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Everest May 30th, 2005 and people were
summiting |
- We have spent 42 days in
Base Camp
- During that time we have moved 10x under the mountain face (to the C0 and
back)
- The distance we have walked on the moraine (pile of stones dumped on ice,
which constantly moves) was about 200 km
- We have worked on the mountain face 6x (fixing the route, bringing up gear
and taking it down)
- We have gradually brought up to the mountain face and prepare for fixing
about 1800 m of rope.
- From the BC to the face we have brought up 300 kg of gear (tents,
cookers-dishes and gas tanks, food, and security gear - already mentioned
ropes, 40 snap hooks, 25 snow anchors, 30 screws, 50 m of flat hooks)
- When marking the route to supply camp (since we were only one expedition) we
built 50 markers to show us the route. Each of them was at least half of meter
tall.
- On the glacier we have dedicated 4 trips to mark the cracks and the right
direction. We have used about 60 bamboo sticks and many stickers.
- It is possible to make it from Chinese BC to our BC in about 2 - 2.5 hours
(if one is in walking shape). In April, when we were moving to our BC, yakmen
managed to make the route so difficult that we needed 2 days to make the
journey and we had to stay over the night on the route!!!
- route from Katmandu to our BC took us 18 (!!!) days, the same way back took
2 days. The way there was affected by many factors: Maoist strike, which
blocked all exits from KTM, Lucka, who got bitten by a dog in Tingri and we
had to solve the possibility of rabies, waiting for yaks, which takes 3 days
to get them from a far, but not to far, village, although there is about 150
yaks on the spot available...
- Lama walked with us for 2 days from the monastery Rhongbuk to the BC helped
us build BC and the next day he performed "puja" (ceremony to reconcile with
gods). During the ritual the wind blew so strong that it almost took down
corten. Lama was happy saying that the nature helps to spread the word of
prayer to all directions. The problem was that the wind failed to stop and it
kept blowing for another month and half.
- We have experienced an extremely unfavorable season. During the whole stay
(aside from the last 5 days) we could not wear sandals and t-shirts in BC at
all. The average night temperature outside was -20?C and in tents it was -9?C.
When the weather was showing off, the temperature outside was -25?C and inside
-14?C.
- during the expedition we have eaten everything we brought with us from the
Czech Republic: 20 kg of salami, 8 kg of ham (both made by Maso Plana), 100
packs of dry meat Jerky, 15 kg of chocolate (Margot, Deli and milk chocolate),
6 kg of great coffee Classic 3v1, 1,5 kg classic Nescafe and 6,5 kg dark
chocolate (all of course Nestle), 200 packs of instant soups (10 minutes to
make), 120 soups prepared already in cups, 200 noodles and sauce Fantasia
(simply instant noodles of all kind), 70 sauces for rice and pasta, about 200
liters of bullion, 5 kg of mashed potatoes (all goodies from Knorr)
- We also bought in Katmandu and consumed on the expedition: 40 cans of fish,
12 cans of sausages, 12 cans of luncheon meat, 12 big cans of stewed fruits,
10 ketchup bottles, 4 bottles of chili sauce, 2 big mustards, 10 kg hard
cheese, 6 kg of butter, 330 eggs, 48 kg sugar, 10 kg salt, 35 kg of flour, 12
kg of dry milk, 10 kg of pasta, 30 kg of rice, 30 kg of potatoes, 9 kg of dalu
(lentil, similar to Dal-bat rice), 10 jars of honey, 8 marmalade jars, 5 kg of
juice, 18 liters of oil, 5 kg corn of "popcorn"
- While waiting for weather, the trio Ivan, Petr a Simon played all together
650 "Marias" card games, but the final winning was only 10 Czech Crowns (while
winnings during the games went as high as 80 Kc)
- Sona solved 500 crossword puzzles and with 10 of them she had help from
other members of expedition
- All together we had in BC 15 books, and everyone read about half of them (
Ex: Hitchhikers guide to galaxy, Foucoult's pendulum, Soffie's world, Pompey,
The Firm ...)
- We also witnessed a very unique event, the landing of a helicopter on the
top of Mount Everest!!! An outstanding French pilot Didier Delsalle landed on
the top of Everest and spent 2 minutes and then he managed to get back down!!!
Look for more info here:
http://www.everestnews.com/stories2005/everestcopter05282005.htm
- We have with us one camera Cannon, 3 classic cameras and 3 digital cameras
(also mostly Cannon). We have used 40 films (mostly slides) and about 800
digital pictures... Simon have made about 50 minutes of movie shots...
- During our work we have used 3 radios transmitters (borrowed from CHS), 2
notebooks, Iridium satellite phone and transmitter Bgan. All these were
charged by solar panels or Honda generator, where we used 60 liters of gas and
some oil too.
- in the end of our expedition we have removed from the mountain all the tents
and sleeping items, cookers (including empty gas tanks), our trash, but also
all the ropes, anchors, screws, and all other security gear. A week after we
left the mountain face, the snow covered out foot steps, and nobody could tell
that we or anyone else climbed there this season. We took the trash to the
Chinese BC and all the other items to Katmandu. We will take the battery with
us to the Czech Republic.
 Dispatches
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Millet One
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
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Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
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Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here. |
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A cold
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
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steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
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upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
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See more here. |
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