3/14/2004: The acclimatisation climbing to Amadablam: Update: Everest NF expedition
leader Viktor Kozlov called in to report that today on 14h05 local time the
first group (Pavel Shabalin, Ilyas Tukhvatullin, Andrey Mariev, Yury Ermachek
and Nikolay Zhilin) successfully summited Ama Dablam. The second group is at
6200m. Today is mostly cloudy weather with fog. Things are progressing well,
we are underway and feeling great about that.
3/15/2004: Viktor Kozlov just called in with a live voice dispatch: Today,
at 13h30 local time, the second group (Petr Kuznetsov, Nikolay Chorniy,
Vladimir Arhipov and Gleb Sokolov) has summited Ama Dablam.
The second group is en route to Base Camp. The 3d group is at 6200m now and
will set out tomorrow early morning to consider summit bid. In the morning we
enjoyed sunny weather condition but in the afternoon there is high cirrus we
got used to seeing.
3/16/2004: The Everest North Face expedition leader Viktor Kozlov just
called in with the latest from Ama Dablam: The third group (Yuri Koshelenko,
Viktor Bobok and Alexey Bukinich) reached the summit of Ama Dablam at about
11.25am local time on March, 16th. The acclimatization process is completed
now. Everybody is back in fine form. Tommorow we will be returning with
caravan from Base Camp to Lukla and will then fly to Katmandu on March, 20. All the best, Anna mountain.ru
A combined team of Russian climbers supported by
the Russian Mountaineering Federation will begin a daring and unique attempt
to summit Everest. The team of 20 experienced climbers, many of the members of
a team that successfully climbed Lhotse in the spring of 2001, will take off
from Moscow bound for the Himalayas. The team will be attempting to summit via
an unclimbed route up the center of the North Face.
The expedition leader is Victor Kozlov, and the senior coach is Nikolay
Chernij. The final list of climbers was announced at a news conference at the
World Trade Center on February 20th.
Given its unique route the team has made special preparations for the
climb. A recon team traveled to the base of the mountain in May 2002 and began
planning the route up the center of the North Face. A second recon team began
a preliminary climb via the proposed route and reached a height of 6,800
The recon teams were able to gather some important information about the
coming climb. When it reaches the summit the team will have climbed a distance
of 4.5km and vertical altitude of 2.5km. Up to about 7,200 meters the climbers
will be traversing a rocky zone filled with ice that will give way to a
snowfield. The recon also puts the prospective altitude for the summit-push
camp at 8,200-8,300 meters.
According to Jury Ermachek the team expects to spend March on Ama Dablam
acclimatizing, then they will descend to Katmandu to rest and at the end of
March or the beginning of April the team will move to the base of Everest's
North Face. As the planned route is expected to take a lot of time the team
will begin fixing the route right away. Much will depend on the weather so the
sooner the work of the climb is begun the better.
Some of the team will likely use oxygen for the climb. Some will require
oxygen below 8,000 meters some only above the height. As some of the team have
not climbed 8,000-meter peaks their performance at that elevation will
determine oxygen use. The team will take oxygen with them on the final summit
push regardless, time will tell if it is needed or not. Ermachek also expects
that given the time of the year the team will encounter severe cold, high
winds and a shortage of oxygen on their ascent.
Leaders of groups: Yuri Koshelenko, Petr Kuznetsov (has the own route to
Everest), Pavel Shabalin
List of Members:
* Viktor Kozlov - head of the project, Moscow;
* Nikolai Tcherny - main coach of the team, Moscow;
* Alexandr Piatnizyn - coach from Rostov-on-Don;
* Doctor - Sergei Bychkovski, Ekaterinburg;
* Camera man (to 6200m) igor Borisenko, Sergei Shakunin;
* Photo Vladimir Kuptsov;
1. Yuri Koshelenko (Rostov-on-Don); (he was nominated on Piolet d'or four
times, the winner of the Piolet d'or for the ascent on Nuptse East)
2. Petr Kuznetsov (Krasnoyarsk); (he was on Everest twice- the first time
via the classical route, the second -North Face first ascent)
3. Pavel Shabalin (Kirov); (Ak-Su - 10 climbs; first ascent Changabang,
4. Eugeni Vinogradski (Ekaterinburg): (Everest four climbs (all with
oxygen), three climbs on Cho Oyu)
5. Yuri Ermachek (Ekaterinburg); (the winner of the Piolet d'or for the
ascent on Makalu, Western Face, Everest,)
6. Nikolai Zhilin (Ekaterinburg); (the winner of the Piolet d'or for the
ascent on Makalu, Western Face, Khan Tengri)
7. Andrei Mariev (Togliatty); (k2, first ascent Changabang, Northern face,
8. Viktor Volodin (Moscow); (Everest, peak Urriellu, Marks peak, Engels
peak, peak Korzhenevskoy, Communism peak, Lenin Peak)
9. Viktor Bobok (Moscow); (a high-speed ascent on peak Korzhenevskoy - 11
hours from base camp; Shkhelda in a two-men team with J.Koshelenko, Shisha
10. Vladimir Arhipov (Krasnoyarsk); (Pobeda Peak, Khan Tengri peak, peak
Korzhenevskoy, Lenina peak)
11. Gleb Sokolov (Novosibirsk); (Lenina peak, Communism Peak, peak
Korzhenevskoy, high-speed solo to Khan Tengri).
12. Ilias Tukhvatullin (podolsk-Tashkent); (Everest, Ak-Su - 6 ascents,
Khan Tengri, Northern face).
13. Alexey Bukinich (Sochi); 22 years - the youngest participant of the
team, experience of ascents on "7-thousand" mountains.
Plans. they started Feb 25 from Moscow to Dehli. Then - acclimatisation
climbing to Amadablam. Then - BC of Everest. The end of the expedition - June
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