EverestNews.com readers, In a few hours, we fly away to Nepal with Jean-Christophe
this Monday April 5. Jean-Christophe is ready for his project on Makalu.
Today, I can tell you more on this ascension to this giant. We will spend two
days at Kathmandu
in order to arrange the various formalities with the authorities then we will
go by jeep towards Tibet
We will pass
the border to reach the Tibet at 5000 meters, we will pass then a collar at
5200 meters. We shall be careful with this quick ascension in altitude, always
delicate when we arrive so high by jeep. Six days (3 days by jeep and 3 of
organization with the yaks, etc)
we will leave the jeeps to begin the trekking which will enable us to join the
base camp, after 7 days of walk, under difficult conditions. This area is
still almost unexplored today, we do not have much information, we know that
the region is very wild, that there is nobody, a collar to be crossed, Langma,
at 5350 meters to reach the point where we will decide to install the base
camp at an altitude of approximately 5300 meters.
Snow may pose
problems to us to pass the collar with the yaks. The base camp will be
installed at the foot of Makalu on a virgin slope, the Northern slope which
Jean-Christophe plans to climb without oxygen and alone, it is a beautiful
objective with a maximum moral physical engagement because this is the first
time that Jean-Christophe will be completely alone on a base camp. Generally,
when he opens new ways on these very high mountains, there is always "human
life" at the base camp where the “exchange” is possible with climbers. I let
to you discover in photograph this slope wild and virgin of the Makalu.
should reach the base camp of Makalu by April 19 but there are strikes
forecasted in Nepal and I, as always, make outward journeys and returns
"express train" between France, Nepal and Tibet to carry out an illustrated
report and video from this wild area and this virgin slope before coming back,
as soon as possible, to France near my children which is always so painful to
leave behind me, thus in my timing which I manage to carry out, the strike is
a very bad new... Normally I thought to remain 3 days at the base camp in
order to try to reach the advanced base camp at 6200 meters to take images and
photographs before leaving to Kathmandu
and take my plane at the end of April.
from Nepal, Katia Lafaille
Translations by Fabienne for EverestNews.com
Lafaille, how good is he? Many think he could end up with the best ever! His
style of small expeditions, no oxygen, not much equipment, man vs mountain
reminds some of Messner.
summits include: Cho Oyu via the Polish route; A new route and solo on
Shishapangma; G2-G1 traverse and the Lhotse West Face. He also summitted
Manaslu via the North face, the first solo ascent of the mountain! But
Jean-Christophe is not limited just to the big mountain, for example he just
completed the first solo winter ascent of Pelerinage on the North face of
Peigne. This route is graded VI, 6, was first climbed by Beaudoin and Parkin
in 1992. Jean-Christophe climbed it in 5 hours ! He is the complete package...
voted him one of the best climbers in the world today and his successful
ascent of Annapurna the best climb in 2002.