the last ladder in just
before the North Col. The ridge to the higher camps is visible in the
upper left of the photo. The four gentlemen in the upper left are my
outstanding sherpa staff - Lakpa, Dangima, Tsering, and Dorje - and this
couldn't happen without their support. Even though our team members are
all pulling their share of the load carrying. We just aren't having the
Sherpa's carry nearly everything like most teams.
We're at ABC. Been here for
several days now. It's very high, over 21,000ft, and we plan to spend most of
the expedition here. It took two long days to trek here from base camp. The
winds are always very high and our tents are reinforced with heavy webbing
nets, so they don't blow away - even with us inside!
I made two consecutive trips
to the North Col (C1) and I must admit it's a long haul to the first camp at
23k ft. I was the first westerner to arrive at the No Col this season, and
the Sherpas were excited about it. Loads are really heavy up here!
Regardless of what's being nobody is in top
position on the mountain. We just finished paying rope and ladders to the No
Col Yesterday, and a few of the expeditions claimed their property. Right now,
all the teams are busy stocking C1 and that's hardly putting yourself in 1st
place. Roughly half of the teams have arrived at ABC.
The rest of the guys on the
team are making their first trip to C1 today. They are in for some surprises.
Vertical jugging on hard water ice with full loads! Sustained slopes of 40-65
degrees, with solid blue glacier ice under foot... Only a few ladders this
season, and they do make it interesting at times.
I'm resting today and
catching up on business. I put my laptop in the sun for a while and it
finally worked! It's been too cold for it to boot up. Hence the delayed
updates to EverestNews.com
Tomorrow, I plan to haul
another load to C1. Then, I'll move up to C1 and spend at least 2-3 nights.
I plan to establish C2 (24,700ft) before coming down.
The team is looking strong
and has been doing very well with the altitude. Everyone has had their share
of headaches and nasty feelings, but that's what we all signed up for. The
pains, difficulties, and uncertainties are what make it so much more elusive
than other sports. Why we do it? That's a subject for a dinner party and
some good food.
That's the scoop for the
climb thus far.
From Mt. Everest North Side ABC,
Brook Alongi - Team Leader
Team Ogawa 2005
Ogawa Mountain Adventures
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.