Update June 8th:
Let me briefly describe my 40
days in ABC. -
I arrived on April 25 and
decided to wait for the weather window 6500m high. I did not see any benefit
going to Chinese BC. It is as filthy place as ABC only a little bit lower. I
went up on May 2, and carried my gear to 7700m. Storm forced me down couple
Next time I went up ( started
in the evening and walked in the night) on May 14, Storm again pushed me back
Each time I was ready to go
for the top, from Cho Oyu I was perfectly acclimatized.
The weather window on May 21,
22 was too short and the predicted temperature on the summit too low for no
oxygen ascent. I did not participate in the effort on these days. Majority of
people who came back were severely frostbitten.
The last time I left for the
high ground on May 29 at 2am Nepali time. Each time I avoided North Col Camp
and I did not want to wait in the line and be slow. I made it to Camp 2 where
I spent comfortable night. Next day, I packed my only tent and move it higher
- to 8100m. I found a bit sheltered spot and pitched my little Bibler there.
Spent night and day and wanted to walk to the summit the next night. Before I
left, Brazilian climber asked me if he can stay in my tent, there were two of
his Sherpas and it was too crowded in the tent next door. I had no problem.
I started to walk about 2
hours before sunset and made it to 8300m place with several tents. Wind picked
up and I was advised to find a tent, that the wind might come down and we walk
to the summit later that night. I crawled in the tent, in the morning I saw I
am in the tent of Indian Air Force. Here I spent the second night above 8000m
without sleeping bag - I left one in Camp 2. Wind did not come down but I
decided to wait for another night.
Around midnight on June 2, I
left along with the others for the summit. Wind was strong and it did not take
me long time to realize my situation. Without oxygen bottle I was way too slow
to get warm and survive without major frostbites. After couple hours I
returned to the tent. For about 5 hours I was trying to evaluate my situation.
I could wait for another night and try again. At the same time, there was no
indication the wind would ease down. Then I decided to give up and return.
On my way down, I collected
my belongings. Tent, sleeping bag, cooking gear. I was able to walk down by
myself, clean the mountain without any help. For some, it might not be enough.
I sure did not win but my retreat has been honorable.
Next day, I walked down to
Chinese Base Camp, following day, rode to Nepali border and on June 5 to
Kathmandu. In Chinese Base Camp I did notice that even I have been careful I
still got frostbites on my toes. These were treated in Kathmandu and it will
take about 4-6 weeks to fully recover.
So this is my story, in a few
days I will write and comment on some issues re. climbing Everest generally,
base camp, fix ropes and people I have met under Everest.
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