Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  Mt. Everest 2005: Czech Expedition to attempt the Hornbein Couloir: Now this is climbing


Like many expeditions they are using a Regional BGAN to send updates with a laptop

Update: And we have a rest day again, and that gives us the time to write our logs. Today we washed ourselves and our clothing. It seems one could not do anything the whole day long, just eat and read...

Monday 04.25: We went to sleep on Sunday, not knowing what's going to happen next day, but the morning sun melted the snow in BC and we got ready. Kumar made us breakfast and around 10am we departed for C0. We are all in good condition, so it took about 2-2.5 hours on the moraine, glacier and debris. In our supply camp (made of 3 tents), we have stored our gear. We load it in and continue about 500m higher to the C0. Kumar baked "Chapati" local bread and we eat it for lunch. Ivan also cooked Knorr noodle soup for lunch ( we take it everywhere with us). As the last course of our lunch we have a coffee "Nescafe 3v1" It is so good, that even Simon is drinking it, and he doesn't drink coffee at all. Last time when we found the place for C0, we built one tent. Today we have to bring our sleeping stuff, food, cooking items and one more tent. We will spend the night, so tomorrow the boys will start to work the mountain face. In order to do that we also have to bring ropes, hooks, screws and snow anchors. Each of us has to carry one 100m rope and either a tent or food and cooking items. On the top of that, we carry personal items. Fully loaded like this, we are snorting and making our way up to C0. We marked the route on the glacier well last time, but we did not have enough bamboo sticks, so some parts we have to go based on our memory. We have already told you that it is snowing every day and it is visible on the glacier. Meanwhile, in the Base Camp under the classic route there are about 400 people (some ready to attempt the summit, others are sherpas and porters), we are completely alone here. One day of rest and the route we have marked is no longer visible. There are countless cracks on the glacier and some places are even ghostly. There is a lot of work to do to finish the markings of the route to C0. The ascent takes us about 3 hours, during which we discover a lots of cracks. We build a second tent, separate the food and cook. We are getting ready to get into the tents. But the sun comes out and gives an opportunity for some great evening photographs. All together, we go to assess the beginnings of the climb to the face, but it gets really cold, and we have to return to our tents.

Tuesday 04.26: We separate into 2 groups. Attack group - Ivan, Simon and Pepino - will fix the way to C1. The Supporting Group - Petr, Lucka, Sona - will make one more turn around with a load from the supply camp. Our task did not take as much time as fixing the route did, so we all go to the base of the mountain face. Everyone takes at least one rope and snow anchors etc. The boys drag it onto the face far enough, so that we can at least help out a bit. 2m from the face we realize that one of the choices to start the ascent is unrealistic. We had not seen the deep rip off. The second variant had an overhang accession. Based on the maps and drawings from previous expeditions, they chose to start even more to the left. But that spot is very dangerous, it is an accumulating channel for all the stones falling down the face. The boys start to climb and the supporting group gets back to carefully mark the big cracks, turns and changes of direction, to make our route as clear and secure as possible. We expect that as spring progresses, the cracks will get bigger. Simply, nobody will walk alone on the glacier. This helps to prevent people from slipping into the cracks, where nobody would know about it. Normally the descent would take about 70min, but we are so thorough with our work that it takes us about 3 hours. The sun is shinning on the drum created by the north face of Everest, the pillars of the North saddle, and the ChangTse wall, and it is hot like a sauna. Sometimes we look back to see if the boys are on the face, but so far nothing. According to the plan we should see them by now. It is weird, and we get to know what is happening on the radio set.

We finally marked all the way to supply camp. We pack one tent, so there will be only one left here and we change our skelet boots for the trek boots. We cook some tea and soup. The route from C0 to BC is about 5 hours and the way back takes us at least 3 hours. And if you have done all the work on the mountain, you will not have much energy left.

We put tea into thermoses, since we can get water here from the glacier and cooking is faster. In C0 we have to melt the snow for water. We add all the dishes and everything we need in C1. We are loaded like a yak's caravan. Those 500 elevation meters in front of us will be painful. We are ready to start to ascent at about 3 pm. We progress very slowly, due to the loads on our backs. We still watch the markings, and if need to we adjust them again, even if it is quiet an ordeal to kneel down with the load to correct the marking and then get back up....

During this trip we get sunshine, but also wind and snow- the weather is showing what it can do. In 3 hours we are arrive at our tents. The boys are already in. We found out that to climb during the sunny weather is quiet dangerous. The sun melting the snow/ice releases boulders in the north face (and we did not expect this). Boys made it over the overhanging ascent, fixed it and continued to climb. Then several falling boulders passed them very closely. If these would hit someone, even a helmet would not be useful. So they left with a plan that early morning would be better to continue. We built the 3rd tent to have more living space. We cooked some food and got into our sleeping bags.

Wednesday 04.27: The boys (attack group) got up at 4:30 am and cooked some mush or soup to get some energy. Hot tea gets cold here even if it is stored in the best thermos. They dressed up as warm as possible and they were on their way by 5:30am. The supporting group did a lot of work yesterday, so they have a break today and get up with sun (sleep in). In the meantime, the boys made progress on the mountain. Progress didn't go as fast as they thought it would, the face is not giving it a way this year. We have read descriptions from previous ascents, when the whole channel was pleasantly firm and climbers could slide down on their butts. This year it is pure water ice, so the whole day the boys are standing on the front of their crampons. Kicking a step in the ice to be able to rest is 10 min work. Even under these conditions they manage to fix about 400m of the route. Then the heat starts again and they have to get off the wall. We have tea and soup ready for them. All of us go back to BC. Even if it is far from the wall, it is the last place where there is any grass and it is worth it for us to get there to relax. Our other camps are on the glacier and one has to be in constant movement. We get back to the BC in about 3-4 hours.

Dispatches

 

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
  
CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
  
Headlamps

   Hestra
  
Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
  
Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
  
Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
  
Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



Send email to  • Copyright© 1998-2014  EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it