Mt. Everest 2005: "The story of my Everest summit." by Jocelyn Dufour

After having been back in Kathmandu, I thought it was time to write the story of my Everest summit. Here it is.

After getting reports that the weather would be favorable on the 20th and 21st of May, and also that the fixed rope would get fixed higher up in the same time. Nick and I decided to give it a go and started early on May 19th, our objective was our camp at 7500m, skipping camp 1 on the North Col, since we were already behind to catch this weather window or I should say small opening in the weather so far inclement. The next day (20th May), our plan was to make it to 8300m from 7500m. Unfortunately, we were only at 7850m when the weather turned bad, wind and blizzard.  We took shelter and waited to see what the weather would do.  I this point, Nick and I were carrying only essentials, Bibler tent, gas stove and mattress, as well as our oxygen for the summit.

At about 7 pm, the wind die down and we decided to try for the summit from our current position (7850m). Matthew, another member of Monterosa expedition, being in a tent higher at 7900m already, decided to join our effort.  Nick and I left at 8 PM and decided to go very light, leaving our Bibler tent behind, Matthew was bringing a stove. I reached camp 3 (8300m) close to 1 AM, so far not using oxygen.  Just short of reaching camp 3, Nick notified me that he was turning back, and Matthew was quite a bit behind.  After taking some time to think on whether to continue or not, I decided to give it a shot and go as far as possible.  It was not until 3 AM that I was finally ready with the oxygen and started climbing up towards the ridge.  It was the first time I was climbing with the benefit of oxygen and I felt a lot of additional power and speed going up. I quickly gained the ridge and caught up with other climbers. I had to wait about 40 min at the 2nd step and then caught up with the rope fixing effort at the 3rd step.  I waited patiently behind the Sherpas as the last bit of fixing on the summit pyramid was achieved.  Good work by the Sherpas.  The final corniced ridge was rapidly overcome (no rope necessary there). I found myself alone on top of Everest (for only 5-10 min, until the following climbers came to join me). I summited at 10:15 AM (Nepal time).  After only 25 min, I started my descent, I ran out of oxygen at the top of the 2nd step, which slowed down my descent overall, but helped me with better vision. I came down to camp 3 (8300m) and the weather had turned bad again. I decided to wait in a tent and see what the weather would do. After a few hours, the weather had not improved.  I was joined then by climber and Sherpa and was invited to spend the night if it was necessary. I ended up sharing a tent with two other Sherpas and one sleeping bag (I thank their hospitality).  The next morning, the weather was a lot better and I made it down to camp 1 (7000m).  I knew then I was home free.  The next morning I made it to ABC in the morning to the joy of my teammates.

Jocelyn Dufour

Calgary, Canada

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A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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