Marcin Miotk - last summit
climber Marcin Miotk (32), who finished the Annapurna South Face Expedition on
May 18 moved to Everest North ABC at 6400 m on May 22 waiting together with
the other climbers for good weather.
Miotk is reporting from Kathmandu: "I summited Everest on June 5th at 14.30
Nepal time - NO OXYGEN (First Polish), SOLO, NO SHERPA, WITH LIMITED GEAR
NOT LEAST: I summited probably the last this Spring Season just after some
clients and Sherpas of Himex. This was reward for patience attitude in the
base camp. Wait and relax was my mantra. Your day will come."
OXYGEN (First Polish) - From my early planning Everest attempt only this
option was under consideration. Why? Although Polish climbers have done great
things on Everest (1st winter ascent, new route, 3rd woman ascent) - all have
been with oxygen. Can not polish climb Everest w/o O2?? Yes - they can - they
just have to try. They tried in the past and some tries finished drama -
Krzysztof Liszewski died in 2003 on the North Side.
the weather window in the base camp I've had many times the temptation to buy
oxygen. But it would be a trap - when you buy you would use it. This was
mental war in my brain. I won. Now was the stage of moving from planning to
execute with excellence.
2. SOLO - I
would not to create my own solo term - I just want to describe what I did. I
started totally alone from ABC, went all distances between camps alone, slept
alone in the tents - sum up doing all work ABC-Summit-ABC by myself. On my way
I've met limited number of climbers as my ascent was in the last days of
season (for example on my way down I did not met anybody going up, I did not
met anybody on Second Step) Was it solo or not? This was my solo as much as I
can and as much environment affords me.
Editorial Note: He went up
the Normal route, with fixed line put in by Sherpas... Therefore, not a TRUE
SOLO credit by EverestNews.com. However, many define SOLO deferent ways.
SHERPA - Many times people are climbing w/o O2, but army of friends
accompanies them. Good, but is not pure ascent in my eyes. W/o O2 is great,
but this is still kind of guided ascent.
Editorial Note: He went up
the Normal route, with fixed line put in by Sherpas...
LIMITED GEAR – Now let’s move to a short description of my ascent and the
subtitle will become clearer. I started originally my summit push on May 29
aiming to summit on June1. But on May 31 me and my friends from Austria were
stopped at 7900 for a night due to extremely strong wind. It was sure that the
next day we will not summit. I had to decide: go up or….. give up. But for me
there was third option: I decided to went down to ABC, rest 2 days and make
second summit push. 2 summit pushes in one week?? People said that I’m crazy,
this is so energy-burning task, that my body cannot afford etc.. So on June 3,
afternoon I went up totally alone directly from ABC to Camp 2, where I
discovered that my tent is robbed. Windstopper trousers, windstopper blouse,
sleeping bag, gloves, socks and very important: good head-lamp.
shocked. Before this accident I lost in Camp I a new Gore-Tex, what was
painful, but not tragedy. This robbery makes me angry, but not make me
thinking about giving up. I just took sleeping bag from neighboring tent,
which of course I give back in the morning. The most painful was lack of
head-lamp. Lack of windstopper wearing was important, but I felt it is warm
enough to be able to make summit push in what I currently have. Next day I
moved up to Camp 3 in windy, but reasonable weather. There I located in famous
Indian Army tent in which my Austrian friend left me before the sleeping bag.
Lucky me. I decided to start summit push in the morning – lack of head-lamp
and good wearing prevails. I left the tent at 5.30 I went up. All the way I
was solo, no people on second step. Above second steps I’ve met many people
going down and advising me turn down as wind is to high, but I head up even
faster. I looks fanny : me, alone with no rucksack, very thin wearing and many
3-people groups. Each group was in the mask, big rucksacks with bottles of
oxygen. Goliat and David. The closer summit I was, the less windy was. I
reached the summit on 14.30, I’ve made some photos, but to make some
reasonable alone was difficult to me. I started going down ,
5. SHERPA –
WHERE IS YOUR HONOR??
tired, but not existed. Exactly when getting dark reached Camp 3 and was happy
about warm sleeping bag. I opened my tent and could not sat anything – my tent
was almost empty inside – somebody during the day have stolen sleeping bag,
stove, all medicines!!, and all what seems any value. At 8300!, during summit
push!!. Fortunately I was strong mind at this moment, so I organized a new
sleeping bag, stove from Sherpas who were at hat time in Camp3 (probably the
same Sherpas who have stolen this during the day). Would you guess; only 6-8
tent were in Camp3, nobody was moving up the mountain as season finished!
There was no anonymous stealing; anonymous would be if 50-60 tents were
located in Camp3. Who could steal this? Some tourists from Vegas? Clients, who
have limited power? Or maybe some Sherpas –nice guys from Nepal, always
smiling, very helpful,. Who? Ok, finish with jokes. The Sherpas lost his honor
last years. They are so dare that you cannot imagine. Who will steal more, who
will steal more precious thing – this is what Sherpas are talking about
playing card in the base camp. No shame, no ethics – only money counts.
Robbery I was experienced at Camp 3 was simply robbery on my life. If I would
be a little more tired I would probably enter the tent and next season my body
would be found there. Serious. The same with the frostbites: fortunately I did
not take any medicine from summit push till today, but what if I would have a
little frostbite, which could be touched by some pills. Pills were stolen,
sorry, your finger would be save, but you had no pills – we had to cut you
toe, man. Sorry. Etc. Sherpas are very good in 98% of population. But
remaining 2% makes me thinking about them in very dark colors without any
respect. Why? Because they tolerate these bad 2%. They are not aware what
behavior they represent.
like to know how many other climber experience similar story? What we can do
together. Most of the Sherpas are hired big agencies. They did not stolen
things each other. They hunt on small independent climbers. Big agencies did
not see the problem, as the problem does not touch them. But they employs
Sherpas for whom they should be responsible for.
Sum up, I
would like to to lave the topic dying. I summated and I will probably not
visit Everest North Side, but I’m interest in life of other climbers. What we
can do together to change this behavior, to ensure tents will not become from
steal or will be not necessary to keep them under 220 volt,
Miotk (32) has climbed Shisha Pangma Middle (1999), Cho Oyu (2003) and Tien-Shan
range giants: Chan Tengri - (2002), Pobeda Peak Main Summit (2004).
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.