and some other climbers.

This ascent is special because I will do it without oxygen.  Today, more than 1,000 people have climbed Everest, some with the help of high altitude Sherpas and professional guides, some others with more autonomous and adventurous spirits, but what really makes a difference is to climb without using supplemental oxygen.  With this climb, I would be the first Basque to climb Everest without oxygen.

Detailed program: The expedition starts in Nepal, where I will join an international group, with whom I will share the climbing permit and services at Base Camp.  From Katmandu, we will head to the Tibetan border.  We will pass Zhangmu, Nyalam and Tingri. 

Once at Base Camp, the acclimatization period starts, and so the furnishing of the high altitude camps, to finally attack the summit.

This is the detailed program, lasting more than 2 months:

Day 01: Arrival to Katmandu.

Day 02-03: Last preparations for the expedition.

Day 04: Katmandú - Tíbetan border - Zhangmu 

Day 05: Zhangmu - Nyalam.

Day 06: Nyalam - Tingri.

Day 07: Day of acclimatization in Tingri.

Day 08: Trip to Chinese Base Camp (5.400 m.).

Day 09: Stay at Chinese Base Camp.

Day 10: Stay at Chinese Base Camp.

Day 11: Trekking to intermediate Camp.

Day 12: Trekking to Advanced Base Camp (6.400 m.).

Days 13-58: Period of Acclimatization, furnishing of the high altitude camps and summit attack.

Day 59: Trekking from Advanced Base Camp to Chinese Base Camp.

Day 60: Trip to Tingri.

Day 61: Tingri-Zhangmu.

Day 62: Zhangmu - Katmandu.

Days 63-64: Stay in Katmandu.

Day 65: Flight back to Euskadi.

Relevance of the ascent: As I have said before, I will climb without the use of artificial oxygen, which makes this ascent in one of more commitment and more climbing relevance.

More than 1,100 people have gone to the summit of Everest, and until today only a around a 100 have done it without using supplemental oxygen.

These days, there are people who constantly use oxygen from 6,500 or 7,000 meters.  They get more from the ascent if everything goes without problems, but if there are delays and oxygen runs out, they will suffer more.   Besides, those who refuse to use it as an aid, leave some bottles in the last tent for medical use, to use it as a remedy in case of emergency.  The risk is to get back to it. 

The participants of commercial expeditions, where the major objective is to guarantee the summit in exchange of almost 10 million pesetas they pay, use it intensively.  On the other hand, there are every day more climbers who choose to breath the real mountain air on Everest.  A risky and committed bet.       

Summary of ascents

Joseba Sanz. Bilbao. 32 years old.  Among my ascents are:

*Himalaya (Tibet): Cho-Oyu (8.201 m)

*Argentina: Aconcagua (6.969 m).

*Alpes: Mont Blanc (4.810 m), Cervino (4.478 m), Aiguille de Bionassay (4.052 m), Gran Paradiso (4.061 m), Breithorn (4.180 m), Wildpitze (3.772 m), etc.

*Rest of Europe: Naranjo de Bulnes, Ben Nevis, etc., multiple ascents in the Pyrinees. 

*Moroco: Toubkal (4.165 m).

*Chile: Villarrica Volcano (2.840 m).

*México: Orizaba (5.675 m), Popocatepelt (5.465 m), Toluca (4.632 m).

*Guatemala: Atitlán Volcano (3.535 m), Pacaya Volcano (2.552 m).

*El Salvador: Izalco Volcano (1.950 m), Santa Ana (2.385 m).

*Nicaragua: Concepción Volcano (1.610 m).

*Irán: Damavand Volcano (5.670 m).

 

Also, I have made a great number of trekkings:

*Jamaica: trekking in the Blue Mountains.

*Cuba: trekking in the Escambray

*Pakistan: trekking in Nanga Parbat.

*Argelia: trekking in Hoggar.

*Nepal: trekking of Annapurna, trekking of Jomoson.

*Argentina:  trekking in the Perito Moreno Glacier, Fitz Roy National Park and Cerro Torre, Tierra de Fuego National Park.

*Chile: trekking in the Torres del Paine National Park.

Joseba Sanz
Basque Country
Spain

 

 

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