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  Mt. Everest 2005: Czech Hornbein Couloir Recap!


Everest May 30th, 2005 and people were summiting

- We have spent 42 days in Base Camp
- During that time we have moved 10x under the mountain face (to the C0 and back)
- The distance we have walked on the moraine (pile of stones dumped on ice, which constantly moves) was about 200 km
- We have worked on the mountain face 6x (fixing the route, bringing up gear and taking it down)
- We have gradually brought up to the mountain face and prepare for fixing about 1800 m of rope.
- From the BC to the face we have brought up 300 kg of gear (tents, cookers-dishes and gas tanks, food, and security gear - already mentioned ropes, 40 snap hooks, 25 snow anchors, 30 screws, 50 m of flat hooks)
- When marking the route to supply camp (since we were only one expedition) we built 50 markers to show us the route. Each of them was at least half of meter tall.
- On the glacier we have dedicated 4 trips to mark the cracks and the right direction. We have used about 60 bamboo sticks and many stickers.
- It is possible to make it from Chinese BC to our BC in about 2 - 2.5 hours (if one is in walking shape). In April, when we were moving to our BC, yakmen managed to make the route so difficult that we needed 2 days to make the journey and we had to stay over the night on the route!!!
- route from Katmandu to our BC took us 18 (!!!) days, the same way back took 2 days. The way there was affected by many factors: Maoist strike, which blocked all exits from KTM, Lucka, who got bitten by a dog in Tingri and we had to solve the possibility of rabies, waiting for yaks, which takes 3 days to get them from a far, but not to far, village, although there is about 150 yaks on the spot available...
- Lama walked with us for 2 days from the monastery Rhongbuk to the BC helped us build BC and the next day he performed "puja" (ceremony to reconcile with gods). During the ritual the wind blew so strong that it almost took down corten. Lama was happy saying that the nature helps to spread the word of prayer to all directions. The problem was that the wind failed to stop and it kept blowing for another month and half.
- We have experienced an extremely unfavorable season. During the whole stay (aside from the last 5 days) we could not wear sandals and t-shirts in BC at all. The average night temperature outside was -20?C and in tents it was -9?C. When the weather was showing off, the temperature outside was -25?C and inside -14?C.
- during the expedition we have eaten everything we brought with us from the Czech Republic: 20 kg of salami, 8 kg of ham (both made by Maso Plana), 100 packs of dry meat Jerky, 15 kg of chocolate (Margot, Deli and milk chocolate), 6 kg of great coffee Classic 3v1, 1,5 kg classic Nescafe and 6,5 kg dark chocolate (all of course Nestle), 200 packs of instant soups (10 minutes to make), 120 soups prepared already in cups, 200 noodles and sauce Fantasia (simply instant noodles of all kind), 70 sauces for rice and pasta, about 200 liters of bullion, 5 kg of mashed potatoes (all goodies from Knorr)
- We also bought in Katmandu and consumed on the expedition: 40 cans of fish, 12 cans of sausages, 12 cans of luncheon meat, 12 big cans of stewed fruits, 10 ketchup bottles, 4 bottles of chili sauce, 2 big mustards, 10 kg hard cheese, 6 kg of butter, 330 eggs, 48 kg sugar, 10 kg salt, 35 kg of flour, 12 kg of dry milk, 10 kg of pasta, 30 kg of rice, 30 kg of potatoes, 9 kg of dalu (lentil, similar to Dal-bat rice), 10 jars of honey, 8 marmalade jars, 5 kg of juice, 18 liters of oil, 5 kg corn of "popcorn"
- While waiting for weather, the trio Ivan, Petr a Simon played all together 650 "Marias" card games, but the final winning was only 10 Czech Crowns (while winnings during the games went as high as 80 Kc)
- Sona solved 500 crossword puzzles and with 10 of them she had help from other members of expedition
- All together we had in BC 15 books, and everyone read about half of them ( Ex: Hitchhikers guide to galaxy, Foucoult's pendulum, Soffie's world, Pompey, The Firm ...)
- We also witnessed a very unique event, the landing of a helicopter on the top of Mount Everest!!! An outstanding French pilot Didier Delsalle landed on the top of Everest and spent 2 minutes and then he managed to get back down!!! Look for more info here: http://www.everestnews.com/stories2005/everestcopter05282005.htm 
- We have with us one camera Cannon, 3 classic cameras and 3 digital cameras (also mostly Cannon). We have used 40 films (mostly slides) and about 800 digital pictures... Simon have made about 50 minutes of movie shots...
- During our work we have used 3 radios transmitters (borrowed from CHS), 2 notebooks, Iridium satellite phone and transmitter Bgan. All these were charged by solar panels or Honda generator, where we used 60 liters of gas and some oil too.
- in the end of our expedition we have removed from the mountain all the tents and sleeping items, cookers (including empty gas tanks), our trash, but also all the ropes, anchors, screws, and all other security gear. A week after we left the mountain face, the snow covered out foot steps, and nobody could tell that we or anyone else climbed there this season. We took the trash to the Chinese BC and all the other items to Katmandu. We will take the battery with us to the Czech Republic.

 

Dispatches

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

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