Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  Russian Mt Everest 2004 Expedition - Center of North Face Expedition


3/14/2004: The acclimatisation climbing to Amadablam: Update: Everest NF expedition leader Viktor Kozlov called in to report that today on 14h05 local time the first group (Pavel Shabalin, Ilyas Tukhvatullin, Andrey Mariev, Yury Ermachek and Nikolay Zhilin) successfully summited Ama Dablam. The second group is at 6200m. Today is mostly cloudy weather with fog. Things are progressing well, we are underway and feeling great about that.

3/15/2004: Viktor Kozlov just called in with a live voice dispatch: Today, at 13h30 local time, the second group (Petr Kuznetsov, Nikolay Chorniy, Vladimir Arhipov and Gleb Sokolov) has summited Ama Dablam.

The second group is en route to Base Camp. The 3d group is at 6200m now and will set out tomorrow early morning to consider summit bid. In the morning we enjoyed sunny weather condition but in the afternoon there is high cirrus we got used to seeing.

3/16/2004: The Everest North Face expedition leader Viktor Kozlov just called in with the latest from Ama Dablam: The third group (Yuri Koshelenko, Viktor Bobok and Alexey Bukinich) reached the summit of Ama Dablam at about 11.25am local time on March, 16th. The acclimatization process is completed now. Everybody is back in fine form. Tommorow we will be returning with caravan from Base Camp to Lukla and will then fly to Katmandu on March, 20. All the best, Anna mountain.ru

A combined team of Russian climbers supported by the Russian Mountaineering Federation will begin a daring and unique attempt to summit Everest. The team of 20 experienced climbers, many of the members of a team that successfully climbed Lhotse in the spring of 2001, will take off from Moscow bound for the Himalayas. The team will be attempting to summit via an unclimbed route up the center of the North Face.

The expedition leader is Victor Kozlov, and the senior coach is Nikolay Chernij. The final list of climbers was announced at a news conference at the World Trade Center on February 20th.

Given its unique route the team has made special preparations for the climb. A recon team traveled to the base of the mountain in May 2002 and began planning the route up the center of the North Face. A second recon team began a preliminary climb via the proposed route and reached a height of 6,800 meters.

The recon teams were able to gather some important information about the coming climb. When it reaches the summit the team will have climbed a distance of 4.5km and vertical altitude of 2.5km. Up to about 7,200 meters the climbers will be traversing a rocky zone filled with ice that will give way to a snowfield. The recon also puts the prospective altitude for the summit-push camp at 8,200-8,300 meters.

According to Jury Ermachek the team expects to spend March on Ama Dablam acclimatizing, then they will descend to Katmandu to rest and at the end of March or the beginning of April the team will move to the base of Everest's North Face. As the planned route is expected to take a lot of time the team will begin fixing the route right away. Much will depend on the weather so the sooner the work of the climb is begun the better.

Some of the team will likely use oxygen for the climb. Some will require oxygen below 8,000 meters some only above the height. As some of the team have not climbed 8,000-meter peaks their performance at that elevation will determine oxygen use. The team will take oxygen with them on the final summit push regardless, time will tell if it is needed or not. Ermachek also expects that given the time of the year the team will encounter severe cold, high winds and a shortage of oxygen on their ascent.

Leaders of groups: Yuri Koshelenko, Petr Kuznetsov (has the own route to Everest), Pavel Shabalin

List of Members:

* Viktor Kozlov - head of the project, Moscow;

* Nikolai Tcherny - main coach of the team, Moscow;

* Alexandr Piatnizyn - coach from Rostov-on-Don;

* Doctor - Sergei Bychkovski, Ekaterinburg;

* Camera man (to 6200m) igor Borisenko, Sergei Shakunin;

* Photo Vladimir Kuptsov;

Climbers:

1. Yuri Koshelenko (Rostov-on-Don); (he was nominated on Piolet d'or four times, the winner of the Piolet d'or for the ascent on Nuptse East)

2. Petr Kuznetsov (Krasnoyarsk); (he was on Everest twice- the first time via the classical route, the second -North Face first ascent)

3. Pavel Shabalin (Kirov); (Ak-Su - 10 climbs; first ascent Changabang, Northern face)

4. Eugeni Vinogradski (Ekaterinburg): (Everest four climbs (all with oxygen), three climbs on Cho Oyu)

5. Yuri Ermachek (Ekaterinburg); (the winner of the Piolet d'or for the ascent on Makalu, Western Face, Everest,)

6. Nikolai Zhilin (Ekaterinburg); (the winner of the Piolet d'or for the ascent on Makalu, Western Face, Khan Tengri)

7. Andrei Mariev (Togliatty); (k2, first ascent Changabang, Northern face, Nanga-Parbat)

8. Viktor Volodin (Moscow); (Everest, peak Urriellu, Marks peak, Engels peak, peak Korzhenevskoy, Communism peak, Lenin Peak)

9. Viktor Bobok (Moscow); (a high-speed ascent on peak Korzhenevskoy - 11 hours from base camp; Shkhelda in a two-men team with J.Koshelenko, Shisha Pangma)

10. Vladimir Arhipov (Krasnoyarsk); (Pobeda Peak, Khan Tengri peak, peak Korzhenevskoy, Lenina peak)

11. Gleb Sokolov (Novosibirsk); (Lenina peak, Communism Peak, peak Korzhenevskoy, high-speed solo to Khan Tengri).

12. Ilias Tukhvatullin (podolsk-Tashkent); (Everest, Ak-Su - 6 ascents, Khan Tengri, Northern face).

13. Alexey Bukinich (Sochi); 22 years - the youngest participant of the team, experience of ascents on "7-thousand" mountains.

Plans. they started Feb 25 from Moscow to Dehli. Then - acclimatisation climbing to Amadablam. Then - BC of Everest. The end of the expedition - June 2nd.

Dispatches

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.







 

 

Altitude pre-
  
acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   Cloudveil

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



  



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2003 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it