Mt. Everest 2005: The summit push of 2005: The British Everest expedition has a False start on the first summit bid

Photo Tom West ©EverestNews.com

Update 5/21/2005: Howdo, Would you be so kind as to update the website with the following. I'll speak to you on the phone seeing as it's the weekend. Here's the message: False start on the first summit bid: Ian, Tom and Stuart met up with Mick on the North Col. We had a provisional weather window of at least 4 days before the wind was due to pick up. The evening radio call brought a revised forecast indicating strong winds returning much sooner. We took the painful decision to retreat and wait for a better forecast.

On top of the obvious physical challenge, the emotional and  psychological side of climbing this mountain cannot be underestimated: You get a favourable forecast, a window in the weather, anticipation, anxiety, butterflies, you set off, get to camp 1 after considerable effort only to find out on the next radio call that the weather is  likely to deteriorate, instant downer on the emotional rollercoaster.  All our mountain planning is based on weather information which is dependent on the relatively unpredictable and fickle nature of the jet stream and jet streaks. All indications at the moment point towards a late arrival of the monsoon which generally determines the best climbing weather window. This is most likely to occur at the end of May or even the beginning of June which is somewhat unusual.

Looking up at the summit this morning (it's snowing this afternoon)  the wind is blasting snow off the top, a moderate plume of cloud is streaming off the lee side. With a summit temperature of around -30 celsius and an estimated wind of around 30km/hr, the wind chill would be around -60 celsius. I think it was a wise call to come down.

More soon hopefully. That's all for now. Hope you are all well. Stuart.

Update May 20th: 7am (5/19/05): Firstly, a big thanks to Matt Reedi (I hope I have spelt it correctly) for the barrel of goodies. Application has been made to the Guinness book of records for the highest ever watermelon...

Matt, Dan and Tim will return today after a night spent on the North

Col and a recce up the North ridge to 7500m.

This morning the weather forecast for the next 5 days indicates lower winds so after the telephone call, Tom, Ian and Stuart are moving up to the North Col to meet up with Mick.

Tomorrow they will go to Camp 2 (7700m) and make a summit attempt from there. All being well they will summit on the 22nd.

(It takes 4hrs from ABC to C1 and 4-5 hrs from C1 to C2, there they

will eat, drink and sleep. Next day they will climb to Camp 3. This is

more of a staging post than a real camp, they will try to rest, eat and drink but will leave C3 around 10pm for a 8-10hr climb to the summit. They will try to descend as far as they can after summiting but at least to C2.)

The team are made up of:

Non climbing members:

Dr. John Semple

Robbie the Chef

Climbing Sherpas:

Phanden Sherpa

Mingma Sherpa

Pasang Sherpa

Jangbu Sherpa

Climbers:

Tom Richardson

Ian Wade

Matt Sharman

Dan Short

Mick Bromley

Tim Mosedale

Ross Ash-Cregan

Stuart Holmes

All the British climbers are from or have strong links with Keswick in

the Lake District, Northern England. They are a private, non commercial, group of friends. They do not have much in the way of

technology so updates are by satellite phone and the occasional email courtesy of the Norwegians.

Updates

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